Well its that time of year . Time to get back on the Speedster project. I have not done much since last November-March shop working season. I have a few pictures of fitting the final trim strip around the bottom of the body, I installed the 2 inch dropped rear cross member. I thought that would go quickly, but I was wrong again. There are a lot of rivets in that darn thing. Then after installing the rear cross member, I found out the rear spring no longer fit and would hit the frame rails at both ends. So I had to cut off some of the second and third leaf from the top to get clearance back again. I also fabricated a rear support bracket for the KC Warford trans. Since I will be using a 1919 engine I wanted to add a little support. It took weeks of designing, testing, a long forum discussion, but I am happy with the way it works. I also got the body back from the upholstery shop (it only took 8 months) Ill add pictures of the upholstery later. So first thing on the agenda is to get the 5 Disteel wheels fitted with tires. Two of the wheels need a little attention because they are a little too sharp at the bead for my liking. So I will be fitting some of the rim-saver beads to those two wheels. Ill take pics and post photos later of that project. Then I have to do final hook up on the brakes and install the dual exhaust system and "Taylor Loudspeaker" muffler (more on that later) So for now Ill just post a link to the project so far for those who have not seen it or are not sick of it by now (this is the 3rd year) and pics of things already done.
This is my inspiration photo, and the closest pic I have found yet to my body.
This is how the body looked before I installed the lower body trim
The next 15 pics are of making and installing the lower body trim.
The next pictures are installing the 2 inch dropped cross member.
The next group of pics is of the KC Warford trans mount
While installing the Warford support cross member bar, I also installed a second bar above the rear running board brace that was cut off and left as a frame cross member. I installed a short piece of fan belt held in place by three small brass stove bolts. The fan belt is there to act as an "anti-rattle" My new cross bar and the rear running board bracket are not bolted together. The just rub on each other as the frame flexes. Probably over kill, but it looks neat.
These last pics are of the engine in mock-up with the Rajo 4valve head, Columbo cross drive mag, and a few other accys in place. After the chassis is finished and body final install completed, I hope to have time to finish the engine before Chickasha in March ... so much to do, so little time to do it ... have fun and be safe ... Donnie Brown ...
Nice work Donnie. It's great to see the progress.
Keep posting, Donnie, I'm inspired!!
Awesome project. Thank you for the pics and write up.
Oh, one of my favorite times of year. Always look forward to this. Keep it up, great job!
Here is the upholstery. The leather color is "aged brandy" It matches the mahogany dash and steering wheel very good.
This looks fantastic!
How long did it take you to do that whole seat/cowl combo metal body piece? I would love to do that for mine but not sure if I could handle it... haha
John, The body is an original 1920s era body. I just had to beat a few hundred dents out of it and re-wood it. I have a lot of hours in it. I work on the speedster aprox 3-4 months out of the year. I piddle on it some the rest of the year or buy things to use in the winter shop work season. This is the third year. If you did not look at the link of last years work at the top of this thread, there is a photo of the body in as found condition in the link. Other than some experience in wood working and welding, Im just "faking it" and learning as I go. So just get an extra frame to build on and go for it. have fun and be safe ....
I have studied the pictures of this project from last year many times.
I have been waiting for updates on this project.
As with the other work on this car, the upholstery is beyond first class.
Thanks very much for the time and effort it took to post the updates.
Oh wow, well anyways, great work! Looks like your almost done.
I have enjoyed this so much. Thanks for sharing.
One day, with money and time, I hope to replace all my frame bolts with rivets. I never thought about heating the rivet, after inserting it as I've only seen prior heating.
Because the rivets are so small they would cool too much before they even got in the hole also the metal of the frame would be a heat sink. Great photos.
