Just brought home a 920 for my RPU project but need some help on disassembly. With the top and side cover off, it appears to be in really pretty good condition. I made a spanner to get the rear bearing out but don't know how to get the shaft out . Any help on the rebuilding process would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
It's been years since I tore one apart but if I remember right there is a bolt on the side of the case of the top shaft. It goes through the case and into a slot on a special round nut. The nut has several slots around the outside of it so you are able to adjust the end play on the top shaft. That round nut has fine threads around the outside of it. That is what was on my aluminum case Warfords but yours sounds like is might be steel since you mention a side plate. My aluminum case Warfords don't have that. There are two shafts end-to-end in the top. I believe the other end just had a big diameter nut that was held by a washer/special bend-up tab lock washer. Once you get that thin nut off the shaft will come out. It has two Timken taper bearings mounted opposite each other and the thin nut is what is used to hold that shaft assembly together.
As said above. The plates on the lower end will or should have brass shims and gaskets behind them. The shims set the bearing preload for the cluster shaft bearings. The plates need to come off to remove the cluster gear shaft. If you need to replace the tab lock washer contact me via PM we have them new. There are 3 preloads when setting up the transmission, the input shaft done with the two thin lock nuts, the output shaft is set with the slotted nut and lock bolt and the cluster shaft with the shims and gaskets.
Just went through this last spring. Try Googling "MTFCA Forum Warford", you will come up with a bunch of treads. Follow all the links and you will find a wealth of info. From cross references on the bearings and races to a exploded diagram that is a great help.
Oh and just so you know there were changes, they are not all created equal!
The large bearing on the output shaft, the the thickness of the lock on input shaft and the bearing in the middle of the main shaft.
Good luck Kevin
I had the bearing list someplace on my computer, can't find it now. I got all the bearings except the tapered one (not found) off Ebay. If you google "mtfca; warford" you should be able to find it.
I just looked at one of the shims I did not use, it was .005 steel. They came in different thickness and were both brass and steel.
Thanks for all the help. I took the slotted adjuster out and the bearing race but donít know which way the output shaft comes out. Does the small tapered bearing that fits in the input shaft have to come off first allowing the big gear to come off while still in the case? The small stamped steel nut on the input shaft was stripped making me think thatís what made the po quit using it. Thanks again for the help Iíll probably be needing more along the way. I had searched the forum before posting the questions but did not find any specifics. I will try again
Randy, It all comes out the back. After you unscrew the large adjusting nut on the back the bearing slides out and the shaft splits apart. BECAREFUL with the center small bearing!
After I read my post it's not exactly correct.
With the adj nut removed half the shaft and the bearing comes out the back. When the front nut is removed the shaft comes out leaving the front bearing in place and the shaft comes out the top with the first gear attached to the input shaft.
It's real simple once you have the nuts off. That front spider nut should be commonly available at a bearing house.
Did you also get the nose section that mounts between the rear of the engine and transmission and a support brace?
Mark, yes it looks complete with the nose section. If I understand correctly it just uses a stock T u-joint there right? Got it all completely disassembled tonight and everything except the big bearings and the locknut look good. Looks like the reason the locknut is bad is because no tabbed lock washer to hold it locked, so it backed off and went to flailing around on the shaft. Small bearing looks good.
Yes the standard U-joint is used. Sent you a PM are the tabbed washer.
So what's the purpose of the nose section. It doesn't look like it provides any flex But further extends the weight off the hogshead mounting. Maybe it's a different size square.
I know some guys that I don't think use that section. Could be wrong...
The truss co support is great and a must,
Re cast iron Warford;
The square on the input shaft is the same size as the T drive shaft. The hole in the tail shaft is larger then ether. If the transmission is bolted to the rear of the engine there would be too much slop between the too. Also with the intermediate section and the brace at the rear, takes the weight off the back of the motor and allow for more flex. Thank you who ever posted this drawing;
Gene, I don't use the nose section but the input shaft square needs to be built up to suit the 4th main size. In my case, we built a new square input.
Another potential issue is there is no locating flange/recess from the Warford to the 4th main, so misalignment is a risk -- the nose piece and universal joint provide sufficient "wiggle room ".
We also added a rear support bracket.
Ok, all ready to reassemble, what are the the pre loads on the bottom shaft, and also the top shaft? Are any of the shims for the bottom shaft available and also need the thin lock nuts to set the upper shaft preload. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
I don't think there is a pre-load number. I set mine to have a little drag on them. Pre-lube the bearings when doing the pre-load. I made my own gaskets and would have made the shims out of shim stock but as is was had one extra from what was in place.
I think I might have forgotten to send you an update on the tabbed washer, lots going on the last few weeks. Guessing you got it?
Re my Dec 4th posting; the aluminum 2 speed did not use the nose section, the cast iron 920 3 speed did. Not sure if the aluminum 3 speed used it but I think it did.
Alum 3 speeds bolt directly to the Ford Tranny.
Randy sent you a PM also
See the thread on this forum
Winter Model T Clinic in Hutchinson, KS
Looks like the program maybe some help