Does any one know if the bee hive style front Hassler shocks will work on a 27 touring? Les

Don't know about the fronts but my understanding is you need the pancake type on the rear for sure.

I saw beehives on the front of a 26 on a recent tour, rears definitely need pancakes.

Ernie

My 26 has the bee hive hasslers on the front. 27 should be the same. Can't say about the rear, I don't have 'em. Bob

My observation - (not an informed opinion )is that the pancakes have a lesser effect than the beehives and are used on the rear to clear the more intrusive crossmember on the '26-7 ,and on the front of the same years for conformity .I would therefore use them on the rear only and beehives on the front , if at all.
The rear end seems to me to need the most rigid control of rebound , to allow the front to oscillate on uneven surfaces - but without the use of dampers , hydraulic or friction , control of the vertical movement of the suspension is only damped by the inherent friction of leaf springs , coils having none .
Clear as mud .!!!
Victor - 1927 Pickup , 1915 Duncan and Fraser roadster.

Thank you all for the info.Les

The Hassler pancakes came out with the balloon tires, Hassler introduced them in late 1924. The design of the pancakes did away with the various beehive springs needed, the sedans and open cars used different beehives. So Hassler really got away from inventory of springs with the pancakes. "One model fits all Fords" !


September 1924


They will work on the pre-Improved car, and the Improved car. The Improved car rear with the long overhang of the crossmember does require the pancake.

I have a pr of rear 26-7 pancake hasslers just like Dans photo 375.00/pr plus UPS danuser88@socket.net

For what it may be worth to someone working with hasslers here is a post that I had put on a pervious years Forum. Sometimes pictures help.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/82485.html?1235244635

I am adding these 3 pictures. They may help to figures out what is going on.





Gene in Virginia Beach

Sorry about that. Here s another try
I am adding these 3 pictures. They may help to figures out what is going on.





Gene in Virginia Beach

Shoot! I keep getting timed-out messages and it goes to the Forum anyway.

I will be glad to email these 3 pictures to anyone dealing with Hasslers if interested.
They do help to clarify the placing of the boards used to finalize instillation of the Hassler setup. One of them is a pictures (with text) discussing which side which Perch goes on and why.
Gene

Interesting that this topic should come up. I have liked them so well on the front, I just restored and installed a set on the rear of my '26 Tudor. I had to do some grinding on them because they were rubbing on the brake drum, but discovered they still grind on turns when the car is fully loaded. The other problem is the ride height is now an inch too high. It's obvious from the design that the same design is not going to give the correct ride height for both small and large drums. I concluded mine are for a small drum. I guess I've got a set of rears for sale also. I've also reproduced the circular Hassler patent plates and have a few to spare.
Larry Young the CamMan

Larry they are the correct ones for 26-7 rears, but it looks like your rear spring has lost its arch?

It was level before I installed the Hasslers. It is now jacked up in the rear. If these are the correct ones, then the original design is flawed. This setup replaces the original spring perch. Small and large drum spring perches are not the same. How can one Hassler setup give the correct ride height for both? Answer: it can't.

I noticed the ad above says 1924. How could they have designed springs that are correct for the 1926?