Does anybody use 10w30 Racing type oil that still has zinc in it (I think), like Valvoline VR1.? I understand because its "racing" oil, its allowed to have zinc in it. Zinc rich oils were typical from the 50's on up until some yeas ago ?. Kinda like taking the lead out of gas ? Thanks
Brad Penn Racing Oil, 10W-40 has Zinc
yes I use it, in one car a customer's 29 rolls Royce p2 roadster
CAMOil, 15W40 is another one that has primary ZDDP and secondary ZDDP ( which activates at lower temperatures )
I use Rottela 15-40. Might be a little heavy for the northern areas right now
Zink is not needed in a T unless you are using super strong valve springs.
They started putting zink in the oil in the late fifties.
Most places that sell oil have motorcycle oil, which usually has sink.
Oils rated SF or SJ have sink.
If is rated for service SM or SN it does not contain zinc.
Again, donít worry about it in a T.
If you have a flat tap pet engine that has heavy enough valve springs that you feel you need zink you can buy a zink additive at parts stores.
The opinion of many has ZDDP , a zinc additive, very beneficial in the anti-wear properties of oil uswed in engines with flat lifters.... just like the Model T engine.
SH, SF rated oils , like motorcycle oils, have the most ZDDP available today, along with various specialized racing oils.
The newer SN rated oils have a lot less due to those engines that require SN probably have roller type lifters.
Have to read and understand label information to make an educated selection.
API rating refers to addttive content.
Viscosity refers to flow at specified temperature.
I did a continuity test this past weekend on some undiluted STP additive with ZDDP and it came up negative. There was a theory on an old thread that it might short out the magneto post. But if that was true, then used engine oil with brass, steel, babbitt, and chrome filings from engine wear would also create a problem. Anyway, I'm surprised that no one had checked.
The oil that we have been warned not to use because it will do bad things to the magneto, is oil with Molybdinum in it. Also known as Moly oil. It is not nearly as common as it was a while back, and in fact may not be available most places.
"But if that was true, then used engine oil with brass, steel, babbitt, and chrome filings from engine wear would also create a problem."
It probably does. Just not a low enough resistance to shut things down, but it probably does rob some efficiency.
My favorite choice for engine lubrication is oil. Just about any oil made for gas engines. Works great!
The other consideration is the detergent in oil. In the non-D the foreign particles settle into the pan.With detergent oil they are carried through the system especially when hot. I've been told that if you use D oil you must have a filter,pretty hard unless you have pressure oiling. It was also said for awhile detergent could eat babbit out of the bearings. Haven't heard much about that lately. It may just boil down to what each individual is comfortable with.
Yes, a filter would be nice, but frequent changes kind of accomplishes the same thing.
My 2 cents worth just FYI. I've never run anything but non Detergent in my Model Ts and there was a time when I was considering a change to detergent because sometimes when I'm on the road, long distance, non D is hard to find. Then they started changing the formulation in the detergent oils and I thought, why did I even consider changing to detergent. With Non D I haven't had any problems, I seldom have to work on my engines and when I do I don't see any excessive wear (after 10,000 miles on number 4 (1915 race car, stock crank no oil pump) when a rod bearing went (bad pour on the babbitt, improperly tinned) the other rods were still at 1 1/2 thousandths, and...... I don't have to worry about the latest change in formulation like the people running detergent oil have to worry about. Non detergent is just good old non detergent!
Ed aka #4