What is best SEALER to use the POR 15 - Or- KBS My tank ia a 26-7[cant get new] Some rust inside
---Or any other Abailable
Thank You Larry

Larry
I have used the three step POR process on original gas tanks with good results. Follow the instructions carefully. Make sure anything you buy to clean, etch and seal the tank guarantees that it is not affected by all the various concoctions of gasoline sold in the USA.
Ron the Coilman

I cant suggjest a particular company or chemical,but 95% of failures of sealed tanks is due to not be cleaned right.
And not all are created equal.Cheap dont cut it here,git the best you can afford to buy.
A buddy used the Kream in his 39 Chevy gas tank.I think it comes from Bill Hersh.Every week or 2 he had to change fuel filters because it broke loose in chunks.
He drove the car to work often,about 10 miles total a day.So it dont take long to make a mess of filters.

You would think with the demand for 26-7 tanks,someone would be makeing them by now.

My wife and I just acquired a neat little '27 depot hack, and apparently, the tank is okey. I've filled it clear full and no sign of any leaks. Having learned that a leaking '26-'27 gasoline tank is a serious problem, I'm wondering if a shot of Marvel Mystery Oil, besides the good it does for upper cylinder and valve guide lube, if it would tend to prolong the life of the gas tank by discouraging rust and corrosion. (???)

KBS makes a kit for a 12 gal. tank
POR-15 does not,My tank is 10 gal.
thats my cosern as with KBS it is half the cost
larry

Larry
I don't know anything about the KBS process. But I do know the following; Gas tank sealer is not a solution for discontinuous tank seams. If the tank will not continuously hold 2-3 pounds of pressure you have other problems and it needs replaced.
If it will hold pressure and you only have internal rust you need a three part CLEAN, ETCH and SEAL process.
I used the POR clean and etch process with the manufacturer recommended small rocks inside the tank suspended in the shop and significantly moved it about for several days to get rid of all the crap inside the tank in and around all the baffles, crooks and crannies. The rocks help the clean and etch process along. Then you have to dry the tank with a hair dryer to ensure all the moisture is evaporated. At this point you should only find clean metal surfaces inside the tank. Then you add the sealant and slosh it around just like you did with the clean and etch (no rocks) to ensure coating the entire internal surface. Finally you dry the sealant with the hair dryer.
One additional benefit of the POR product was it will not affect paint and this was an issue on my 1932 Ford gas tank reveal.
I did a lot of research in this area before undertaking it, made sure the product would last with the crappy gas available today and found cost is not the critical objective.
Ron the Coilman