I know Stevens made a lot of special workshop tools for the T back in the good 'ol days.
Just wonder if anyone has come across these ones before, because I haven't!
Saw these for sale on the Australian Ebay.
With the low value of their currency compared to to ours, kinda makes these tools pretty cheap.
The Ebay item numbers for those who are interested are:-
Item number: 370297548822
Item number: 370297561495
The other picture for the other Stevens Tool is here - I hope!
My best guess is the T-181 tool is for chasing the threads on the hubs. Could easily be wrong. I have no idea what the other tool is used for. Someone on here will know for sure what the tools are designed to do.
I'd love to have the hub tool, but the current bid is $227.51 US. Too rich for me.
Steve, if you enlarge the image the groves for the thread cutting edges are toast. It is a wall hanger collectible more then something to use in your shop....in my humble opinion.
That makes it even more too rich for me.
.The second tool is for checking twist and straightness of the con rods. But it is only a very small part of the package. I will try and post a picture of the rest of it tomorow.
Jay, Maybe filing/grinding the cutting edge would help??
I hope I can post some pictures of the fixture that uses the tool in the second picture. I will also try and post a picture for you of a tool that is far superior to your first tool
This is the picture of the fixture, before the con rod is installed. By the way this fixture is a KRWilson but is almost identical to the Stevens.
This next picture is with the a con rod and piston pin istalled on the fixture.
The next picture is the piece you have sitting on the piston pin checking for bend.
The last picture is checking for a twist in the rod.
This picture from the auctions shows the threads in good shape.
Was it common for con rods to be twisted/distorted? I have a knock in my motor that disappears when you short out No.2 spark plug or retard the spark a bit. I have used plastigage to assertain that the big end bearing clearance is good. Motor was rebuilt in 2005.
It has been suggested to me that the con rod may be twisted and the rod is traveling across the journal on each stroke creating a knock. The old engine had a bent valve. Damaged con rod?
That Hub tool is WAY OVER PRICED - I bought mine on ebay for 28.00 about 2 years ago. You can find them all the time at swap meets for about the same.
Go back and look at the first picture of the hub tool. The other two sets of thread chasers are almost non-existent.
I've been going to flea markets & swap meets for 30 years an have never seen one of those hub thread chasers ever turn up at all, never mind what the price may be.
They'd sure be a handy tool to have when you need it!
I emailed the seller of that hub tool, & he sent back that all the cutting teeth are definitely good clean sharp & none broken. Said he was a tool maker himself so knew what was a good set of teeth.
I guess if you wants it, you just gots to pay da price....!
Find me one of those Travis and I will definately make it worth your while !
Travis - make that an order for 2 of those hub threading tools !
I'll put my hand up for one as well !
I'm even seriously thinkin' about a bid on that Ebay one...!
I will buy up the ones I find this may at the swap meet in Lawrence Kansas. I really do see 3-5 of these every year at swap meets. But I spend a ton of time diggin in box's of tools looking for the 5z's and other stevensons.
Here is my invoice from my last bit of stevens tools I bought and it shows the quanty and price paid total.
S T-122 PULLER - STEVENS TOOL Puller for Rear Driveshaft sleeve $75.00
S T-181 FIXTURE - STEVENS TOOL Wheel Thread Chaser $104.00
I had 3 of them left but sold them tonight - thanks to this topic. I let them go for 35 each plus shipping. I guess I will watch this auction and if this gets bought I will up the price on mine too. If not then it just shows what I am saying - it is over priced. Most of you guys did not know what this tool was until the subject came up earlier this year... I guess that made a demand for the tool.
People think these model t tools are "hard to find" NOT SO - just look around, dig in every tool box and cardboard box at antique stores, flee markets and swap meets. I drop cards everywhere with notice that I pay CASH for model T tools.
This will show you what I pay for the other tools I buy - this is my latest invoice for a batch of tools I bought this week = price is EACH.
5Z-152 "L" SOCKET WRENCH Rear Axle Housing Bolt & Nuts $10.61
5Z-153 "L" SOCKET WRENCH Crankshaft Bearing Bolt $20.17
5Z-154 "L" SOCKET WRENCH Body Bracket Bolt $20.17
5Z-157 "L" SOCKET WRENCH #4 Connecting Rod $20.17
5Z-159 "T" SOCKET WRENCH Connecting Rods $20.17
5Z-160 "T" SOCKET WRENCH 9/16, 9-1/4" Long $20.17
5Z-195 OPEN END WRENCH 9/16, 7-1/2" Long $20.17
5Z-204 OPEN END WRENCH Exhaust Pack Nut $27.05
5Z-209 OPEN END WRENCH Connecting Rod Clamp Screw $20.17
5Z-210 OPEN END WRENCH Flywheel Cap Screw $17.00
5Z-287 PULLER Rear Wheels $50.00
NOT ORIGINAL 5Z-313 FIXTURE Installing Roller Bearing Cups $70.00
5Z-314 PULLER Transimssion???? $50.00
5Z-319-1 FIXTURE KIT Valve Spring Lifter $20.17
5Z-319-2 FIXTURE KIT Vale Spring Lifter hook $10.00
5Z-324 RACHET WRENCH Transmission Band Adjustment $0.00
5Z-326 PULLER Transmission & Small Timing Gear $56.92
5Z-806 DOUBLE END WRENCH Generator Third Brush Adjusting $17.00
5Z-817 DOUBLE END WRENCH Carburetor, Generator Bolts $17.00
5Z-829 DOUBLE END RACHET WRENCH Transmission Bands, Crankcase Drain Plug $20.00
5Z-1080 SPRING PERCH NUT WRENCH Spring perch nut removal and installition. $43.00
D-1 DRIVER Installing Drive Shaft Bushing $10.00
D-2 DRIVER Removing Spring Shackle Bushings $2.50
F-1 FIXTURE Model T Engine Stand Adapter $45.00
F-2 FIXTURE Removing / Installing Rear Axel Sleeves $10.00
F-3 FIXTURE Timing Cover Alignment $15.00
F-4 FIXTURE Bolt Holder for Drilling Pin Holes $10.00
F-5 Fixture Coil Checker $49.00
FK-1 FIXTURE KIT Engine Hoists For Spark Plug Holes $15.00
FK-2 FIXTURE KIT Removing Drive Shaft Bushing $25.00
FK-3 FIXTURE KIT Removing Front Axel Spindle Bushings $35.00
G-1 SUCTION GUN Removing / Installing Rear End Grease $18.00
M-17 TONGS Engine Hoists For Whole Block $0.00
RIV-1 RIVITER Riveting Hand Break Linings $16.12
Dave, I was wondering how the con rod alignment tool worked. Had me puzzled until you posted the picture of the fixture.
