Can someone who knows the T Transmission inside and out contact me. It is much easier to talk to a person than posting back and forth.You can E-Mail me your contact info. or contact me @ SST1225 or 302-834-7035 Thanks Mario
Are you having problems with the transmission in the car, are you rebuilding one or what?
It's more fun to post back and forth. Plus everyone has an opportunity to learn. What kind of problem do you have?
Let me edit that e-mail address SST1225@verizon.net. The transmission is in the car. While it may be fun to post back and forth and others may learn, I may not. To be fair to all after it is repaired i will post the symptoms and the applicable repair. Thanks Mario.
If you were rebuilding a transmission, I'd offer to help, but I don't have any special expertise diagnosing transmission problems in the car. Any T guy should be able to help you there. If it were me, I'd want to hear from as many folks as possible.
My transmission has conked out, driving along stopped at a stop sign, seemed to be slipping then quit completely. Is it a big job to change belts, where do I start?
Start by buying the Ford service manual available at all the usual suppliers. Mac's is probably close to you but there is possibly someone in Canada near you.
What year is your car? some of the procedures changed over the years.
Begin by carefully removing the inspection cover (the trapezoid shaped cover) on the top of the transmission. Take a couple of good digital pictures and post them.
Ideally you should find a local T "friend" with experience to HELP you do it (not do it for you or you will learn nothing)
If you are a new owner then some T driving lessons might be in order to make the bands last longer after you have fixed it.
Same for you, some good digital pictures will give us something to go on. Lots of us know these cars well but I sure don't want to point you in the wrong direction
We have a 1922 Model T Coupe, have been restoring it for some time, Machined the head replaced manifold gaskets and rebuild the carberator, in addition to stripping it to the frame, sandblasting and powdercoating all removable parts, re-doing body and upholstry. Drove it a fair amount this summer since restoring it, and a bit since 93. Getting lessons would be nice but I have yet to find anyone that knows how to drive a T. Have owned it since 1993. I don't know any "T" friends here but will definitely be picking up the manual at Mac's.
I wonder if you broke the pinion gear in the differential? Or some other critical point between the engine and the rear axle, like the U-joint or the drive shaft itself. Your description of it quitting at a stop sign sounds more like that.
If it was a transmission problem likely the car would still have the ability to drive in high gear which is simply the engine connected directly to the rear axle.
The transmission in a Model T really does three things.
1. It provides low gear
2. It provides reverse
3. It provides a brake (pedal operated)
The clutch is located inside the transmission and provides a fourth function. The clutch does one thing - provide neutral. In other words, the clutch disengages direct (high) connection between the engine and the rear axle. It does nothing else.
Do you have any of the four things above functioning properly?
I have taken the cover off the transmission and adjusted the Brake, Reverse and Forward adjustments. The clutch does not seem to be engaging. If I push on forward or reverse peddle or put it high gear and turn the engine over nothing happens, or it does not attempt to move the vehicle. It actually didn't break down at the stop sign , I was able to drive about half a block after stopping but it felt like it was slipping.
I took some photos,not sure how to get them on my message. I have read posting pitures instructions but have not been or can no find prompt for attachments or the (\image) phrase.
If you put the car in high gear and turn over the engine the car does not move?
If that is the case maybe confirm by getting in the car and with the trans cover off and the car in high gear turn it over with the starter (with the key off) and watch what happens down below. If the output shaft turns then Royce has likely nailed it!!
Certainly it is likely rear axle related and could be a sheared pinion key or similar.
If the trouble is in the drivetrain behind the transmission, your car would coast more freely than normal. If you don't have any auxillary brakes, the only way you could stop would be the parking brake.
It sounds like the trouble is not in the transmission. Are you a member of a local T club? It is time to call in some experienced on site help.
Try these instructions for adding your photos.
I used them for attaching these instructions as a jpg file.
Thanks for all the responses. I believe I have found the problem. I jacketed the car up took off rear wheel so I could check what was happening between transmission and rear axle.
Royce you were right the, the rear axle hub "key" was sheared in half so the wheel spun freely. Norm you were right, I didn't have any auxilary brakes. I am now trying to find the right hub key, may have to take a trip to Mac's... (Les I'll pick up Servive manual). A.J. I'll try the "photo upload" instructions. Les,I am not a member of local T club, I just joined the International Model T club. I'll hve to find out if there is a local club around here.
I'll try Image again.
Photo size too large will work on that later thanks to all again.
Good that you have it figured out. I believe the key is 5/16" square x about 3" long. You should be able to buy a foot of key stock at any bearing or perhaps farm supply store (look in your yellow pages). Please confirm the width I might be wrong. Obviously the hub has been loose so you may need to make a shim from a beer can (or perhaps thicker) to make the hub fit in the right location, otherwise the brake shoes will rub on the side of the brake drum. Please check for rubbing there. You need to torque the axle nut as tight as you reasonably can. I would suggest about 80-100 ft lbs. If the threads won't take it then you need to know now, not after your wheel falls off on the road.
Macs will sell you a special tapered shim as well and of course if the axle threads are crap then new axles might be in order. This a common problem (wear on the axle and in the hub from the nut not being tight enough). If you don't have wear there then that is great. Of course also check the other side for tightness. This is a good opportunity to check for leaks in your rear hubs.
What year is your car?
I was able to pick up two proper size rear axle hub keys at Twiss Collector Car parts in Milton this morning. There does not appear to be any wear on the axle and the threads are good. It appears that the nut was tight as parts of the cutter pin were still in the hub cap with what looked like a fresh break from towing it home. Got it all together and running again. I'm going to change other side also. There was no leak in this rear hub. The car was made in Canada and registered as a 1923 (don't know when), But according to Mac's Auto, it is a 1922, as it has a rounded doors, I have to have this checked out and corrected. Photo of car now on my profile, it is a photo taken before upholstery was finished and before the roof was on. I painted first coat, going to have it painted professionaly next spring.
Nice looking car. Yes I suspect it is pre '23 as well with the "suicide" type doors.
Maybe send a private message to Hap with your serial number. I believe he has most of the serial number data. It might be earlier yet.
Or perhaps it has a '23 engine in it (not uncommon for the engine to be changed)
Good on you for fixing it yourself.
The hub key was 1/4" square X approx 3" long.
Thanks, I'm sorry but who is or where do I contact Hap?
go to the posting " A few questions you can probably answer in your sleep!" he has posted there recently.
Well at least I had the length right (grin!!)