One or two of you wonderful chaps have kindly supplied me with photos of these top irons, (the ones inside the body tub, but underneath the upholstery). Now I need to know if anyone has made any replacement irons, and if so can I buy a set, please? Any info on a supplier or capable blacksmith will be very gratefully received.
Special thanks to Jeff Daron, Herb Iffrig, Roger Byrne, Andrew Brand and Trent Boggess for their help. I don't know how we'd manage without you, fellers.
Anybody? Anybody?? Please??? Pretty please???/
John Boorinakis makes the top sockets for any Model T. You can figure on at least a twelve month wait from the time you order. John stays busy!
you might try ray wells (the craftsman). he makes reproduction bodies which i believe include the irons you are referring to in your post.
Pretty sure Ray Wells buys all his top sockets from John.
I'm 90% sure David wants the body irons that the top sockets would bolt to and not the top sockets. David -- you might want to clarify if you want the body irons that the top sockets would bolt to -- such as: http://www.rootlieb.com/html_files/mt_bdy_hw/mt_bdy.html those are also available from Lang's as well as other vendors. You weld those parts onto the regular flat bar stock to make the body irons/top irons that are needed. See Lang's http://www.modeltford.com/pl.aspx?t=s&v=3850C&page=1 and http://www.modeltford.com/pl.aspx?t=s&v=3850RA&page=1 Which is 3850RA -- Body bracket, receiver for part 3850A. This is the top portion of the body bracket only, it needs be to welded onto the inner steel upright inside of body.
Sorry the Lang’s on-line catalog did not have pictures. But in their printed catalog their
3850RA sketch looks like the one from Rootlieb’s photo shown below:
Lang’s 3850C looks very similar to the part on Trent's torpedo that the top sockets pivot on. I believe it is the same as the one below from the Rootlieb’s photo:
It has that curve which is seen on many 1911 Torpedo Roadsters as shown below:
Note that the Red torpedo roadster with the original body on Trent's web site at: http://oz.plymouth.edu/~trentb/ModelT/Torpedo2/TorJune16Y2K.html had a different style bracket which is shown below:
I would recommend e-mailing Trish at Lang's and asking her what combination would be correct for the 1911 Torpedo. Or ask Rootlieb -- as they used to reproduce the 1911 Torpedo bodies.
Hap Tucker l9l5 Model T Ford touring cut off and made into a pickup truck and l907 Model S Runabout. Sumter SC.
You're right, Hap, it's the irons that are positioned inside the tub, and which protrude over the armrest, and which go inside down to the floor, which I need. I have the tubular irons OK, and the sticks to go in them.
I have obtained photos from one or two of you lovely people of what the inner irons look like, and now I need to find someone who has fabricated them before, and can make another correct set for me.
I think the short bits you show, Hap, are, on their own, not man enough for the job they have to do. I may be wrong but I don't want to find out the hard way that they were inadequate for use.
I have obtained the little brass castings you show, (Snyders P65, LH column, lowest two items), and drilled and screwed them in, but I'm not happy with them. BTW, how do I weld these brass casings to steel strip uprights? My Rootleib body already has some iron supports forming the bottom bit of these inner irons, but I don't know how to weld Iron to Brass.
David to weld the new brass castings to the iron straps that are bolted to the platform under the seat you would want to braze the pieces together.
The originals were most likely forgings and made in one piece. I think I would bolt everything in place and get the proper alignment. Then you would have to take it apart to do the brazing because the heat would damage the wood. Brazing is done with an acetylene torch by getting the two parts red hot and melting a brass brazing rod between the two pieces, effectively "glueing" them together.
Since you say that you did not know how to do this I would recommend that you have it done by a welding shop. The trick of it that I see would be getting the alignment right. That being not having the part come out too long or too short to fit in the proper locations.Perhaps you could take the body to the shop or have them come to you for the proper "tweeking" that it might need. I hope I have explained this adequately for you.