Early style tie rods. are they weaker than later, and how to make stronger ???

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Early style tie rods. are they weaker than later, and how to make stronger ???
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donnie Brown North Central Arkansas on Friday, December 15, 2017 - 09:18 pm:

Im doing the final install of the speedster project front end pieces and parts. Because I am using a set of "common sence" radius rods and "laurel" lowering brackets I "MUST" use the early style radius rod. The one with the ball that is part of the radius rod. It is the only style that will clear the "common sence" radius rods. I have tried every combination of rods, fittings, and spindle arms. I have a few early style tie rods to chose from, most appear OK other than a few small rust pits on the outside. They appear to not be too bad on the inside, but that is hard to judge. The early style seems to me to be a little weaker than the later style. The castings or fittings are a little lighter made on the early style. So is there any safety issues with the early style tie rods or is there some way to strengthen them. I thought about sliding a full length 7/16 round rod inside the tie rod and sealing it into place with panel adhesive/epoxy. The epoxy should seal out any water. The 7/16 rod is very slightly loose, but I do not think anything bigger will fit, because the insides of the radius rods are not a machined bore, but just a rough bore. Any ideas or suggestions will be appreciated. Since this is a speedster, I want it as good as possible as to steering, brakes, ect.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Nevada Bob Middleton on Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 12:01 am:

Put split bones on it plenty of room


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Nevada Bob Middleton on Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 12:06 am:


My last set laurels i put on i arched the spring ends get another 1" lower


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 06:28 am:

Donnie, do you mean the tie rod?

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donnie Brown North Central Arkansas on Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 10:09 am:

Allen, yes the "tie rod" (the long one) We call the short one the "drag link" Im not sure what you guys "down there" call it :-). After all you have words like bonnet, hood, boot, all describing things we call top, hood, trunk, but not the same things on the car. :-) Any suggestions as to period correct things they did back in the day would be appreciated ... Here is a pic of the "common sense" radius rods at the affected problem area. This is the correct setup with the early parts and functions and works properly. If I use the later curved spindle arms turned down the tie rod hits the bottom bar of the common sense radius rod or if I turn the curve up the tie rod hits the bottom of the oil pan. The main problem is the location of the ball on the tie rod. On the early style tie rod the ball is centered on the shaft and will clear everything. On the removable ball tie rods the ball is below center of the tie rod. I had thought about bending the curved spindle arms up enough to clear the removable style ball. But If I move it enough for the ball to clear, then the tie rod will hit the bottom of the oil pan. It seems like the "common sense" radius rods were designed and sold during the time of the early style front end parts. Because that is the only parts that will work. I guess the early style radius rod is good enough, but they just look weak to me ... I do not want to change out the "common sense" radius rods as they are a major part of the cars design and appeal. have fun and be safe .....

1


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 05:10 pm:

Donnie, what would happen if you used the straight spindle arms from an earlier car?
I agree that it is worth working around the original radius rod system you have found. Neat stuff!

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Walter Higgins on Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 05:16 pm:

It's not difficult to re-tube a tie rod. The correct 11/16" tubing is available. Cheap peace of mind.


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