Something a lot of people miss when first starting to rivet, is how much material it takes to form the head. If you look at the heated rivet picture, it may look like it is too long. But it takes all that material to form the head. I heated the rivet to red hot, then let it "soak" for about a minute. Then I re-heated it again, and let it "soak" one more time for a few seconds. Just till the red is all gone. Then I heated it the 3rd time and quickly set the head. Then I would hold the torch back on the partially formed head till the head just turned red. If you do it quickly and straight into the rivet head the frame will not get very hot. Then its easy to do the final forming and make it pretty. The main thing is to support or "Buck" the rivet very solidly before starting to set the rivet. The piece of square steel I show above works well when clamped in place. The dimples I made with the drill bit will hold the bar from sliding around. You will need to drill a new dimple for almost every rivet. The dimple location is usually different each time and the clamping is a different technique each time. Not really that hard of a job, but its slow and time consuming.
I was told, the rule of thumb is to have one and a half times the diameter of the rivet exposed to form a round head.
My bucking bar looks a lot like Donnie's, I drill the dimple with a drill bit and then finish it with a die grinder and a ball stone.
Great work Donnie, keep us posted.
I had to put new rivets in every location on the front of the 09 chassis.
I like the mounting for the ear of the Warford, I intend to review them more carefully and maybe add it to the Warford on the 14 Touring.
Donnie I am a little confused by your statement:
“My new cross bar and the rear running board bracket are not bolted together. The just rub on each other as the frame flexes. Probably over kill, but it looks neat. :-) “
I can see on the ninth picture from the end vertical bolts at the inner end of the running board supports. Then I can see nuts underneath.
Do you change your mind?
Why not connect them?
Why cut off the springs?
Sunday I needed to wash some clothes and such.I have been on my project for a month now.Mentally kinda pooped and physically sore.But I saw this thread and let it and the original load on my dialup as I took care of the washing and such,a bit over 2 hours to download all the pics! But I needed to see it.It is motivating to see others progress,their light at the end of the tunnel.
This is a wonderful project that is way above my skill level for sure.
Tony, The new bar I added above the "rear" running board brace is not attached to the "rear" running board brace at the center. When I installed the new bar there was about 1/8 inch gap between the bar and the rear running board brace. I was afraid that at some point in frame flex and travel they may rattle. So I added the piece of fan belt between them. The fan belt is held in place by three little brass stove bolts that are "bradded" on the threads so they act as a rivet. That way as the frame flexes they can slightly "rub" on each other with the fan belt between them. The front running board brace was re-located to the rear and just used as the material for the front flat bar/trans support cross member. The pieces of the front running board brace are riveted to the frame and the flat bar Warford support cross member. Everything was bolted together first as I was making the parts and as designs changed. Then when I was finally happy with the design I removed the bolts and riveted everything in place. What I like about the support design is that the hanger bolt is a 7/16 inch bolt in a 1/2 inch hole. So it is a sloppy fit in the hole and allows for flex. All that is needed is to support the trans in an up and down direction. This design allows the trans to move left/right and up, but not down. After I had every thing fit I did a "flex test" I tightened the support bolt till I could still turn the rubber shock washer by hand. It was stiff but I could still turn it with my fingers. The frame of the car was clamped to the saw horses on 3 sides and was sitting level. I then lifted up the one un-clamped side of the frame at the rear till I could put a 2x8 piece of wood (7-1/4 actual size) between the frame and saw horse. So I had a 7-1/4 inch twist to the frame. At that point I could still turn the rubber shock washer. It was a harder to turn, but I could still turn it. I figured a downward shock load of hitting a bump hard is the event that does the most damage with a Warford hanging off the rear of the engine. This design should almost totally eliminte that downward shock load. Mark. I had to cut off the two leaves of the spring because the 2 inch dropped cross member allowed the stock spring leaves to hit the frame. After cutting off the two leaves I have about 3/4 inches clearance. That should be plenty at that point. Mack, I can see the light, but it is still looks like a long way down there....
Tony, here is the link to the original forum discussion as I was trying to design the Warford hanger ...