Moving a T for 1st time in 30 years

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2009: Moving a T for 1st time in 30 years
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Nugent on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 10:11 pm:

I am getting my 1918 T tomorrow and am pretty clueless about hauling it. I don;t want to create any damage by not doing this move correct. Where should the pedels and handstick be placed to move on a flatbed truck. Where is best place to hook up - I do not know the anatomy of a T. I am an past muscle car man. Any hints or suggestions will be appreciated. This car is all origional with no rust or damage. Was running when garaged 40 years ago. It was cranked 30 years ago.

Thanks
Mark


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Edward J. Baudoux on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 10:19 pm:

If it is "stock", you want to pull the handle back all the way, then use the squeeze lever to let it forward. You will see the left pedal come up as you move the lever forward. Now do it again, and stop at the point just before the left pedal starts to come up. This is as close to a nuetral as a stock T gets.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Nugent on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 10:28 pm:

Thanks. Is this also the position that I would put it in when I crank it?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mr. Steve on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 10:55 pm:

Pull the lever as far aft as it will go. That will be neutral with the parking brake engaged. Although I suspect that there might not be any actual braking action due to grease covered shoes. Chock those wheels! Good luck.

Steve


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Hjortnaes, Men Falls,WI on Tuesday, December 15, 2009 - 01:45 pm:

I am not an expert, but it has been suggested in the past to attach the tie downs to the springs and not the axles.

I agree with Mr Steve. Pull the brake lever all the way back to lock the emergency brake, and chocking the wheels does not hurt either.

If you go to the top of the forum and look under keyword search, you will find many discussions re: hauling. On the second line, remember to change 'or' to 'and' so it will search correctly.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Tuesday, December 15, 2009 - 03:32 pm:

I like to use 4 tie downs on each side. I attach the front to the axle just toward the center from the wishbone. The other end is attached to the front corner of the trailer, or flatbed. I then use another strap from the same locations to the outside center of the trailer or flatbed. That way the axle will not slide in any direction and there is no pull against the wishbone ball joint at the crankcase. On the rear wheels I attach in the same way with the strap at the rear axle next to the backing plate. That way the car is supported on its own springs and will ride as it normally would. If you attach the tie downs to the springs or the frame, you will have the following problem. When you hit a bump, the car will go down loosening the tiedown, and when it goes up it will abruptly stop when the tiedown gets snug. This makes for a very uncomfortable ride with a lot of bumping up and down as you travel along.

I used the method I advocated at the top of this post to transport my car from Alpine Ca (near San Diego) to and back from Kanab Utah. Everything worked smoothly.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Will Copeland on Tuesday, December 15, 2009 - 03:43 pm:

You will want to have the lever all the way toward the rear of the car when you crank start it. This will apply the rear brakes. Note> The car may still move foward if it starts so be carfull. If it were me and it was my first time starting the car I would chain the rear of the car to a truck the first time starting it. Some model T's have a habbit of moving foward when they first start. Both of mine included. It might save you from getting run over by your own car or chasing it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donald Conklin on Tuesday, December 15, 2009 - 08:00 pm:

For the initial start put the rear axle on jack stands and pull the parking brake lever back just enough to put the car in neutral with out activating the parking brake. It will crank easier with no danger of the vehicle moving.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick - (2) '26's - Bartow, FL on Thursday, December 17, 2009 - 08:22 am:

If you have your girlfriend sit in the driver's seat and press the C pedal halfway down (emergency brake lever should be forward) and steer while you and another friend push it up onto the trailer, that would be the way to go. She will really get a big kick out of helping and it will spark in her, an interest, that will make her less likely to complain about all the time you are spending in the garage. Make sure she lets up on the pedal as soon as you yell for her to stop. That will halt the forward motion. Jim Pastrick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Thursday, December 17, 2009 - 01:28 pm:

Don't tighten those straps too tight, or you will bend the axle.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jeff Versteeg on Thursday, December 17, 2009 - 02:30 pm:

Note that if this has not been stored well, it may not roll in neutral. In this case, pull the rear wheels off, take out the axle keys and replace the wheels. Now it will roll no matter what's going on with the transmission or rear end. I've had to do this with cars that have been stored outside.


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