Stuck in gear

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Stuck in gear
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Raymond Claus on Thursday, December 07, 2017 - 05:28 pm:

Iím the newbie from Culpeper Va that posted a few days back. My T is a 1917 roadster/ pickup. While installing the tags I noticed the brake shoe bolt on the drivers side was half off. It was a castle nut so I hand threaded it in and didnít see any hole in the stud where a cotter pin would go. . I put some loctite on it and tightened it down good. The gap between the hub and axle housing closed which looked more like the passenger side.
I took the car for a drive around the block and when I got back to the house I attempted to back into the driveway and stalled. I restarted several times and the engine was running real rough and the car was shaking. I had some helpers push the car into the garage and it was a turning the engine over as it went. I have tried cranking the engine with the high gear shift level in about every position and the car wants to lurch forward. I opened the transmission cover and felt all three triple gears and they are all snug. Any suggestions.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dufault on Thursday, December 07, 2017 - 07:01 pm:

This thread should help:


http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/241937.html?1319599362

you find a "free neutral".


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chad Marchees _____Tax Capital, NY on Thursday, December 07, 2017 - 08:40 pm:

Raymond, you did remember to pull the parking brake lever half way back (straight up)to the "neutral" position before engaging reverse, right?

If so, try going through the adjustments posted by Dave above.

I would also just for kicks look at that brake shoe bolt. Sometimes tightening that nut will pull the bolt and put things into a bind. Also the should definitely be a hole for a cotter pin. It may be packed in with dirt, look real carefully and clean the hole out.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Thursday, December 07, 2017 - 09:02 pm:

May now have the brake shoe on the drivers side stuck, and since you posted by tightening that nut on the brake shoe bolt (all that nut does is keep the brake shoe bolt from allowing the shoe to shift outboard), something is amiss now.

Suspect your rear wheel is loose on the axle, that the axle nut is too loose, and lets the wheel shift outboard.

The only way you could have "closed the gap between the hub/{brake drum} and axle housing" is by pulling the wheel back onto the axle further as it should be.

Pull the hub cap inspect the axle nut tightness, if loose, pull the wheel and check out the brake shoes too.


Loose wheel hub on axle, large gap.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Friday, December 08, 2017 - 10:55 am:

Maybe the low pedal went over the top and now locked in low. Even pulling back on the parking brake handle will not put the car in neutral. With the pedal over the top and locked, the bands may be slipping enough to allow the car to start but it wants to "move". When driving in reverse, low and stopping the high speed clutch is disengaged, in neutral.
The lever is not the high speed, it's job is to put the transmission in neutral and set the parking brakes except when all the way forward and the high speed clutch is engaged. When the low pedal is pressed about half way down it also disengages the high speed clutch.
The hole in the backing plate for the parking brake mounting bolt is threaded. When you tighten the nut you may have move it outward. Pull the wheel and check things out.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Friday, December 08, 2017 - 11:46 am:

RE; " Even pulling back on the parking brake handle will not put the car in neutral." (pedal going over the top)
Let me try and make that more clear because it can be a little confusing. When the low band is engaged the high speed clutch will be in neutral but not like a normal gear shift transmission. So if the low pedal has gone over the top and locked in low, the band is tight or slipping on the low drum putting the car in drive or trying to put the car in drive.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john pawlowski - NE Pennsylvania on Friday, December 08, 2017 - 05:34 pm:

Mark, what is meant by "low pedal going over the top"?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dufault on Friday, December 08, 2017 - 08:05 pm:

john, until Mark replies, see if the 3rd post (by Dan Treace) in this thread helps.

(Pay particular attention to the words encircled by the red line).

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/708324/748135.html?1492966456


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Friday, December 08, 2017 - 08:30 pm:

When the link/bands are miss adjusted and the pedal locks in the down position. The link between the clutch arm and low pedal kinda jackknifes not allowing the pedal to come back up. You then have to reach down and pull the pedal back up or use your foot.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry Bond on Friday, December 08, 2017 - 11:07 pm:

Raymond, there are some Model T folks not far from you who might be able to help. See if you can get in touch with someone from the Historic Fredericksburg Region AACA. You can email their club president directly from the AACA website if you go to the tab on top of the front page for Regions and Chapters then scroll down to Virginia. I'm sure they will put you in contact with some folks to help. No reason not to get involved with them, safety in numbers!
Terry


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