I'm still knocking around this speedster idea. From what I've read, back in the day, they lowered them anywhere from 4-7 inches. The roads are better today than back then, but you will have the occasional speed bump. What is a practical amount to lower a speedster today?
I saw somewhere on this forum a comment that a soda can just fitting under the oil drain plug was a good rule of thumb.
I have lowered my car 4 inches. Looks racy and still has plenty of clearence. However, I could not have gone lower much more, maybe an inch or two, without hitting the oil pan drain plug rolling it onto my trailer. I have 30 inch wheels with oversized tires.
Per Calif law. it can't have any part lower than the rims, so you can legally do 3 1/2 inches here.
I have lowered speedsters 7 1/2 inches . I do have to add a block under the ramps on my trailer so the oil pan dosen't hit . I have gone lower but ripped the fitting going into the drain plug off on one of my cars that was lowered almost 9 inches . It does look kool lowered that much .Got to watch for pot holes with that one .
Our car has been "Z'ed" about 4 inches in the rear and the rear has spring has "flipped eyes", witch lowers is about another inch.
The pan is close, but clears speed pumps just fine.
The pan comes within a hair of hitting our open trailer, but clears our closed trailer just fine. You just have to watch the ramp angle when loading the car onto a trailer.
You can see the "Z" in the first photo and how close the pan is in the second photo.
I agree with Tyrone and Thomas. I ripped the drain plug out of my old speedster loading it up one rainy day. Made a heck of a mess.
The whole deck of my trailer tilts so loading an "in the weeds speedster would not be a problem".
Here are a couple of photos of the way a fellow club member, Murray Walkemeyer, lowered one of his speedsters.
If you cut the flywheel down to 12", like recommended by Frontenac, you could lower it more.
How much is this one lowered?
Mine is 5" in the rear, and 6" in the front...
rick, how cutting down the flywheel allow more clearence between drain plg and ground?
Tyrone, Frontenac made their own special pans. When I was lowering mine, I found that the most you could lower it without getting into a lot of problems with things like the hand crank and the steering linkage was 5 inches. I have not driven on this set up, just had it together and it still had a good amount of clearance. At this height, you shouldn't have to worry about the pan at all.
You could then cut down or adjust the pan and not worry about hitting it on something.
When you start lowering you will have to think about the radius rod geometry. If you lower past a point, you will no longer be able to connect the radius rod to the torque tube like on a stock T. The same applies to the front axle.
I dropped my Racer 7" both front & rear.
my speedster is about 8.5" lower and yes I hit my drain plug on a speedbump, lucky no damage though. I would do 4-7 inches if I built another one.
"I saw somewhere on this forum a comment that a soda can just fitting under the oil drain plug was a good rule of thumb."
....well, if I stomp on the can first then mine will go over it .... but not before!
Highway#1 in my neck of the woods is a joke and an embarrassment, so I can't even enjoy it there .... gotta find a new neighborhood in the city somewheres with fresh, flat blacktop!
If you lower an otherwise stock chassis more than 5 inches you will have gearoil running from the differential down the driveshaft to the transmission unless you raise the motor and transmisson some.
I lowered the 3 I built 5 inches.
Thanks guys. Seems to be 5" is sounding about right.
I've been helping a friend with his speedster with fenders. It has a 2-1/2" dropped axle and I think 26-27 spindles. The rear end has some Z-brackets that he had cut out of solid aluminum block. The problem he has is the fenders hitting the tires. It looks to me like what needed to be done was either the fender irons and running board brackets needed massaged or, the fenders needed to be bent a little more. If this was not done, the fenders would point up into the air. Hal, I don't think you said anything about fenders, but that is what we've run into. With a couple of us "large" types (420 lbs total) in the seats, the rear fenders are rubbing the fenders on a bump.
Vern, Maybe you did this but on the rootlieb kits which is what looks like your fenders they say to bend the front fender irons farther down than the stock ones and they make special ones for the back. Maybe you guys did this, it just doesn't look like you did. I like the headlights on that car.
Hank Becker's Hillclimb racer has reason for split wishbone:
I take it you mean to unbend the bend at the top of the iron and rebend it closer to the end? I think that is what needs to be done...or at least that would be a start. I think the rear has roadster irons that were rebend but not bent at the right place. We've added a 1-1/2" block where the irons fit onto the rear deck as a quick fix to try and raise the rear fenders but it still isn't enough. The lights are original E&J's which I think someone is starting to repo.
I don't intend to use any fenders, so that will not be a problem.
This has just become my new wallpaper
installing a atwater distributor,how do i put the cam gear on whem end of my cam has a pin for the timer the cam gear ahas a keyway i hope mine will look half as good as those in the pictures
Curtis - you can usually use the same pin from the timer roller for the distributor drive gear.
Steve thanks for getting back to me relealy nice car,the speedster i'm working on has rojo head and exhaust ,the pin looks like it has to be filed a bit on the edge to get it to fit and about a 9/16 spacer what do you think
Thanks - I run a BB RAJO w/twin ignition. Filing for width will work fine and you do need a spacer - I believe I have a loose on to measure - get back to you.
i have the old A head i thought about seeing if it could be drilled and tapped for another set of plugs and run a harley dual fir ignition coil
I have posted pictures for your possible amusement of my chassis modifications on Hal's Radius rod thread. The pictures also give and idea of how low you can go. Regards Gary Bausch