Removing radius rod

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Removing radius rod
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Matt the Headlight Lens Guy n California on Saturday, December 09, 2017 - 01:16 pm:

I am trying to help a friend remove one of their rear radius rods that are bent. Is that possible to do on the car? I removed the two nuts on the drum in the front not connecting to the driveline. But it doesnít seem like there will be enough clearance to remove it. Is there some sort of trick?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Saturday, December 09, 2017 - 02:07 pm:

Matt,there is a trick, but before you can apply it the rear wheels need to be pulled so the bolts at the back can be taken out.
Then to the nuts at the front. Remove the split pin and castle nut first. The other nut needs to be wound right back as far as it can go on the thread available. This will allow the rod to be pulled as far forward as possible. Most rods will almost come clear at the rear by now, but you may need to flex them just a bit. A tap with a rubber mallet is needed some times.

Hope this helps,
Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Trevan - Australia on Saturday, December 09, 2017 - 02:52 pm:

Hi Allan.
I have been restoring model ''T''s for 65 years and still learning something new every day . THANKS


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Saturday, December 09, 2017 - 04:41 pm:

Be careful when you put things back to be sure the driveshaft and axle are perpendicular. Those nuts are what hold things in the proper position.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Saturday, December 09, 2017 - 05:08 pm:

Sometimes one must tweak (bend) the radius rods a bit (some force required) to flex them enough to pop out from behind the brake cam castings. Since the wheels generally MUST be removed to access the bolts, often the rear end will be sitting on jacks or stands. PLEASE be very careful to not shake the car off the stands! Either support securely, or put wheels back on (awkward to work around).
Minor variations, length/condition of threads on the front nuts, minor twists or bends in the radius rod, sixe/shape of cam castings, etc. Sometimes the radius rods will slip right out or in, sometimes they become a major struggle. Don'e be distracted and drop the car on yourself.
Putting one in one time, I ground a small amount off the corner of the front threads. Didn't cause any significant harm, or weakness, to the radius rod. But it allowed the rod to slip in much easier.

Be safe!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Tomaso - Longbranch,WA on Saturday, December 09, 2017 - 06:06 pm:

Removing the radius rods from a small drum rear axle assembly is quite do-able as Allan stated above however, I don't believe the same can be said regarding the large drum assembly.

Following the directions in the Ford Service Manual to properly assembly the radius rods - run up castle nuts far enough to insert cotter pin then run up the rearward nut and tighten.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Matt the Headlight Lens Guy n California on Saturday, December 09, 2017 - 10:11 pm:

Thanks for all the help! I didnít respond until now. But I was reading the messages on my phone. We had to cut off the old radius rod because it was bent and we couldnít run the nut back far enough. The replacement was not too difficult to put on.

This was done on a small drum axle. I believe it was in 1914, the car was a 1914.

Thanks so much MTFCA!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Saturday, December 09, 2017 - 11:17 pm:

If the one you took out was the early '14 style with the forged end fork? It would be well worth repairing. If it was the later '14 style (like a '15 through '18 or so without an open seam), it still may be worth repairing.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Matt the Headlight Lens Guy n California on Sunday, December 10, 2017 - 09:00 pm:

Wayne,
It was kinked and back pretty bad. I will have to check to see what type it is. But unfortunately my dad cut it off.

Thanks

Matt


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