I recently removed my generator for rebuild and found the drive/pinion gear was worn enough to warrent replacement. I got to thinking I should check the large time gear and found it seems to be plastic. It is from the 1970s or earlier based on the history of my 26 touring. I feel I should replace this and am thinking of using the aluminum gear..
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Metal gears are noisy. Aluminum has been the loudest for my ears. We sell a nylon gear. Contact me off forum if you want one.
There is nothing wrong with the nylon gears being marketed. Many will compare them to the GM timing gears of the 70's that were steel with plastic/nylon teeth but is isn't an accurate comparison.
The gear you don't want is the fiber gear. While they are quite when running they are even more so when (not if) the teeth strip.
I would take Tim up on that and ask him to advance it 1/2 tooth. Your T will do better on its low end and give it more hill climbing ability.
I agree with Gary.
Tim's nylon gear, 1/2 tooth advance, is a quiet runner & gives a little more pep on the low speed.
See if you can rock the timing gear by hand through the generator hole, if it is tight leave it alone, if there is excessive backlash then consider replacing both the large and small gears at the same time. You may have to turn the engine 45-90 degrees and keep trying untill you can find a spot where the valve springs are not fighting you and giving a false indication of a tight fitting gear.
What you probably have is an early fiber gear, which is not prone to fail. The later production ones were made differently, and sure to strip.
The original Ford gear may be a good bet, but I dunno, I run noisy bronze - until the next teardown.
I have run fibre gears with no problems for years. Perhaps they were the old gears that Ralph alludes to. Looking at the new ones they seen to be the same. IF you install them properly with the correct lash and with all three gears new they have been fine for me. Installing a new cam gear against a worn crank or generator gear with incorrect lash and it will fail and perhaps quickly. I have seen too many people just bolt the generator on with a used gear and not check the gear mesh and then blame the fibre cam gear. Your experience may be different. Certainly the metal gears will tolerate a sloppier installation but they will talk to you.
I'm louder than you, R.D. But, then again, how many of us have heard what our grandfathers heard? I obtained a NOS pair of spur gears and used them when rebuilding the '14 engine. I feel I've not lost a thing in acceleration or any performance factor and the 'Singer sewing machine' effect warms my nostalgic soul.
Because there is so much wear on the generator pinion gear and the large time gear, I suppose I should replace all three. What is the best way to get a good seal on everything up front around the crank shaft and gear covers?
Any suggestions on easiest way to drive on the time gear to the crank in the car? I have the ford book but sometimes there have been other ways you all may have found or tried.
Thanks again, Erich
You realize of course that you need to lift the block loose from the pan to change the crank gear! And while it is claimed you can do this in the car it wouldn't be my choice. I would suggest that it is time to lift the engine out of the car and hang it on the engine stand upside down. It is the perfect time to check all your bearing clearances. Maybe O ring your pedal shafts and generally fix/reduce the oil leaks and be ready for next years tour.
In regards to the quality of the gears, generally you pay for what you get.
Do it once, do it right tends to pay off.
That sems like the way to go, as always. It is tuff being cheap. Some areas it just doesn't pay to go cheap.
You can install a new crank shaft gear by heating it to about 300 deg F and it will slide on the crank nose. It is a good idea to have a piece of aluminum or brass tube to tap on to fully seat the gear against the shoulder. You will need a puller to remove the old gear. Do not try to drive the gear on or off with a drift or punch.