I had the Hogs off and replaced the bands. Now the Clutch is stuck. Any ideas? Help?
Thanks
expalin a little further - exactly what is happening - is it stuck in low or absolutely neutral? are your bands adjusted correctly?
I bet you have the "pitch fork" in the wrong place.
I would bet that Hal is right.
Paul
Thank you to those who have responded. I guess the pitch fork is in the wrong place also but I thought I would never get the cover on if it was in the wrong place. I'll have to take it off again and look. Any suggestions on where it does belong? How do I know it is right or wrong? Also When I disconnect the pedal from the clutch linkage how much movement should there be in the pedal(low to neutral to high gear) with brand new bands? Before replacing them it moved quite a lot now not so much.
I took the cover off the hogs head and looked in side. It appears I could have only put the pitch fork in two places. I believe I have the fork closer to the rear. Is the Pitch Fork suppose to be closer to the rear or the radiator?
With a pry bar I can move the "Clutch/Spring/etc.
Thanks for any help
If my feeble memory serves me, it should be in the slot closest to the front (radiator).
All the pictures in books look like it belongs closet to the rear. Maybe my Clutch needs to be adjusted. I had the motor out to do the lifters and I must have stirred something up. One finger is loose and two are tight.
The clutch ring goes to the rear groove.
I appreciate the help. I think I have the pitch in the correct slot and it appears I just need to adjust the clutch screws. I found one of them to be a set screw. I'll order new ones on Monday and try again next weekend.
Turns out I must have sturred up enough items to cause issues when replacing the bands, etc. After further inspection I found the clutch adjustment screws had issues. One of them was even a set screw that appeared way too short to do anything. I have replaced all screws and set them at 13/16ths and I can now start the car without it wanting to drive away! However it appears that I still need to adjust the clutch screws. I assume I should be able to adjust them so the car is not in gear when I roll the car around.
Dan, Tim, thanks for the pictures. It saved me the time of removal of the Hogs Head etc etc etc. on an otherwise leak free area.
The spring should be 2 inches in length with the lever all the way forward and the pedal all the way back. The screws should all be adjusted the same to give even tension all the way around. You can find this point by adjusting them to the point they just contact the ring and there is no play in any lever, then turn in each one equally until you get the 2 inch measurement. That will be the beginning point for adjustment. See below for additional tests and adjustment. The transmission would be in high gear with the lever forward, and in neutral with the lever back. If you leave the lever about 1/2 way back it would be in neutral with the brake off. It will still be a bit hard to push, but it can be pushed by hand without the engine turning over. Sometimes the low pedal will stick down when you depress it all the way. It should be adjusted so it bottoms out about 1-1 1/2 inches above the floorboard. If it still sticks, the spring between the bands inside the transmission might be too short or too weak.
After you make these adjustments and follow the post called adjusting for a free neutral, drive the car. If you find that the clutch slips when in high gear, tighten the 3 screws 1/2 turn each and test again. Do this by 1/2 turn increments. It doesn't take much to do it. Be sure to pack rags inside the transmission to catch any part that might be dropped, and then to remove them before replacing the inspection plate.
Norm