I bought a rad mount hardware set from Langs for my '25. Someone here a long time ago sent me a decent picture of how its supposed to go together. I think i have it in the right order from the below pic, but i have a few questions.
The fist flanged upper spring cap, is it supposed to go through the lower valance panel first, then the rad, then the upper shell then with the top cap on top of that?
Reason i ask is that the flanged spring cap does indeed fit through the hole on the rad, but not through the hole on the upper grille shell. The shell is original, but it seems i would have to open the hole some to make it work.
I have not tried the lower radiator valance panel yet, that too is a repro piece though.
Thanks again for the help.
--chad
Looks correct provided you have the right mount for the right year. Through 16 there was only a single spring. 17 forward uses two but I believe the stud is a bit longer for 26/27. First spring goes inside the frame channel. Second spring on top of frame channel. The flared thimble goes over top spring and accepts the holes in the radiator mounting flanges. Then the radiator shell, then the non-flared thimble, then the nut. Make sure you cotter key the stud below the nut plate.
If I remember correctly, the apron under the radiator only has a small hole in it which would fit over the stud. The upper spring goes on top of the apron, then the bottom thimble, then the radiator, then the shell, then the upper thimble, then the nut and cotter pin.
Dave S.
Sorry - forgot the apron on the 25. I have an early 23 sans apron.
So i need to open up the hole on my upper rad shell so it fits over the thinble is what you guys are saying. Thats weird being its an original part that i would have to modify that---of course its not original to the car though. Like i said it does fit in the rad hole just fine.
Didn't I read awhile back that you guys put a rubber pad between the rad and frame??
Chad,
Pictures available of your shell?
Steve, here are some pics. I also measured the hole in the radiator as .877" and the hole in the shell as .844". So i am only a little off, it sure seemed like alot more. But still it baffles me that i would have to open the hole on an original part---i would expect that on a repo, in fact i need to pull my repo shell out and check it. I may just put that one on instead (the repo one says Ford, Made In Canada---this is a canadian car, the one i have now is a US shell)
--chad
Chad,
Looks like mine. The flared thimble accepts the shell...it slides down over it just as the radiator does. The plain thimble then goes ON TOP on the shell, not through it. It holds it down. Are you saying the shell won't go over the flared thimble?
"Are you saying the shell won't go over the flared thimble?"
Yes, thats what i am saying. And its only a .033" difference in the shell hole and rad hole.
Chad
We had some trouble with the repro thimble also. They were a little big. Bubby Sharp made a tool to size the thimble. Just gave it a smack and shrunk it down. Leon