I had a conversation with Sage Ron Patterson on how to improve my method of magnet charging. He advised I build a better "mouse trap" to do the job. With Rons direction and a couple spools of 10 guage wire, some items from the shop, I came up with a charger that does a fine job of recharging. Thanks Ron!
Actually I think the nickel plated handles were correct for that year. Of course that is only for the chargers that used the black insulated wire and not brown insulation. Nice job guys! How many batteries do you hook up to that sucker?
2 X 12, 24 volts Dan. JP
Hmm, laminated oak base--isn't that post '21??
how about some "how I did it" info? The switch base, for instance, is interetsing--is that an indicator lamp on the front side?
Tell us some more about the metal core parts. Where did you get te soft iron pole pieces?
I'm with Dave on the how you did it, and the parts needed.
Jack ; nice magnet charger, you talk about 10 guage is that the same as A.W.G.or Gauge
10 AWG is the same as 5.26 mm ,2. how long is that wire and what did you use for the centre.
can you use 24 volt from a battery charger ?
Have a good 2010 Toon
... should have a sign attached warning users to leave all credit cards atleast two blocks away !!
I will try to answer the questions about the build of the magnet charger. If I miss one remind me, I don't mean to skip over a question.
The wire used is 10 AWG stranded, insulted single conducter wire. The wire was purchased in two spools of 100 ft. each. I got lucky here, it was a closeout sale 70% off, and it came on a plastic spool I would could utilize. Toon, I don't know how the size translates into a metric size. I did rewind the wire on the spools as it was not "neat and pretty" from the manufacturer.
The metal core in the spool is a piece of 1 1/2" diameter mild steel. Noting special here, just what I had, a piece of shafting. I cut two 6 inch long pieces for the cores. These were drilled an tapped on both ends for 3/8 x 2 flat head slotted stove bolts. There are 3 pieces of 3/4 x 1 1/2 bar stock required. One 6 inch piece, not visible in the photo, connects the two cores on the bottom. Two shorter pieces, visible on top, bring the magnetic field closer together so that a magnet will contact the field for charging.
The switch base, the ultimate usage of a piece of junk! It is the bottom part of a broken zone valve from hot water furnace system. The copper core you see is a 2001 U.S. penny, it is filling the hole left from the removal of the copper water pipe. I needed to raise the switch to have room to get it wired and it was almost 1 inch below the togle lever. I did not have room in the laminated oak boards to get every thing in its place. You could use any thing that gives you room to mount your switch. The switch I used was a 50 amp momentary contact type from the local auto supply store.
Very nice Jack.