Kingston L4 help needed

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2009: Kingston L4 help needed
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Kekacs on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 06:18 pm:

How do you remove the throttle and choke levers?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 06:21 pm:

You have to take the pins out of the choke plate and throttle plate. Then remove the plates. Usually a bent wire through the holes. Then the shaft comes out with the levers.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Kekacs on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 06:26 pm:

I tried that but they would not come out? Do I need to tap them out with a punch?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 07:39 pm:

Will they turn? You need to soak in solvent for a few days and try again.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Kekacs on Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 03:13 pm:

Ok got that problem fixed! Now does anyone have intructions for rebuilding this carb? I bought a gasket kit from langs but not sure were all the gaskets go. Also not sure which way the flapper goes back in rounded or flat side facing top of carb?

Thanks.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gordon Byers on Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 05:42 pm:

David, the flapper sits with the flat side up, the curve fits the curve in the body of the carb. Gaskets... going from memory here.... one under the bowl nut, one under the drain on the bowl, the large one between the bowl and the body, and if you changed the needle and seat there will be one under the seat. There should be a felt or cork bumper that fits in the fitting screwed into the top of the body. Make sure ALL of the passages are clear. I believe if you search L4 carbs in the forum you might find further info.
Gordon


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steven Thum on Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 06:09 pm:

This is an email I sent to another member that has a problem L-4.

If it just floods you need to check a few things. First check the float. Shake it next to your ear, if you hear anything rattling around, or sloshing around, inside the float it needs to be fixed. To fix it just drill a small whole in the top and bottom of the float and let it drain. Then solder the bottom whole shut. Using a small piece of flex able hose blow into the top whole while holding the float under water. Solder any spot were there are bubbles coming out.
Next replace the needle and seat. Don’t use a gros jet! If you have one in there now, that may be your problem. It has been my experience that the gros jet inlet valve will jam with just the slightest dirt particle. Use the old style needle and seat. If it jams it is very easy to clean out.
Make sure that the float is level when you hold the carb upside down and level. Float placement is very important.
Make sure there is no rust out on the bottom of the bowl. Carbs sitting for a long time can have rust wholes in them. Remember gas will leak out a whole that water will not leak out of.
There is a whole at the bottom of a L-4 that goes up under the brass flap inside the throat of the carb. Make sure this whole and passage is free and clean. Use some stiff wire to clean it if you need to.
When putting the bowl back on the carb make sure the bottom of the bowl is flat around the whole. Some times the metal around the whole is bent up. Just lay it on a flat metal surface and take a drift that is larger than the whole and hammer the metal flat. You may need to use two thin washers to put the bowl back on, one between the nut and the bowl, and one between the stud and bowl.

I hope this helps. If you need any further info please don’t hesitate to email me


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Kekacs on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 11:01 pm:

Only thing I can't figure out is the piece of felt? If I used the cork does this mean I don't need the felt?

Thanks for everyones help


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Putnam on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 11:11 pm:

The felt is the gas line packing.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 11:16 pm:

Here is a pic and some info scanned on the L-4

pci here

pic here


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Kekacs on Thursday, November 26, 2009 - 01:24 pm:

Thanks for all the help everyone. Carb is back on car but float is not working properly as gas just pours out of the overflow hole. I have tried both the needle and seat and a modern replacement but no difference. I checked the float using the hot water method but did not see any bubbles so I am going to try the new briggs & Stratton float I saw in another post. will let you know how it works out.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Kekacs on Thursday, November 26, 2009 - 02:48 pm:

Here is a pic of the carb I tried to rebuild.
file


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Thursday, November 26, 2009 - 03:38 pm:

A couple of problems you could have. One is the tab you bend to set the float level. You need to turn the carb upside down and measure the distance between the top (which will be at the bottom when it is upside down) from the top of the float. You bend the tab to get 7/16 inch.That is how you set the float level. Another possible problem and which a new float will not fix. is a crack in the cast iron where the needle seat fits to the carburetor body. If it is cracked, the needle will not stop the fuel from leaking.
Norm


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