What should one expect to pay for a 1925 chassis. I have not seen it yet. I made a phone contact with the seller so far. I was told it is the frame with step brackets, full rear axle and front axle. There are no wheels, rims, motor or running gear. The seller wants $200. Does this sound to be a fair price for what is being offered???

Brian - It depends on the condition. Are the parts nice and clean, free of pits and do they have good paint on them? Or are they rusty, pitted, bent, etc.? With a frame, the side rails often sag between the front and the back end The side rails can also twist. These things can be repaired but it reduces the value. Do the ends of the axles turn easily when the ujoint is turned? When lifting the ends of the axles up and down, is there any play? Lots of Play? If so, the outer axle bearings are worn and should be replaced.

If all of these tests are ok and if the parts are clean and rust & pit free, then the $200.00 price is ok.

Fordially, Keith Gumbinger

I would say that's an o.k. price. If you buy all that separate it would cost more than $200. I bought a chassis in 1994 or 5 for $175. I bought one in 1994 for $50, so I guess it's just how good a deal you can get. Both had no wheels, well one had later 16" wheels welded to T hubs, the other had hubs. The rear axles in both were still full of oil and turned freely.

Brian,look for signs that this was made into a wagon or trailer. Not a deal breaker,but this increases the chances that things are wracked and sprung.Look at the front cross member to see if it is cracked or bulging out either side of the mount that holds the front spring to the frame.Look at the frame side rails where the front cross member attatches.Do the rails tilt out?Is the front cross member still attached with rivits or has it been bolted in?If the frame is splayed out the radiator and rear engine mounts will not line up.Also see if there is a driveshaft in the housing. Shake the front spindles while watching the nut on the bottom of the axle.If the nut moves the threads are bad in the bottom of the axle.See if the spring leaves have a severe wear pattern of the upper leaves worn into the lower.Also look at the spring shackles.Sure,they will be worn but are they worn into the perches?You can not expect perfection,either,but the heck of it is the majority of chassis like this are ones that have already been passed over as too rough.Thirty plus years ago,when I first started dragging this junk home I picked and chose among the stuff in the farm iron pile.I left the totally worn out lay and brought home the usable.But I learned fast if it was brass era stuff get it no matter how rough.Good luck!

I once paid 250 for a 1925 chassis, no engine, used as a hay wagon. It turned out to be a 1910 chassis, correct rear end and all.

Thanks for the info guys! I looked at the frame. It was in rough shape as it was sitting in a junk manure spreader for many years before it was finally rescued. The frame was heavily rusted, could not turn the drive shaft. The hubs were rusted to the point you could hardly see any nuts, they were just protrusions. The front cross member had welds on top of welds. The seller said he had 3 other buyers lined up if I did not take it. I told him I was going to keep looking and he should call the others. He then started to tell me that even parted out he could get more for it but did not want to bother doing that. I left feeling good that I did not take it. Thanks again for the help!