I just reground and ajusted the gaps on my valves (26 T) and it still has original style valves and no block inserts. How important is it to add lead substitute in my gas? will MMO do the same or better? Combine them? Already adding sta-bil fuel stabilizer. Opinions?
Lead wasn't added to gas until sometime in the 1930's so I wouldn't think it necessary to add it to a Model T. I use MMO when I fill up, just on the idea "wouldn't hurt" although I find it seems to start a little easier mixed with the fuel.
Use the cheapest unleaded gas you can buy in your Model T. Lead was never available when Model Ts were new, in fact gasoline octane was reportedly under 60 during the "T" era.
Also, don't add any oil or anything else to the gas. Marvel Mystery oil is a mystery to me, because it is not needed in any engine that came in your T. It serves no purpose, and it does not do what it says on the label. It is simple "snake oil" marketing that has fooled many people into paying for it for decades.
.....But it smells good.
I use Marvel Mystery Oil in my air tools such as my air drills, die grinders, rivet gun, keyhole saw, etc. It works great for that purpose and is less messy than some other air tool oils.
I've never used it and I've often wondered if it wouldn't leave a burned deposit on the pistons and valves like an oil burning engine does.
As stated, there was no lead in the gas in the T era, but they also grinded valves every weekend ;-)
The lead has another effect than the original intended - to raise the octan figure to prevent ignition knocking. The byeffect was that the lead smeared the valves. This was recognised when leadfree gas was introduced and is why newer cars gets rings in the heads to make them able to survive without the lead.
There are expensive additives that do raise the octan figure, but also cheaper, that contents metal salts that smears the valves.
I am not US resident, so I can't recommend any products, but I use one of such cheap aditives (sold by StatOil here in Denmark)
Snake oil to get your money.
Hi, I put hard seats in both the intake and exhaust. I used stainless valves in all the holes also. It was cheap enough and after 10 years of service all is still happy.
I like my mmo, ain't never gone quit using it.
I remember hearing the storys from both grandfathers telling about grinding the valves on T's and A's alot.My grandpal Cole used to drive a Model A from Charlotte to Charleston on monday morning,drive back on friday night,grind valves on saterday.Most of the time replaceing a rod or 2 as he would have to stop half way and put leather in 1 of the rod bearings.
these old cars werent as trouble free as our new 1's that carry us 100's of miles with only a fill up at the gas station.
Lead substitute used to be avaliable,may still be at Napa,but it aint on the shelves at Advance auto.
I knew a fellow that swore by Rislone oil additive.Why I dont know but anything that used oil,he put it in it.
I use MMO in gas.
When I first bought our '13, I experimented with grades of gas and concluded that worst gas possible ran the best. Based on forum chatter back then, I tried MMO, but accidentally doubled the recommended amount. Without a doubt, this snake oil improved the sound of it's old engine and it did (does) run better. My guess is that it's killing a bit of octane and bringing the gas to a rating more in line with what it was designed for. Snake oil or not, this particular car benefits from it.
If the MMO is really making the gas lower octain, thus working better with the low compression heads, what about the usefulness on cars with a "Z" high comp head? Does MMO still have anything to offer?
If you keep the original valves in your engine, they will burn out soon. Hard seats not needed. If you want upper cylinder lubrication, why not use 2 cycle oil which is designed to burn clean.
Higher octane than needed does not cause any problems. Octane rating has nothing to do with the amount of energy in the fuel, flame speed or combustion temperature. It is a measure of auto-ignition sensitivity.
I added MMO to my gas once a few years ago, probably went with the old adage "If a little bit is good, etc." and overdosed. About a pint in a tank of gas if I recall. Hardly make it out of the driveway before the plugs started fouling but was able to limp back home. Drained that bunch of gas and used in the lawn mower, filled up with clean gas, cleaned and gapped the plugs and chalked that one up to experience. The amounts that are being bandied about here probably wouldn't hurt anything but I personally won't try it again.
MMO is good to put in an engine that has been sitting a long time and has developed the old stuck ring syndrome.
I just got rid of an AA orchard tractor yesterday that sat for many years without running.
When I first got it stated last year it had a stuck exaust valve and it smoked so bad that I couldn't run it in town.
I would take out the spark plug and stick a bent rod in the hole and pound the exhaust valve shut, start it up and in a few seconds the valve would stick again.
I ran it a couple of hours with the plug out and I would just hit the valve with the engine running untill the smoke from the exhaust over took me.
Finally I tried the MMO.
In a few minutes the valve started working just fine. Maybe another 10 minutes total of running in a few days time the smoke quit. I asume it smoked because of a stuck ring or rings.
Anyway, it starts right off now, hot or cold, doesn't smoke and idles fine.
Maybe oenetrating oil, ATF or panther piss or monkey swet would have done the same job, but MMO was made just for that purpose.
If the motor is clean and runs good I think it is a waste of money to use it. Same as most additives, most won't hurt the engine much.