Winter is here. -10F last night. Drained fuel system and water from 21 touring two months ago. Removed battery, sprayed fogging oil in each cylinder. Since the old girl is in an unheated garage I'm back to the weekly ritual of yanking the crank till April when I'll fuel up again.
I would premix antifreeze to match your lowest temp and refill the cooling system. Will keep the inside of block and head from rusting more. Antifreeze has anti rust inhibitors in it. Which is also the reason to use antifreeze all year round.
My OP is; Gas tanks that are empty go thru hot cold causing condensation on the inside like a metal roofed shed, which can lead to rust out. It would be better to fill and use gas stabilizers to minimize the exposed inside surface area.
I had my engine rebuilt last year and the engine builder recommended no antifreeze for at least one year. The reason possible damage to the head gasket. I also ran water with anti-corrosive additive up till draining.
The gas tank was sloshed with 50 to 1 2 stroke mix.
RE; I had my engine rebuilt last year and the engine builder recommended no antifreeze for at least one year. The reason possible damage to the head gasket.
? That's a new one.
Ok so you should follow what the builder told you
My OP for what it's worth:
If the engine has been run and the head re torqued several times as it should, that should be a non issue. I get where he is coming from in part, before the head is fully seated there may or may not be some leakage, there should not be any. Antifreeze would not hurt the gasket, copper or steel.
RE: anti-corrosive additive
That is a great idea! Even my 1948 Ford truck manual said to do the same thing if not running antifreeze.
Antifreeze is pretty slippery and will leak or seep when straight water may not. Sounds to me that the rebuilder has dealt with some coolant leak issues in the past when a-freeze was used and hopes to get past any warranty issues by using straight water for the warranty period.
I think you hit it (excuse the pun) right on the head! I cant think of any other reason not to use anti-freeze and had never heard anyone cautioning against using it- temporarily.
I'm confused Having rebuilt several engines in my life the first thing I do after a test run with plain water to determine that I have no leaks is to add antifreeze,I then check the level daily for the first week and have never had a problem. Maybe it's all the new colors in the antifreeze that damages the head gasket. Maybe Herm will chime in with his thoughts here
I only use straight water when I first put on the head or radiator. The reason is to be sure I have no leaks. After the head is torqued several times until it stays at torque, I drain and use anti-freeze. We very seldom have freezing weather here, but the anti-freeze has rust inhibiter in it and it also raises the boiling point so you won't lose as much steam when the engine gets hot. I don't know what kind of water you have there, but our water is so hard that it seals plumbing leaks! Maybe that is why the rebuilder wants you to use it, however the same lime and calcium deposits will plug the radiator and prevent cooling. So if you use straight water, use distilled water.
The last time I torqued the head was after cool down on the last time I ran the engine. That was the fourth re-torque in 10 hours on the engine. The torgue held on all bolts. I am now contemplating putting an anti freeze mix to prevent corrosion based on the advise of forum members.
No layup here. Some winters we have a few days or nights with single digit temps, some winters lowest temps in the teens. Our T will be driven on all but the coldest days. I have the system clean with no leaks and will change to a 50/50 mix in the next few days.