T2511C-Oil Retainer Seal

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2009: T2511C-Oil Retainer Seal
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steven Augustinovich on Sunday, December 06, 2009 - 09:20 am:

I'm repairing of rear axle of my '14 Touring that was dropped last January. Installation of the Oil Retainer Seal has become a problem. Once it's in the sleeve & bearing will not fit. Their about 1/16 inch too long. I have used this type of seal before with no problem on my 23 T's. It appears the leather is too thick. Anyone else have a problem with these?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Gould on Sunday, December 06, 2009 - 10:35 am:

Here's what I do. Take the sleeve out and grind off just enough so the end of the sleeve is flush with the end of the axel tube when installed . I wrap a piece of tape around the sleeve as a guide so I grind off the correct amount evenly. Avoil grinding off the end that pertrudes from the tube since you want to make sure the dimple in the sleeve seats in the hole.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les Schubert on Sunday, December 06, 2009 - 01:06 pm:

Steven I ran into the same problem on my '13. I think there was no thought of a inboard seal when these were built. I thought about Richard's solution but it seemed to me like the end of the roller bearings were going to scrape on the seal washer. Before you grind off the sleeve I would satisfy myself that that is not going to be the case. I ultimately went with the full floating rear axle bearings.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steven Augustinovich on Sunday, December 06, 2009 - 01:26 pm:

The bearings stick out too, so shorting the sleeves would not help. Looking at the new improved methods the vendors have. Do the six bolts that hold the drive shaft to the housing get wired together instead if cotter pins?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Gelfer on Sunday, December 06, 2009 - 01:32 pm:

There isn't room in the early axles for the leather, but there is an easier way to make it work than grinding the sleeves shorter. I taped the seal to a plastic medicine bottle, with the outer protruding part sticking into the bottle. This makes a little handle to hold it. I sanded the back side of the leather on a belt sander, carefully rotating it while sanding. Take it nice and slow, and get pretty thin. I took off about 2/3 of it. My sleeves seated, and the axles don't leak. I did not use the metal springs when installing, so I don't know how long they will hold up. I put about 750 miles on them this summer, and they are OK.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By jack daron-Indy. on Sunday, December 06, 2009 - 01:43 pm:

Steve,yes those nuts on the drive shaft housing are safty wired after installed.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steven Augustinovich on Sunday, December 06, 2009 - 02:38 pm:

Thanks Jack! That's what I figured!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steven Augustinovich on Monday, December 07, 2009 - 10:42 am:

Hey John. Why do the vendors list these seals as 09-27 when they don't work in 14's. Rather than sand the leather down I'm going to try the neoprene seal and aluminum outer seal.


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