I am a newbie to this forum looking for a 26 wide Brake Drum for a transmission. I recently purchase a 26 model T coupe not knowing much about them. I ran across problems when I took the motor and tranny out. I wanted to check everything to make sure I had a sound motor and transmission. I first realize a problem when I took the tranny cover plate off to check the linings. Only to find a narrow brake drum. Then after I have taken the motor apart to find bigger problems. Someone had put in a 1919 motor and tranny according to the serial numbers. Thats why the bands were all narrow. They used the 26 hogshead on this I guess to keep the pedals the same. I am glad I did take the motor apart to only find more problems. The babbitts for the mains are bad. The mag needs replacing, the pistons and valves are worn. I will have to get a complete engine rebuild. Well Effingham Regrind is going to do the babbitts. And a speed shop close to home will do the cylinders and valves. I need to find a 26 wide brake drum that is good. Please let me know.
This is Steven and I am helping Gary and his son with this project. As I under stand it this car was bought because his 16 year old son was very interested in model T's. Gary's son visited with several of us at a couple of the local car shows and his knowledge of Model T's and his desire to own one was impressive. I have tried locally to aquire a 26 brake drum with no luck. Remember when you were 16 how little money you had? Well Gary's son is in the same boat. If you can help it would be appreciated.
Thanks Steven for the support. Maybe someone can help. I am taking the motor into the shop tomorrow morning so they can start on this next week. Until than I can keep looking for a drum.
Does the hogshead (trans cover) have the two ears sticking up behind the engine where the two bolts would go if it had a '26 engine?
Are you sure a wide drum will fit.
Maybe it just has '26 pedals on a 1919 trans.
Yes it does have the two extra ears on the hogshead and the 26 style pedals and bands with removable ears. All three bands are the same width also. I think the wide drum will fit, but I am not completely shure. If we put in the wider drum will that change anything between the driven plate and ballcap?
If you don't have a four dip pan,you will also need one of those. I have some extras.
Yes the wide drum will fit. The wide drum is needed to make the band fit correctly.
Gary, You will also need the clutch pressure plate as this is different from the earlier pressure plates.
The drive plate is different also. The hole pattern is different for one and the later drive plate does not have the lip on the flange mounting surface.
Thanks Guys for the help. I have already contacted Jack about the dip pan. Now we know what we have to do. All we need is finding these parts. If anyone has any of these parts please let us know. I believe I can purchase some of these from langs or synider's. Steven Thum has helped us out alot on this car with good advice and let us use some of his personal tools. I am not asking for any parts free and we are not in this to make money. We did get a good deal on this car I believe, and can afford to fix it right. This has been quite a experience for both of us, which is good to only keep this era going. This car will be handed down to the younger generation to keep this history alive. Someday this will be back on the road!
Gary I emailed Thum last eve, no contact yet , I have the 3 drums, or a complete 26-7 eng, trans, or 26-7 block bare or almost anything you might need in Fulton Mo email@example.com
I forwarded your email to Gary.
If you add a 26/27 brake drum, you will also need a 26/27 driving plate, and 26/27 style clutch discs. You might be talking about $300 worth of parts.
If you are doing a "budget" overhaul, you might consider just using a 1919 to 1925 transmission cover and band which can be had probably for free if you look around a little. That should solve your problem.
1926-1927 wide brake drums are fairly desireable. I've seen real good ones go for well over $200. If you buy one, make sure that it is not undersize where the gear presses on. The gear needs to be a good press fit.
I would run over to Fulton and swap the whole enchilada.
If you are going to the effort to rebabbit, and have the cylinders bored and new pistons and valves installed, I would suggest obtaining a 1926 engine & transmission and starting from there. The cost of babbit, line boring, cylinder boring, pistons, etc. is the same for the 1919 or a 1926 assembly. If you are planning to keep it in the family -- the only difference in cost would be the expense of obtaining the later engine & transmission assembly. You may check and find that is too much of an increase in cost for your current budget (we’ve all been there on one or more projects), but unless you check, you will never know. And you may be able to save money in other areas (while not used on your 1926 coupe, we have a club member here that will remove your old Ward’s clincher tire if he is allowed to keep the tire etc.). And he runs them without any problems.
Hap Tucker l9l5 Model T Ford touring cut off and made into a pickup truck and l907 Model S Runabout. Sumter SC.
He called me today for the drum, band and end plate, said he'd already taken the 19 block to have it processed? so I guess his 26 will be titled as a 19?? as the serial number is what its based on
I don't know how it works in your state, but here in California, you can take your car in for inspection and if you have a different year engine than the car, you can just change the engine number and use the year model for the body. I have a 22 with a 25 engine in it and I got it registered as a 22
Norm, it's the same thing here.