I would like to show you an OWATONNA THREAD CHASER I use for my thread chaser. My threat chaser is fairly old but they are still listed in the large tool catalogs. I mostly use it for exhaust manifolds and wheel hubs. One or two swipes and you can put the hub cap on with your hands.
This is another picture of the thread chaser. Unfortunatly the light has washed out the threads that I was using yesterday to chase threads. The threads are still very good.
This is a better shot that shows some of the threads. There are 16 different threads on the chaser. You just take the stud out and change to the thread that you want.
Some one in your local club probably has one.
I forgot to say that the handle is adjustable so that you can change the diameter to any size you want. If the first swipe does not cut to the depth you want you just tighten the chaser and swipe one more time.
You asked how rods get bent or twisted. The popular thought is that some one does not use a piston vise or a thin pin in the vise. If you do not have or someone you know does not have a piston vise you can put a pin small enough to go through the center of the wrist pin and tighten the piston pin bolt. I think another way they get twisted and or bent is trying to force a stuck piston out of a rusted motor. Please see the piston vice below. They were made by several different companies. One popular one was the ZIM company. The one in the picture below just says SERVICE STATION SUPPLY COMPANY. I have used both and they both work good.
Side of vice below.
That OWATONNA THREAD CHASER Dave has looks like a much better tool then this stevenson.
And for only $66 online, gonna buy one of those!!
Well there goes another ebay item advertised on here I won't be able to afford.....!
If its banned to place your own adds on the forum how is it fair to place ads for ebay on here? As per my previous comments on this forum all it does is push up the price because then everyone knows about it
Hey Alex, I don't think Pete is advertising his own piece. He noticed it on eBay and brought it to our attention. I don't see anything wrong with that. I agree that making everyone aware of something being offered tends to raise prices. Whether that's a good or bad thing, though, depends on whether you're buying or selling. In this case, the seller himself set the minimum bid at AU$250, its not the result of too many people knowing about it.
Hey Ernie, where'd you find the thread chaser. I'd like to get one too!
Thanks Ernie, I just ordered one.
Hello all, especially Richard & Ernie !
As someone who has has used those Thread Chasers in the past in the course of my work, I can tell you, they are next to useless & more often than not do more damage to the threaded part than they fix!
They will only follow the existing thread.
If that thread is partially cross threaded - for example on the rear hub as a result of damage from using a wheel puller, as often happens - these Chaser tools will just follow that crossed thread! Making the damage worse! One totally ruined hub!
The Chaser will only follow (or "chase") an existing thread, hence the name.
They are not any use in "correcting" a crossed thread!
The Thread Chasers only work well on really coarse pitch threads - like on big pipes - that have maybe 8 threads per inch, etc.
Those Thread Chasers are no good at all on fine pitch threads like T hubs which are 24 teeth per inch.
The threads on Ford hubs are too fine to hold the one Tread Chaser cutter edge into the hub threads. The Thread Chaser tool just wanders off the proper Ford thread & cuts it's own new thread path!
These Thread Chasers are no match for a proper die. A proper die will always track true on a thread as it's always cutting with 3, 4 or more sets of teeth evenly spaced right the way around, & in correct alignment.
That's why those Stevens hub threaders have 4 sets of cutting teeth & they go right around the hub threads.
Those Thread Chasers are no substitute for a proper die or Stevens tool (if you can get one at the right price!).
Don't waste your $65.00 on a Thread Chaser that will only destroy the hub!
Take it from someone who has used a Thread Chasers on a Model T hub & only succeeded in ruining the Hub!
Don't start either your Stevens Tool or a thread chaser on the outer end of the treads. Start at least in the middle or even better almost all the way in. When you have made a circle or two, tighten the handle and that will let you cut deeper. If your threads are too badly damaged I am not sure anything will heal them. I find my hubs and even most of my exhaust manifolds only need a touch up. The thread chaser works real good for that type of operation. I have many good hubs in my iron pile so I can choose any one I want. If you get up this way I would be glad to give you some of them that are not damaged or cross threaded.