I have a 1915 T and am considering a 6v battery for a little cranking assistance. Just wanted to ask which is a good reliable and inexpensive little battery folks have tried?
Thank you Steve –I assume I ground the negative post to the frame and ran the hot directly to the coil box?
My experience with 6 volt hot shot batteries is that unless you pay up and get a Yuasa, most of them are low quality and don't last very long. I think I would look for a 12 volt AGM (activated glass mat) over a SLA (sealed lead acid) type which seems to be the most common type available. There is a pretty good selection of quality 12 volt AGM batteries out there at decent prices that would last for years if recharged frequently enough.
I don't know if a magneto charger could be set up to recharge a 12 volt battery though. I guess that's a question John Regan could answer.
I use cheap 12v safty light battery usualy around $15 or less and little charger last all year and smaller then any 6v battery
Do not let the battery voltage get to the mag post. You will need to use the switch. Or install an - either or- switch.
I use a small sealed 6 volt lead acid battery #UB6120.
They can be recharged and you can buy them new for less than $20.
On my 15, I for years used a plain old 6.3 volt lantern battery I’d buy from a local hardware store for a couple of bucks. I’d get 2 years out of them and then just chuck them without ever trying to get 3 years. Now mind you, I’d switch to mag within say a minute of a start.
Yep. 6v lantern batteries. I actually made a box to hold two of them, with taps for 6 and 12v.
I have two agm batteries that are fully charged all the time. One is kept in the tool box while the other serves to start. The battery hooked up will usually last all year for starting. However, my 1912 mag has started to kick up and I will run on battery. If used this way, I can run a full tour, (usually 400 to 500 miles in a week) until I install the fully charged battery.
In my 14 roadster there is room behind the gas tank for the jack a couple coils and tubes. I also use that space for my starting battery. I have used dry cells for quite awhile but the quality seems to have gone down. I now use a motorcycle battery. The battery was mounted in a little box in the turtle deck when I got the car. I wouldn't strap it to the frame like dauntless geezer, with a little effort you can make a clean installation. As far as charging I just use a standard battery charger between uses.
Recently, when I attempted to start my '14 the gel cell battery was dead. I was going to replace it when I noticed that I had about a dozen NiCad power tool batteries and chargers on the shelf in the wood shop and thought it was a shame that I couldn't use one of them. With every tool I bought (mostly Dewalt) I got another charger - they were stacked up like cordwood. Seizing on inventory I tore apart one of the multiple voltage models and soldered a polarized/fused pigtail on the bottom of the circuit board and routed it through the vent holes in the case. The pigtail has an insulated cap for the end when it is not used. Now I can put the charger under the seat - install any voltage Dewalt battery I have (7.2, 9.6, 12, or 18 volt) and proceed as usual. The jury is still out on whether 18 vdc is a good idea as far as the coils are concerned. The charger can be unplugged and removed from the car at any time to function as it was originally intended. Maybe a good deal for those who tour? The hardest part was "de-childproofing the childproof screws that held the danged thing together!
Dave raises a good point. My friend with a 25 TT uses his stock power tool battery for starting.
His truck had been fitted with nice wide alligator clamps.
I use a $20 fish locator battery in my 18.