Hand break adjustment

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2009: Hand break adjustment
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By alain on Friday, April 10, 2009 - 11:38 pm:

Hi, i would like to know how to adjust the hand break links vs the hand break lever. I've never driven a T before and i did'nt understand the mechanism of the left pedal vs the hand break lever vs the breaks. I ordered a dvd that explains how to drive a T but i did'nt receive it yet. Mine is not ready to be driven anyway but i want to understand how it works excatly.
Thank's for any help.
1915 touring


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Saturday, April 11, 2009 - 11:37 am:

Jack up the rear wheels and put on stands. take out the clevis pins under the cross shaft below the hand brake lever. Pull back the lever part way and you will see the clutch lever move. That is the shaft at the rear of the transmission. It has a bolt pointed toward a cam on the brake cross shaft. When this lever starts to move the brake handle should be about half way in it's travel. Then as you continue to move the brake lever back, it will begin to apply the brake.

You will now adjust the clevis on the end of each brake rod so that both wheels stop at the same time. You can turn the wheels by hand and as you pull the lever they should get tighter at each notch. Both should be the same tightness and when you get to the notch where you can't move the wheel anymore, both should reach that point at the same notch of the lever. Now when you put the lever half way back the neutral is engaged but the wheels continue to turn freely. And when you pull the lever farther back the wheels stop.
When you reach that point, tighten the jam nuts and put in the cotter pins. Lower the car and try it out. It should slide both wheels at the same point when you pull the brake hard.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By alain on Saturday, April 11, 2009 - 11:50 am:

I thank you very much for this Info

Alain


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bill Dodd on Saturday, April 11, 2009 - 11:50 am:

Quick note. Don't jack under the center of the differential! Place the jack (and jackstand) near the wheel.

bill


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By alain on Saturday, April 11, 2009 - 03:22 pm:

Why not to jack to the center of the differential?
Is it kind of fragile?
Thank'S


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Saturday, April 11, 2009 - 04:29 pm:

The center of the housing is where all the gears and inner bearings are. The springs put all the weight on the outer ends and that's where you should jack and support it. If you jack in the middle, you could bend the housings and put the gears and bearings out of alignment which would lead to an early failure of the parts. Just takes jacking it up twice instead of once, to get both sides up, but much easier on the parts.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Frank Harris on Saturday, April 11, 2009 - 07:39 pm:

In other words, remove the brake rods at their front end then adjust the clutch fingers and or links so that the lever is straight up when in neutral.

Then and only then, hook up the brake rods so that they begin to pull the shoes after the lever is straight up and you are in neutral. There is an equalizer link but as was mentioned above, you may have to adjust each rod differently in order to get them to both pull equally.

That way you have a good neutral for engine starting and you can also pull it back farther to apply the parking brakes.

As the Model T clutch links wear they tend to make the system so that it pulls on the brake as you go into neutral rather than go into neutral first and then gradually apply brakes. No two are the same and that is the fun. Welcome to the world of the Model T Ford.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Saturday, April 11, 2009 - 08:59 pm:

If the clutch works and you have neutral between low and high on the pedal, don't do anything to the clutch fingers. The brake handle half way back should lock the clutch in neutral. If it does that, leave that adjustment alone. Then just work on the brake. As you pull the lever back it should first put the transmission in neutral, and then as you pull it farther back will lock the brake. Some people say the neutral is straight up. I find it is slightly forward of straight up on my cars. Importantly, when the lever is all the way forward it is in high gear unless you are using the foot pedal. When you pull it back part way, it is in neutral, and all the way back the brake is engaged.

If you are interested in adjusting the clutch, see other posts on the clutch adjustment.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By alain on Saturday, April 11, 2009 - 10:52 pm:

Thank you very much guys for so many details, i'll religiously try that in the next days.
Thank's


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By gary simpson on Monday, August 17, 2009 - 06:52 pm:

how to adjust the rear brake correct so hub will turn


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Monday, August 17, 2009 - 09:20 pm:

Push the brake lever half way forward and the rear hubs should turn. If you push it all the way forward the hubs will turn but the entire engine will also turn because that will put it in high gear. Half way back is neutral and all the way back is park. If it doesn't roll in neutral, your rods need to be lengthened by turning the clevis counter clockwise.
Norm


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