So, I have a question about the valve on my car. It seeps slightly while turned off. Not around the packing, but through the valve and into the carb, and well, on to the floor.
Now, I am cheap. Cheap like Jack Benny.
I don't want to spend a bundle on this, so I am wondering if I can just replace the packing, and lap the existing valve plug into the sediment bowl with toothpaste or something else commonly available. I don't really want to have to order the timesaver lapping compound from the vendors. Can I buy something like that from NAPA? I am just worried that it will take forever to lap out the tiny grooves in the valve plug.
I am planning on taking the sediment bowl off the car, and flushing it with kerosene afterwards.
I see you can guy the kit that has the new plug, felt and such but its darn near the cost of the repop valve.
If you're going to take the valve off and lap it, then clean it before putting it back on, then ordinary valve lapping compound should work just fine. It comes in little cans, some with lids on both ends - one for coarse, one for fine. Any auto shop that has been around a while should have a can or two lying around and will probably give you a finger-full. They hardly ever use it any more.
I have a whole dang can of valve lapping compound. I use it to sharpen my reel mower, it never occurred to me to use it for this. I figured it would be too course. I drained the tank tonight, so maybe I'll give it a shot in the morning.
After you lap in the valve use bar soap to lube the valve. The soap will jell when the gas hits it and act as a lubricant and a seal. This soap jell will last for years. I like to use Fels Naptha soap.
When I first brought my 27 Tudor home and put it in the garage, I shut the fuel valve off and went in the house for the night. The next morning, I found the tank empty and the garage floor covered with gas!
Thank God the car was sitting 6 feet away from an ELECTRIC water heater.
I decided then and there to replace the original shut off valve with a modern ball valve. There are just some things where I think safety trumps originality.
Mr. Halpin has it right, I have always replaced the original valve with a "modern" one from a Farm Supply type store. The shut off is positive, and the glass bowl catches the water and trash right out of the tank before it has a chance to get to the carburetor.
Oh, I was planning on putting a modern shut off after it, I really like the look of the old one, its right under the hood and all.
you might find the repop valve does the same thing. Let us know how the lapping works. If you have a good carburetor the gas should not get on the floor, and you would only notice your valve is leaking if you disconnect the fuel line. Your leak is either a crack in the inlet to the carburetor, or a leaky float valve, or maybe dirt stuck in the float valve. Hopefully it is the float valve and not a crack. Anyway after you fix the valve at the sediment bowl, you should also find out why the carburetor is leaking and fix it too.
Valve laping compound sounds a little too abrasive to me. Why not try toothpaste, or the fine Time Saver?
I had the same problem with my 26 T. I ruined one valve by using valve grinding compound, too course. The best lapping compound was yellow timesaver followed by applying a thin layer of aircraft fuel valve lube. A heavy layer of valve lube plugged up the fuel line the first time I tried it.
Where can you purchase the yellow timesaver and the fuel valve lube?
Thanks in advance.
Larry Bohlen, '27 touring
Use a John Deere AM3100T sediment bowl/shut off valve if it gets too annoying. Once a year I might have to tighten the gland nut a fraction of a turn.
Well, I looked around in the shop, and found some lapping powders in my tool box! I had bought them years ago for lapping my hand planes flat.
I used 180x, and 400x. I mixed these with some oil to make a paste. Then autosol metal polish (paste). I started with the 180x, as the valve plug had a great deal of scoring in it.
I flushed and cleaned it with kerosene between each grit, and afterwards.
What really made it fast, was at Mr. Crenshaw's suggestion, I used my variable speed drill to turn the plug, and rub soap on it to lube it.
I am proud to say, that the valve does not leak gasoline.
However, I had to take so much off the plug to get rid of the scoring, that I wonder if it will deliver enough gas now. I drove the car today, and had no trouble, so I will worry about that later. I did drive with the throttle pretty well open, then was no sign that I wasn't getting enough fuel.
Thanks for your help everyone.
I actually drove the car over to Gary Clarke's, turns out that he both lives about two miles from me, and also has a '26 coupe!