Just completed building a 1909 engine. This has been a learning experience. Having sold these early parts from time to time, I was well aware that they are valuable because they are rare. I can tell you they are rare for a reason. They are a real pain in the ass to work with. I can see why people scrapped them as soon as better parts came out.
The one piece pan gave me fits getting aligned on my KRW pan jig. Most pans I can align in less than 30 minutes. This one kept me busy for hours. They are limber as a wet noodle and just as predictable. Make one adjustment and other things change. I can't see how one would keep in alignment on 1909 roads.
You haven't lived until you have worked with the bands through a square hole trans cover. The cover itself was a huge project to get to fit properly, but it is a repro part, so it is not to blame for that.
The one bright spot was that it was a breeze to install the valves. lots of room to work with on an open valve block.
An interesting project, but now I have the greatest respect for guys who work with these very early T's
Fordially, Erik

Please click on my name to send a PM, Erik.

rdr

Erik,
A useful addition, although not 100 percent authentic are the reinforcing plates/brackets that go in the corner of the pan on the underside where the block meets the trans cover. These are the style that were on the 26/27 4 dip pans and are available from some of the parts vendors. When putting our 1901 engine back togehter we felt a little better with thes in place as it kept things a little stiffer in that area.
Warwick.

Eric, you really hit the nail on the head. I spent a ton of time with my 1910 pan. One thing to add, the early pans don't fit a pan jig because they are too narrow. To straighten them side to side, you must rely on cross measurements between the trans bolt holes, sort of like checking to see if a frame is sprung. The first time I tried to install the nuts and washers on the pedal shafts through the small square opening in the trans cover, the neighbors called the police there was so much swearing.
coming from my garage.
The 26-27 stiffeners will help a bit, but the flange on one arm needs to be ground off to fit, resulting in a much weaker support.
Re the running of the car, I think the gyroscopic affect of the spinning flywheel helps straighten out misalignment of the fourth main caused by sag from the flexible pan.
My 1910 runs as good as if not better than any T I have owned, the only upgrades were alum pistons and a Stipe 250 cam. I run a 5 ball which is a damn good carb if you can cure the gas drip and dial in the float height. Potters addition of a gross jet with a set screw float adjustment is the way to go.

I've got an 11 pan on my 09, with the sloping door alloy hogshead. I was thinking of getting a repro square door hogshead, which I am told are designed to fit either width of pan. Just how was that cover tricky to fit?

Erik, send me a PM because I see you are not set up to accept them. I have a couple questions about your KRW pan straightening outfit. Thanks!

Thanks for the input guys. I will put a pair of the stiffeners on this engine. This was a wide style pan so it is compatible with the KRW jig.
The trans cover required attention in the area of the bore that fits over the machined step on the rear of the block which forms the seal between the two parts. I machined the bore a little larger and narrower because it would touch the block causing distortion of the pan when I bolted it down. Also, I shortened the protrusion of the boss for the threaded low band adjustment screw as it was a little too long and resulted in a tight low band at assembly.
The pan jig is a demanding taskmaster. The pan is either perfect or it is not. It should be mentioned that this is a later pan fitted with a one piece welded insert, so it required correction more intense than an original.
Fordially, Erik