We just installed a rebuilt engine that had been sitting up for at least four years. The engine is excessively tight. We have taken out the plugs and put oil in the cylinders but no appreciable effect.
It is an act of congress to turn the motor over.
Any suggestions? Could the sitting up have congealed things that much? Or could the bands just possibly be too tight...we are starting troubleshooting at our next workday.
Another rebuilt engine by the same folks but started much earlier, about three years earlier, and runs fine.
Al
alsumrall2001@yahoo.com
pioneerflightmuseum.org

Leave it in high (ie, release the emergency brake) and jack up one rear wheel. The clutch dragging may be your source. It would be normal to be very difficult to turn over with the crank. I have been able to turn engines I have rebuilt with the starter and get them going. If the bearings were assembled dry, it would be unlikely you could turn them over and they would likely burn out if you got it started.

Nice site:
http://pioneerflightmuseum.org/vehicles/modelT.shtml

If all else fails, you might try pulling it with another vehicle. That will let the oil circulate and get everything lubed up and help loosen it up. Might be a good idea to put a little bit of oil in each cylinder first. Dave

My brother in law had an engine rebuilt, had engine in car and he passed away. In the early spring we got it started, had a guy standing on the crank and a 12 v battery on starter as it was very tight. After starting it and letting it cool off several times over the next month or two it loosened up and has been fine ever since. Some rebuilders build them tighter than others I do know that.
In your case I would get it started and let it cool a few times and see if you can tell if it is loosening up. My guess is it will loosen up.

Lubrication is key here. The idea of pulling it in high is a very good idea since it will as stated above, circulate the oil and get lubrication to the bearings.
What must not happen is that the babbit bearings get so hot so they virtually melt!
Pull the car som 100 feet without the ignition and then switch ignistion on and get it to fire.
NOTE: Make sure the brakes work! And have a fairly long rope for pulling, because once it fires you may not have you attention on the road ahead of you :-)
Let it go in a fast idle for 5 minuttes and observe the temperature of the water. Then let it cool 15 minuttes and pull it again and repeat this some 2-3 times.
Now it should be possible to crank it either by hand or starter or both.
The bearings are often only in contact with the shaft at 40 - 60% of the surface, so it will quickly be "grinded off" to a larger area.
The piston rings will take longer time, but done right and with patiance you can get a very fine engine for many miles.

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quote:

What must not happen is that the babbit bearings get so hot so they virtually melt!

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When the factory put them together the engine was run on a big electric motor for a while so they could get it to turn over and start after they installed them in the cars.
When I got my first T the engine had been rebuilt and never installed.
I used a 12 volt battery and the hand crank to get it to turn over and start the first time. After running it 3 or 4 times it would start with starter or handcrank very easily.
I had to tear it down a couple years later and the babbit was all just fine. The flywheel was rubbing on the field coils.
That was in the late 80's and it's still running just fine.

If the crank is put in on a rebuild with a bunch of grease it will plug the oil holes--this is bad if they use high temp. lithum lube that won't melt out before the oil can run down the holes in the block to the mains.

On a new and tight motor it is good to pull them with a tow strap with the plugs out and in high gear with ignition off for maybe a 1/4 mile... on the first few runs I like to add chain saw oil or something similar to the gas and run the motor in the yard with a garden hose in the radiator and leave the lower petcock open so everything stays cool. This is a good time to also re-torque the head bolts.

I am no professional engine rebuilder but am sure that it is a bad practice to bed the crank (or rods) with a tube of axle grease that will plug up the holes--there are assembly lubes for that. The last thing you want is for a new motor to get hot and grab babbit. Oil is slippery but grease isn't designed for this.

Tim Moore

When my '16 was too tight to hand crank after a rebuild, I put 5 quarts of oil in (yes - I over filled it), and towed it for about a mile or so. Slowly at first then about 25 MPH. I adjusted the oil level and it hand cranked easily.

Be_Zero_Be

When I got my '15, in pieces, the engine had been rebuilt 30 years prior and stored with about 8 quarts of oil in it. When I got the car home, I drained the oil and put in the right grade and amount. It would not turn over. I pulled the plugs, and could see brand new aluminum pistons and clean, rust free cylinders with a cheapie bore scope. I squirted some ATF down the holes and put the plugs back in. About two weeks later, I had the car pretty much assembled mechanically and plumbed and wired. I went to see if the engine would turn over, and I could just barely move the crank. I pushed it down to 6:30 with my FOOT,and then grabbed it and started to pull it up past 9 o'clock,(It would barely move)-- and the darn thing fired right up, belching smoke, scaring the bejesus out of me, etc. I ran over to open the doors of the shed, advanced the spark, played with the mixture, and ran it for about 30 minutes. After that, it turned over fine. Funny, I was just at the stage where I was going to pull the plugs and tow it around the neighborhood to free it up. I had a friend coming over the following morning to do just that!!