My 26 Fordoor has been running fine since last April when I buttoned up the engine. Rebuilt the carb at that time.
Two evenings ago, the engine tried to die....pulled choke intermittently to get her home.
Disassembled carb tonight....needle inlet clogged with felt...(from felt gas line washers I had used over and over.) I will install farrells Friday.

When I drained the tank last night, the gasoline was clear and clean....got rid of it anyway.
I've put at least 300 miles on the car since April...ran fine.

Question: Should I remove the tank and clean it out. The car did set for about 15 years with tank totally empty.

Question: If I do remove the tank, can I just disconnect the straps, or do I have to unbolt the frame mounting bolts? The straps look like they won't have alot of flex.

Question: Am I going to cause a leak at the tank sediment bulb if I try to remove the screen for cleaning? Nothing on the sediment bulb leaks right now.

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Bill

I removed the gas tank from my 26 and all you need to do is remove the straps they bolt on one end an have a hook on the other. The tank fits good and tight so don't give up it will come out, but it goes in even harer. If you have no rust in the carb, or lines I would not take it out. While I had mine out I did seal the tank. Dave

David, what body style 26 do you have? The straps having a hook on one end and a stud or bolt on the other, sound like the cowl mounted tank on a coupe or tudor. Fordor tanks were mounted under the front seat. I would be surprised if the straps were the same type.

I noticed the other day that the vendors have a neoprene seal to replace the felt seals. That sounds better than ferules to me. Just my .02. Dave

If the gas tank is not rusty and varnished up,why clean it?If you have a non-leaking sediment bulb you are a lucky man.The old axiom---'if it ain't broke,don't fix it' enters my mind.When you get the front off the fuel bulb,there probably won't be any screen left anyway if it is an original.The last one I bought came from Ken Meek.If you must take it out you unbolt the brackets from the frame.Leave the brackets on the tank.

I've just acquired a '26 cowl-mount tank for my touring car (I have a very bad rust problem with the one in the car) which is currently at an auto tank service getting tested for leaks and cleaned. After hearing numerous horror stories about sealing tanks, I'm trying to avoid that.

The directions for removing and replacing the tank in the Model T Service manual look pretty simple, but some of the comments above sound like this may be more difficult than I'd hoped. As I've found on alot of Model T operations, the process is simple, but theory and practice don't always match.

Any comments or suggestions on dropping the old tank and inserting the new one?

Wayne,

I to have (had) the same problem with my original tank in '27 touring. Taking it out during restoration was not hard neither was putting it back in.
Please follow the directions in the manual (pulling the dash panel with the switch and ampmeter)Pull battery cable also!

It takes some fussing and twisting but it will go back in.

My question which I asked in an earlier thread:
What is the proper finish on the cowl tanks?
Galvanized (that's what mine was) or painted?
The replacement has been painted (black) Was there a difference between the closed cars and open ones?

When I put the cleaner replacement tank in I want it to be correct.
Anybody have a idea? Thanks.

Larry,

Thanks for the tips which I will follow.

The tank in my car currently is painted black, and the one replacing it is painted black as well. Both appear to be original paint, and not repainted.

Wanyne,

Thanks,
Interesting as the original in mine was old galvanized with no trace of paint and her tank to the best of knowledge had never been removed.
I've often wondered if there was a difference between the open and closed cars?
But I doubt Henry would have gone to that trouble?

Any body else?

On my early '26 runabout pickup the tank was painted a dull black.


If you look closely the tank is visible behind the switch plate opening.


Pretty sure the tank was never out, here is the back of the cowl showing the anti rattle webbing and the chalk numerals of an inspector.


Getting the tanks back into touring and runabouts is best with the dash panel out, and the trick is to twist in the gas outlet first [uh, be sure to remove the sediment bulb], getting it lined up and into the hole in the cowl is something you have to do then lift and twist the tank into place.