Took first spin on the 26 this week end. Thought I could get by with a drag link from an earlier year T. I get great right turns but shallow left turns. Need help sourcing the correct length drag link. Been searching E-bay and bid on a couple but after they pased $75 gave up.

I'm also having some difficulty with the fan belt running to the rear. I moved the water pump pulley in and out on the shaft to see if that made a difference but it doesn't. Fan pulley is crowned and has lips but the belt rides almost half off the back side of the engine pulley. Engine pulley is not crowned.

Chester,

The lengths for the drag links are listed at: http://mtfca.com/encyclo/S-T.htm#scrod under Steering Connecting Rod. They all appear to be within an inch of each other. And at the end of the 1925 production to the 1926 production they may have had 3 different lengths? Do you think if the drag link was a 1/2 longer it would solve your problem or do you think there may be some other issue making things worse?

I would suspect that Mark at Model T Haven would have one see: http://www.modelthaven.com/npbs.html and look down the list for the 1926-1927 drag link used. You could also put a “Wanted Ad” on the MTFCA “For Sale” site.

Respectfully submitted,

Hap Tucker 19l5 Model T Ford touring cut off and made into a pickup truck and l907 Model S Runabout. Sumter SC.

Chester,
I think I have a few of those, What length do you think you will need? Before you jump to that as a fix though, Are you certain that your steering shaft is not twisted. I had one that was eitehr twisted or the keyway in the wrong place that acted exactly like you describe.

I think I also have a lower pulley.

Let me know if I can help. You might want to PM me since I dont check the forum every day.

Tom

The right side is pretty much fixed so with the steering wheel centered, the right front wheel should have 1/2 the total toe-in (3/32-1/8"). If it doesn't then you can determine the length you need by measuring from the steering ball arm (T-3547) to spindle connecting rod ball with the right wheel toe-in set. Then adjust the left wheel toe in using the spindle connecting rod adjusting yoke. Total toe-in should be 3/16 - 1/4".

But first, make sure your front and rear springs are centered and the chassis is sitting level. (Both frame rails the same distance from the ground, side-to-side at the front and rear.) A pitch in the frame will cause your problem too.

Chester -- This is from the Encyclopedia:

At the introduction of and for the 1926 models, the length was 31.125—31.250”.

I have a nice 31-1/8" one I don't need. Email me by clicking on my name.

Am I the only one noticing there is no body mounted on this chassis and that the front spring is practically not compressed? As the frame lowers, the point to point distance from the ball on the pitman arm to the ball on tie rod will decrease and allow greater travel to the left. This will mean that the shorter drag link he has on the car now will have less of an effect.

From the Encyclopedia: In August 1925 (the beginning of the 1926 model year) the length was 31.125—31.250”.

On 10-7-25, about 2 months later, the draglink was lengthened to 30.812—30.875. Almost 5/8" longer.

I suspect that this change had to do with drag link geometry changing as a result of the introduction of the new 26/27 spring, which effectivly lowered the pitman arm to the tierod. The front spring seems to be the only part changed on the "improved" car that could have had an impact on the drag link geometry since all other lowering was accomplished at the wheels with the spindles and tire size change.

I suspect Ford discovered that the turning radius was asymmetrical as a result of the changes to the "improved" car and by lengthening the drag link they could compensate for the problem. I'm not sure this problem would be noticed in normal driving though.

I also forgot to mention that the steering bracket was changed in 26 as well to accomidate the change in angle of the steering column, which must have also impacted the geometry of the pitman arm.

I see from Chester's picture above that he's not using the 26/27 firewall and thus must not be using the 26/27 steering bracket as the angel would be off when using an earlier firewall.

I wonder how this is impacting the overall setup?

I believe only the 26/27 fordors retained the earlier firewalls, correct?

The 26-27 Fordor firewall is different from the earlier cars in that it is part of the cowl and lacks provisions for a coil box. The steering column angle is the same as previous versions, the firewall is not.

I am using a 26-27 steering colum and steering bracket. I drilled new holes lower in the fire wall and enlarged the center openening to accomodate the 26 steering colum. This is a temporary set up so that I could test run the engine and drive train without having to mount the cab. My drag link is in the 30" range and when wheels are pointed strait ahead, the pitman arm points to the right wheel instead of pointing strait down. I'm pretty sure that with a drag link length of 31 1/8 -1/4" everything would work out. My toe in might not be perfect but is pretty close and I don't believ that it is creating the problem.