Do you run:
A 30w non detergent,
A multi weight detergent,
A multi weight with a mix of tranny fluid
Other

Quickly becoming the master of stirring it up. Throw a bit of politics in there and you'll really have something.

I have'nt a clue what you are talking about Sather. lol

15/40 Diesel engine oil. Seems fine to me. Used to run Castrol 10/30 until they reformulated it. Now I am scared of it. Anything you choose will be better than what was available when it was new.

-Charles

I used 10/30 Synthetic Blend last time and car ran very well on tour last year. Will try motorcycle oil next time I change. Blend if poss or full synthetic.

George n L.A.

Cheap no name 20W 50 that costs about $12 for 4 litres.

Oh c@&p! We are supposed to put oil in these things?

Vince M

4 litres? You must be from the down under or something John.

Past MTFCA president overall great T Guru, Model T Garage proprietor Fred Houston, recommends for the best curently available Model T oil ........ a oil with the most anti-wear additives ( ZDDP package ) & best lubrication properties............


MOTORCYCLE OIL


I've been using the synthetic Mobil One for years, 6 months ago I changed to Mobil One Motorcycle Oil.

The reformulation ( SM rated oils ) have very little anti-wear ZDDP ingredients to meet new standards for catalytic converter life. Hey, great for new cars with roller lifters & converters, SM oils will wear flat lifters & cam lobes. Scare tactics ?? No, just documented truth.

Well what's the big deal, oil is oil....... right ?? ZDDP ??? Oil didn't have that "in the day".

Not really, you have to read & understand the rating labels on oil containers.

For my money, & the longevity of my T engine, I choose the current Motorcycle blend for the protection of my investment.

Most motorcycle engines share the same oil for engine and transmission like our T engines.

Use any weight you want, it's the oil rating that will make the difference.

Motorcycle oils are available in regular dino blends & synthetic.

It depends on what ignition, bands, and clutch you're running. With a Tru-Fire ignition, Kevlar Bands, and Watts Clutch, you should run non-detergent oil. Straight 30. With Coils, Cotton bands and a stock Ford clutch, run 10w30 detergent oil with zddp additive. With wood bands and a Jackrabbit clutch and a distributor, you should run Lucas oil,in 20/50, but only if you have a Bosch distributor. I'm thinking of getting a True-Fire, and having Stan set it up for me, just as soon as Royce dials in my Watts Clutch.

Bull! Just put oil in it,it will do the rest.

Just noticed yesterday that Briggs and stratton oil is SJ rated.

Jack: I expected a response like that from you, after all your shop needs all the engine re-builds to pay your bills.

A low blow, maybe, but what's wrong with being educated in the differences in specialized oil formulations ?? Can't take oil for granted anymore. Oil isn't labeled " For Model T's" .

SJ, SF & SL rated oils have the anti-wear additives at concentrations that a engine with flat lifters needs. The SL may have a bit less, the current SM oils have next to nothing in regards to ZDDP.

Go on-line with your favorite oil manufacturer, Click on their Product sheet or MSDS sheet. Compare with their motorcycle oil formulations.

You may be surprised, if you're interested.


Bob Jablonski

Bob,I don't rebuild engines for anyone but me. Sorry you took it the wrong way,but it is extremely important to put oil in your engine,change it often and that's about it. Considering what they had for oil back then,these oils today are much better. It's your money anf if that's how you want to spend it,go for it.