Hi all,
I finally got the engine back in my TT over labour weekend and have been putting all the necessary bits back on it, but have struck a problem with my reverse band. Seems that while I was putting the springs and nuts on the other two bands, the reverse band slid around the drum (kevlar soaked in transmission fluid sure is slippery!) and the ears have caught on the inside of the rib in the bottom of the pan (well I think that's what has happened). After hours of jiggling, I just cannot get it to rotate back. It will move the other way (clockwise facing forward)until the clip hits the lump on the inside of the casting for the pedal shaft but there isn't room to get it any further. I have tried to get a wire over the clip to pull it back but it is like using a lasso made of springs to catch a mosquito a 100 yards away on a dark night - I really do not want to have to take the hogshead off again - has this happened to anyone else and did you manage to solve it?

I'll post some progress pics of the TT as soon as I solve this!

Jeff

You may have to remove the other bands to get enough room to retreve it. There is enough room to maneuver the band end around and pull it out.
Patience, persistence and ingenuity will prevail. A hook on the end out of 3/16 steel rod may help.

Persistance has finally prevailed and all springs and nuts are in place. However, I have used the outside band adjusters and have a problem that the tab on the nuts are sitting higher than the slot in the clip on the bands as per photo. The bands need to be tighter to draw the end closer and higher so that the bolt sits lower. Is this because the Kevlar bands are thicker?? The way they are, you cannot adjust them without taking the transmission cover off as the tab on the nuts jams on the side of the clip. This sort of defeats the purpose. Any ideas??

It does not look like you soaked those bands in oil before you installed them. Make sure you pour oil directly onto the bands and try to get the oil between the bands and the drums or you may have a heat problem that can ruin the bands or crack a drum.

May not look like it but they were soaked in transmission oil for a week before installing.

Jeff

I don't know if its the picture or my screen but where are the washers?

Jeff

I don't have any experience with the "External" adj. shafts, these are replica of the old time Marshon(sp?) accessory band shafts with nuts on the outside of the hogshead.

Could be that those repro band shafts are just too long? Can you reposition the shaft farther out on the hogshead? And did you use the newest 'long' band springs sold for the Kevlar? That may be too much with this replica set of band adjusters.

The rest of your tranny sure looks nice....

Tman, with the external adjusters, there are no washers as they would get in the way of the tabs on the nuts.

Dan, I didn't know there were different length springs for the Kevlar bands but would that make a difference? There seems to be plenty of spring compression as is. Its the position of the fixed clip on the band that needs to move further in but that makes the bands too tight. I did wonder about flipping the tabs on the nuts 180 degrees so they are on the bottom. At present there is room to do this. But when they bed in there may not be enough room .

Jeff

Jeff

You may have the answer, or you could call Don Lang and ask who makes the External adjusters, and talk to the mfg. guy. He might know which way they fit. BTW, did these External adj shafts come with the instructions and which way did they say to fit the 'tab' nuts?

And there are 'long' springs for the Kevlar, Langs #3425BQ. I use them on Kevlar and Wood bands, makes the fit nice and good pedal travel and action.





Here is pic of the old version of these external shafts. Maybe they were made in the days of the non-eared band? Maybe the quick change band places the band lug different for the external shafts? Don't think so.

I have always just use the stock shafts on the pedals, new ones, and don't think much of removing the cover to adjust the bands, you can check the oil screen at the same time, and with Kevlar and Wood, there is very little adjusting to do anyway


1000 mile check with Quinn Wood bands...perfect..

Drive your car around the block a couple of times and you can cinch the bands up to their normal position. With Kevlar bands you should not need the external adjusters once they are seated. I have never needed extra long springs for the Kevlar bands. Initially, I have had to cinch them up 4 or 5 times before they are seated in.

Ted

The real advantage of the 'longer' band springs is on the brake band. See the gap in my picture in the last post on the brake with these long springs as compared to the seated reverse and low speed band?

Since I use Rocky's, the Rocky's come on first, but as I really press the brake pedal, the longer spring gap compresses and the wood lined brake band functions in stopping the car too. That way with the long spring, there is a good gap so that the wood [or Kevlar] brake lining doesn't drag creating too much heat on the iron drum.

To each his own,but if I knew I was driving a T without those washers to keep the nuts from backing off,my nether region would be in a constant pucker.If there is something stopping that from happening,somebody explain it.I'm having sympathy puckerings just seeing this.

I now see the locking tab on the reverse band.I did not know what was meant by tabs on nuts,since I could not see them.Glasses help.

Jim, The nuts cannot turn as the tabs welded on to them stop them from turning. Also, the nuts are some type of locknut that are really stiff to get done up.

Jeff