I am re assembling the sediment bowl underneath the tank, etc.
Is there anything else I apply to the (lead?) sediment bowl gasket? Or will simply tightening the new gasket do the trick?
The sediment bowl appears to be holding its own in that it's not leaking at the tank connection. I went to test the bowl the other day, and gas was leaking from the old gasket. Ordered a couple of new ones.
Many thanks, in advance, for any insight!
I gather we're talking about the gasket between the outlet and the body of the bulb.
Not wanting to wait, I just cut one out of thick gasket paper. I suppose a bit of Ultra Black wouldn't hurt, but I just used the paper gasket by itself. Two years later it hasn't leaked yet. A roll of this thick gasket paper from the local auto parts store is a handy thing to keep around.
I ordered a gasket and not wanting to wait, like Steve, I made one out of paper. No problems and I've got a lead one still if I need it. Not mine, but this is the shiniest one I've ever seen.
I bought a new reproduction as my Fordor did not have one when I bought it. The reproduction didn't have the screen that goes inside the tank. Does someone make these as I cannot find one?
I bought a new screen from either Langs or Snyders 2 years ago for the sediment bowl on my 21 Touring. When you said tank I assume you mean the screen that's inside the bulb.
The little screen that sticks up into the tank is an aftermarket item sold separately by the parts dealers.
Keep in mind that those stick up screens trap stuff in the tank and the only way to clean that stuff out is to pull the screen. You're really much better off with the bowl screen as it's easily cleanable & with luck dirt in the tank will pass out to that point.
So, you are telling me I should skip that tall screen, as pictured above, and keep the bulb mounted as I have now minus the screen. Correct?
There are lots of Model A that have that screen installed. The gas sloshing back and forth should keep the screen some what clear. That being said I would add the screen in the bowl its self first. They are soldered in place.
The paper gasket, next time I am going to try that. I have found the lead ones really hard to seal.
I use Liquid Locktite 456 on the thread between the tank and the Bowl as well as gasket faces where Iíve found it works wonders on all forms of leakages
Alan in Western Australia
I just put a new screen in my sediment bowl and new lead gasket for it. As Mark stated they sometimes are difficult to seal. So I drained the tank to it apart, added some EZ Lube to all the valves, makes them easy to turn, also added it to the lead gasket. It's now sealed and the valves turn great.
Getting pictures facing the correct direction has become a real challenge for me...I can take a program turn them, and when I upload it changes..oh well, at least you can see the product I used.
I rather like having the in-tank screen. I'd rather have stuff stay in the tank than clog the inlet port of the sediment bulb. You'd have to have A LOT of stuff in there to clog that screen enough to block your flow.
I have come to the conclusion that the lead used for the replacement gets old and hard, like it is worked hardened, not soft like it should be. Also if you look at the two pieces, there were sealing rings machined into the faces. Sometimes these get worn or worked away when the parts are cleaned.
I'll say it again: that in tank screen can only be cleaned by removing it. That involves removing the bulb so you're doing double (hell quadruple is more like it) work because you'll clean the in bulb screen at the same time any way. So instead of removing the fuel line and opening the screen fitting on the bulb to clean it you now have to drain the tank, remove the fuel line, pull the bulb to clean the in tank screen, remove the screen/bulb fitting to clean that and re assemble the whole thing. Add to that the recent posts involving the tank thread leaks from wear & tear and you hopefully begin to see the light.
Ok and I will say it again, Model A guys use them all the time. If you have that much crap in your tank there is more to worry about then that screen getting plugged up anyway. Chances are you will need to remove the whole thing anyway to get the outlet screen off it. Then in ether case you need to get lead gasket to reseal when you put the screen assembly back on. Add to that, like a lot of them, the shut off handle no longer works, that why you added a in line shut off so you will still have to drain the tank.
Charlie, you are absolutely right, assuming you ever have to clean it, but that situation has never arisen with anyone I know.
To add what I said, I have yet to see a sediment bowl that sits flush with the bottom inside of the tank unless modified. The ones I have worked with extend up into the tank so most of the large sediment will sit in the bottom of the tank along with any water. Car sitting flat if you drain the tank will have some gas left in it.