I would like to reserve the running board space on my 1923 touring for other things. Anybody have good pictures of a rear spare carrier (for clincher rim) and how it's mounted?
Thanks. Those give an idea how it's supposed to go.
I think I can make something along those lines.
sorry about the pix quality. Once you reduce size in paint you can't increase without distortion
Sorry missed the part about clincher
Holes in the later frames for spare rim carrier.
Clamping for holding rim to carrier
Mine is the same as Dan shows and is illustrated in the manual. I have the piece that clamps on the rim .. just need to modify a long bolt to use it. It's not the same as a standard rim bolt.
this is mine
yep y mount for 30 x 3.5 clincher
I had the same type 30 x 3 1 1/2 spare tire bracket with a Y on my old speedster as is shown above by G. R. But I wanted it to have the tires lean forward. So I cut a V in the top of the curved tubular shaft, bent the shaft forward and welded it.
Excellent! With these pictures and Google images I think I'm well on the way. Now let's see if anybody can come up with a couple of measurements.
I'd like to get the distance from the back of the frame (C)...
...to the back of the carrier beside the rear rivet (D), and from there, beside the rivet (D), to the top of the carrier (E).
I can tell you Steve that when installing the stock bracket onto frame as you have illustrated above ... itís much easier when you loosen the bolts that hold the bracket together. Itís a real pain getting all the holes in the bracket to line up the holes in the frame. Get all the bolts installed loose ... and then tighten.
The USA tub may differ from mine, but with the body on, there's no way to get the top bolts in or out.
Steve, I will go through my spare tire carriers and see if I have what you need. I also have some nice front fenders in case you still need one. Would be glad to have you come see me. Ed
C to D 10 1/2"
D to E 8 1/4"
Mark - those carriers were originally riveted together - not bolted.
Frank - the bolts go up from the bottom - nuts on top.
FYI: I have an NOS 30X3.5 Carrier that I would sell. Dan
Ha ... how about that. I guess someone had mine apart at some time to clean it up .. and put it back together with small bolts. Bought it from Model T Haven a couple of years ago. Next time I take it off I'll install rivets. Thanks.
Steve, If you want the proper carrier for your 1923 model, look for a carrier without the two "crimps" in the top rail. They were added in 1924 when the 1924-27 tail lamp/license bracket became standard on the starter equipped cars. The hole in the top of the rail is for routing the wire when using the later tail lamp. Most of the photos shown on this "string" show the 1924-25 carrier.
All of these carriers are for 30X3-1/2 clinchers. The one without the "crimps" would be for your 1923.
This is what I meant by the one I've got, a floor support plank runs on top of the frame rail, limiting the ability to remove with out lifting the tub.
Steve, unless you are in a great hurry, or just want to tackle building a tire carrier, I think I have one (or 2 or 3) if you are interested. It will be a whole lot easier to use the original part. My stuff is priced so that even "Mr. Thrifty" will like it .. Let me know if you want pictures.
e-mail dobro (at) artelco.com
Ed, I sent you an email.
I see Frank ! I'll take a gander at our '19 Centerdoor w/demountables and check the mounting bolts on that carrier.
Steve, When I try to answer your e-mail, my internet quits working. My fenders are not quite as good as I remembered, but I believe they are still pretty good. Also found a spare tire carrier that seems to match the one you need. Saturday or Sunday would be just fine. Saturday might be better to beat the weather. I live on West Garriott, but the parts are at a house I bought for storage on east Garriott ( Hwy. 412) give me a ring and I could give directions and meet you there. Phone is 580-237-6717. Ed