New Lined Brake shoes

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2009: New Lined Brake shoes
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robert Kiefaber on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 08:47 pm:

I have just installed the new lined brake shoes. The vendor told me up front that they would most likely need to be ground to fit. I am having trouble figuring out where exactly to grind. I have already did some grinding on the cam surface area as it was rough. After installing my wheels they still grab. I can't even push the car in neutral.
I have the brake rods and cams adjusted correctly, but these shoes still are grabbing. If anyone is experienced with these, please explain what you did. I know some will tell me to junk them, but I really want to make them work. Very frustrated.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Michael Materazzi on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 09:09 pm:

Check this tread it should help.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/92367.html?1242607005


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR. on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 09:18 pm:

I just fitted a set of them a couple days ago. It was the opposite end of them that needed work on these (small drum ones). I clamped them together and re-drilled the 1/2" hole for the pivot bolt, then they fit fine.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By scott on Friday, August 07, 2009 - 06:58 am:

having fit several...first by hand and last using milling machine, here's my take.

1. grind or file shoes until they're same width as original (1" ?...can't recall for sure). A key point is to be sure that the side of the shoe which rubs the backing plate is plenty flat.

2. Pivot radius is typically too small. Start by creating pivot radius which will fit pivot bolt. Use round file and work radius until shoe fits fore/aft correctly (radius of brake material is concentric to backing plate).

3. Once concentricity is achieved, "drop" the centerline of the pivot a bit to bring everything into symetry

4. file the "flat" which rides on the cam so that it is truely perpendicular to the backing plate or with a tiny positive tilt so that it naturally tilts toward backing plate (just a tiny bit!). This keeps shoe from rubbing/dragging on drum.

5. Once everything is square and able to be mounted, dummy parts in place. Look at pivot area of upper and lower shoes. File the face of 1 shoe at pivot point so that pivot bolt can be screwed in and the head of the bolt *just* touches both shoes...this keeps one shoe or the other from wandering along the bolt ant rubbing the drum.

6. NOW you can see if the lining or any part of the casting exceeds the diameter of the backing plate and you can work from there.

this product could be better as delivered, but is well worth the effort to fit properly. I have no interest in this product or even know who's making them...am just thankful that someone is.

scott


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gordon Byers on Friday, August 07, 2009 - 10:12 am:

...am just thankful that someone is.

scott

AMEN!!! And also thankful for ALL the suppliers of NOS and/or reproduction items for our T's.
THANK YOU!!!
Gordon


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