Any Quick Tips to get more speed. Today my GPS clocked my top speed at 35 MPH. I suppose not to bad for a big fordor. I could be driving the darn thing wrong since I am self taught. Its pretty much a stock engine. I do have a water pump which I probably do not need but I don't have the parts to convert to a non water pump. How many MPH is that taking from me?
Mr. Locke, you are fixing to get more advice than you ever wanted, and here is a snippet. A four door is not the fastest of T's, it is bigger and heavier. Your 35 MPH is not that bad, it is a realistic figure for a basic, stock T with probably a lot of miles. I am guessing that since you are self taught that you may not be advancing the spark (the thing on the left side of the steering column), in my experience most new drivers do not have that part of driving down. When you get the car up and moving good, pull the spark lever down till you find you car's sweet spot. Try that and get back to us before you start putting on Z heads and etc. Remember, the faster you go, the longer it takes to stop one of these things. The water pump issue is also going to generate a lot of comments, it does not affect your speed that much, if any.
Your post did not say what year car, so I had to go to your profile to see what you had.
4:1 gears were dealer option on heavier cars in hilly/mountainous regions by 1926. They give you a lower top speed with a stock engine, as will 3:1 gears.
35 mph in a fordor is as fast as I would want to go. Remember, you have to stop that thing.
To answer your question, in my experience, a Stipe cam (250) and a balanced engine give best results. When I say balanced, I mean dynamically balanced crank, flywheel and static balanced rods (both ends) pistons, trans drums and triple gears. The result is very little engine vibration resulting in higher speeds.
I also like a Ricardo head. Others have had very good luck installing a Z head. I found quite an increase in power with a Z head, but an accompanying increase in vibration which I personally didn't like. The car I tried it in did not have balanced components. I suspect that made a difference. Other items that help are a straight thru NH carb and Chaffins high volume intake manifold.
I recall a heavy bodied car I had ran slow with stock components but a whole lot stronger and faster with a Ricardo head, a straight thru NH, a high volume intake manifold and a Stipe 250 cam.
One more thing, since I started doing my own valve jobs, the performance on my cars has increased appreciably. Don't expect a shop to take the time necessay to get things right. It rarely happens. I could tell you some stories.
One old guy's opinion: 35 is fast enough. I haven't driven a closed car, but 30 mph in my touring is a nice, comfortable speed. That's on paved roads. On dirt roads 20-25 is better.
I can make it go faster.
My 26 Fordor with the old worn engine could just hit 42. With the fresh engine it will do a hair shy of 50. I don't like it doing that but it can.
The faster a Model T goes the sooner the crank will break. They were never meant to go much faster than 30 at cruising speed. A steady diet of 35MPH plus will shorten the life of the engine in something as heavy as a sedan.
The same is not true of a speedster, the lighter weight results in less stress on the crank. There are good cranks and bad cranks. Most Model T era forgings have flaws in the part from the machining process or from the metallurgy that hasten the demise of the parts.
Its a 1927. RUCKSTELL Rear end and Rocky mountain brakes. Im ok with 35. I just though it should be going more like 45 at full speed.
Thanks for the info guys.
Jeremy, the Ruckstell is not an overdrive, direct and underdrive for better hill climbing but it won't do anything for speed. As Royce says unless its a speedster 30/35 is usually fast enough, i have had my coupe up to fifty but that was in overdrive on a short stretch of Interstate trying to get to the first exit, very spooky.
You could do a little check over to be sure your engine is operating to full potential. Clean or replace plugs, have coils checked/rebuilt on HCCT, check timing and clean/replace the timer, check valve lash, clean out gas sediment bowl, check or rebuild carb, etc. Then check the bands so none are dragging, and brakes too.
That way you know you have everything working well.
On tour this summer, a new owner of a nicely redone '27 touring complained his car wasn't up to speed. He was right....after a check of the carb linkage showed the throttle butterfly wouldn't open up half way...he was throttle starved. Corrected that and he was very
I checked your profile. You live in Upland Ca and there are quite a few flat roads there. Also some very steep mountains. The Ruckstell was intended to give you more lower gears for mountain climbing. It can, however, be geared 3/1 to give more speed on level and less power up hill. Living where you do, I think you would do best with 3.68/1 standard gear ratio. With the weight of a fordor, you need the power rather than speed. A good tune up of the coils, good valves and rings will do wonders. With the top heavy fordor you don't want to take corners very fast or you could tip over. Just keep it to 30 mph and stay off the freeways and you will be doing very well.
I've always loved the story of horsecars in Upland. They were pulled by mules. The mule would pull the car up the main drag to the north end of the line, all uphill, then stand on a platform at the end of the car and ride downhill to the south end of the line.
I had a center door sedan a bit over a decade ago. I freshened the engine myself. It all looked stock, right down to the cast iron pistons. 3.63 to 1 gears and nothing much else. Was clocked twice at 55mph. Don't know how or why it was that fast, but it was a lot more scary than the race car I had near 80.
Also, with a sedan, be careful of the "bunny hop" rear end bounce on fast turns, did it once.
I agree with Dan! First check that all systems are operating to thier full potential. Amazing what a tune up of the electrical and fuel sytems will do! After that you may want to look for a few extra bolt on horsepower with a Z head and the bigger inlet and ehaust manifolds. Remember that your sedan is probably trhe heaviest T that was built so performance suffers accordingly. Does anyone know the weights of the various model lines through the years?? I have a Z head on my Sedan and it was the best improvement I could have made. I was not looking for outright speed, just the ability to maintain some momentum on the hills which the head helped with. I like to cruise around 35-40 which my car will maintain all day.
Are you running a magneto or battery?
If batt, 6 volts may be restricting you. 12 volts should be OK. (commentary in opposition is ok).
Check compression?? With and without oil added?
My Touring with 1/8" off the low head will do 50 easily. I'm on a distributer.