I made these drawings from some originals that I had years ago. I never made a set so I can't vouch for their accuracy, but it's a place to start. I've attached a photo of a set that I found for sale on the internet to help. Private message me if you want a DXF file. Enjoy
Nice of you to do this Joe
and for those who may want to make a set, be aware that they are HARD. Necessary so as to stand up to the small lip being pulled on pretty hard when snugged up.
So plan on using material that can be heat treated.
Iím sure I am not the only one with this question.
What are these used for?
Where on the are they used?
They are used in the fitting of new main bearings in a T block - quick bolts is just what they do - faster to check your work - one doesn't have to run all the original Ford main bolts up tight.
I have had several sets of the Wilsons, and also of the Kwik-Way. For ease of using, the Kwik-Way is a far better tool.
You Never pull these tight like a main bolt, they are just to be made snug, say 20, or 25 Foot Pounds, or you will wreck them.
Before you use any main bolt, run a 1/2 inch drill bit down the main bolt hole, to clear any of the under size hole, from all previous tightenings. The nut end area of the main bolt can especially be undersize.
how do the Kwik-way bolts work? If you happened to have a picture, that would be wonderful.
And you're sure right about "snug". I had to do some gentle grinding to get some deformation off of the bolts to bring them back to size after the last guy overtightened them.
I've been made aware that the dimension of the height of the eccentric is missing although the overall height is given (.485), the height of the .750 eccentric is .085. Enjoy
I do not see the size of the bolt shaft anyplace, probably missed it.
The Kwik-Way bolt shaft from the end of the threads, and down 2 inches is .500 Minus, 005-00.
The rest of the way down O.D. is .475.
This gets rid of a lot of drag to get the bolts in and out.
I think I have some pictures, but can't find them right now. The camera is broke, and I have a good phone one, but I don't know how to put them on the computer, and then to the Forum.
I have seen many Quick Bolts break right at the thread, or two or three threads higher.
Quick Bolts should Never be used for your final, or finish Align Bore, use the main bolts only!
Why would you need to be removing the caps on and off when line boring??
Herm neither said nor suggested any such thing. Was perfectly clear to me.
'Quick bolts should Never be used for your FINAL, or finish Align Bore, use the main bolts only!'
So my question is a genuine one,
Leading up to your final line boring, why a need to quick release the caps??
"Why a need to quick release the caps??"
As far as I'm concerned, all bolts are quick release when you have pneumatic/battery impact drivers. However... during more simpler times, I imagine these bolts were a welcome improvement over running fine pitch nuts on and off during the entire re-babbiting process.
Fully agree Herm, finish cut only under full torque!!!
The threaded shaft measured .490. I did not add the dimensions as I assumed that it was simply at the low end of the tolerance for the material used for the 1/2-13 thread. The threads looked cut rather than rolled and the shaft showed no signs of grinding or machining to reach the .490 dimension. I did these at least 10 years ago so please excuse some of the missing information. Enjoy
Fantastic when lapping in an old crank and new rods with timesaver. KGB
thanks for posting this drawing ...as Keith states ...these are handy for the lapping and blueing of the mains when fitting a used crankshaft ...always an optimist...gene french
As Kevin knows, you should only cut the final Align Bore, on any engine, with the main caps set under the torque, that the main cap and bolts will have when the crank is set. The main caps will stress a block, like a head, to a smaller extent, but enough to effect a Align Bore. Nine main bearing engines, that we do a lot of, is even more important, and touchy!
That is why it is so important to have the cap near 100% contact with the block also.
I have been using Quick bolts since I was in my teens. I don't need to use them the way Wilson did, but what I do is put the caps on, and Align Bore the mains to .040-00 under the finish size.
Then I pull the caps, and put in the oil grooves, and oil wells, and then I put the main caps back on, with the main bolts, and finish the Align Bore. It does save me time.
I would like to see a video of someone using them.