Cam bearing lose in block

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2009: Cam bearing lose in block
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Shirley on Monday, December 07, 2009 - 10:59 pm:

Has anyone used a coke can to make a shim take up slack between the front cam bearing and the block? Checked the front of the cam,it was .030 bent, got it within .002 but found the front bearing was about .012 lose in the block. Used a alunium coke can and made a rap around shim. a


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Tuesday, December 08, 2009 - 01:09 am:

Is the block worn or is it the cam bearing outside diameter? If its the cam bearing then get another. If I were to shim the block bore I would be tempted to grease the cam bearing surface and clean the block bore, bearing od and shim, then apply the wicking green Loctite after assembly. Make sure the cam turns freely after assembly. Its unlikely the wear is symmetrical and you might shim a bind in the assembly.

If the cam is worn I would have it reground before I put the engine back together. I would also use new 2 wrench adjustable tappets. Norfleet in Dallas, TX will regrind the cam and do a good job for a reasonable price.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky on Tuesday, December 08, 2009 - 01:55 am:

I would find out what's off. If it's the bearings, get new ones as Ted mentions. Measure the cam bearing block bores. It it's the block, there's ways of repairing it without using tin-cans and glue.

#1 - 1.374-1.375
#2 - 1.372-1.373
#3 - 0.9985-1.000


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon on Tuesday, December 08, 2009 - 03:24 am:

A friend of mine, many years ago, used soda can metal to make shims. The aluminum was too soft and beat itself out. He got about ten miles before trouble started. Real brass shim stock would be better (but not as good as doing it right as others have properly suggested).
I do sometimes use spray paint can metal to make shims. It is pretty tough stuff. Makes good rear axle shims. But I agree, if you can, fix it right.
W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Tuesday, December 08, 2009 - 03:03 pm:

The reason for the Loctite is to keep the assembly from working back and forth and wearing out the shim.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les Schubert on Tuesday, December 08, 2009 - 05:10 pm:

Wayne
I am surprised by your statement. IF the cap or what ever was bolted down tight and doesn't "squirm" I would be really surprised to see it fail. I have seen can aluminum used successfully for rear hub taper shims.
Bob
Because it will be difficult to keep things from squirming around perhaps can aluminum wouldn't be the best choice for this application


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Shirley on Tuesday, December 08, 2009 - 07:36 pm:

Thanks for your replys, I chickened out on the soda can. I took it apart and the bearing measured 1.365. Wire brushd a carb cleaner can to get paint off the outside and it is .007. Went to Shreveport and while there stoped in a bearing dealer and got a roll of .004 steel shim stock. Its a 6X100 inch roll so if anyone needs any, let me know. b


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Tuesday, December 08, 2009 - 11:10 pm:

Using Ken's dimensions, the problem is your bearing is worn undersize. Why don't you replace the cam bearing. Doing the machine work on the block and patching the cam bearing don't seem consistent.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Shirley on Wednesday, December 09, 2009 - 03:10 am:

Sorry, I posted the wrong picture.


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