Well I guess I'm a little early but I got this neat 12 x 18 wall hanger of my Runabout for Christmas...
Will be doing a lot of this with my son this Winter as well...
Not a thing, it is still 2017 here in Paso for another 2 1/2 hours!
New years day here, fitted some new old stock English made Dunlop Cord tyres, really was a waste of time! gum cracks in the side walls!
Clear skies today, I may take Betsy for a drive later if the temperature climbs above +10 degrees F.
Going to back the T out of my tiny garage and staple some sheet plastic up top to insulate the rafters. I have a propane stove in there and a tarp on the concrete floor. Am hoping that plastic sheeting in the rafters and some hanging from the walls will keep in some heat this winter so I can work in there more comfortably. It’s 8 degrees in there right now.
Also need to go through my stash of parts in the garage and sell off all the stuff I really don’t need so that I have some elbow room. Will post in the classifieds this winter.
Late yesterday afternoon I installed my hogshead on a 25 Touring project. Took a lot of time and I used a lot of dental floss on those springs, washer and nuts so I didn't lose them in the tranny. So I woke up in 2018 feeling with a smile and feelin' pretty good.
Nothing! I just got out of bed a half hour ago.
Well, I opened up the garage door, took a look at her, closed the door. Now having my morning coffee and regular routine of reading the classifieds and Forum on the MTFCA.com
Happy New Year...
Off to the lumber yard to get stock to mount an Express bed on my 26 TT snowmobile.finished up Warford installation and oil leak repairs and reinstalled engine over the weekend getting ready for first snowmobile meet jan.21 in NH
Going out to the shop to work on the 25's front end and install the speed reduction on my Craftsman 103 drill press. I can get the speed down to about 260RPM with it but will still need to get slower, around 100RPM. Dad suggested 2 speed washer motor 1740/1140ish RPM will get much closer. Because of how the drill are set up, can't do a lot with pulleys. I need to get the speed down to drill the boar holes in my adapter plate.
Now back to T stuff. It's gong to be a survivor type. As bad as it looks, it will run on magneto.
I took my 23 for a quick ride on the icy road out front and back to my garage...
A water pump EXTRACTION will occur tomorrow. Block flush, new hoses and a new radiator will insure a properly cooling Model T !
I welded up some well worn hood hooks for my '25 today. Now they look good as new. Bought some of the reproduction ones, made in China, They are made too big & bulky. Put them right back in the bag to sell at a swap meet.
Got the belts and speed reduction pulley installed on the drill press. Well best layed plans...The belts slip too much and the counter bore just bogs down. I am wondering if the 6061 aluminum is just too cold, it's real gummy to work with. I was miscalculating the motor speed, it's 1425 50 cycle 1/4 HP not 1740 60 cycle as I was using to calculate belt speed. I miss read the chart for the 4" hole saw, with the reduction pulley in place the speed is correct but a trial run, it's no go too. At the correct speed it just barely cuts, chatters and bogs down stopping the belt.
With a 4" hole saw, are you using cutting fluid, of some type, to lube and help remove swarf?
I've always had trouble with the large size hole saws. There are recommendations of drilling a hole or two exactly where the saw will cut, to allow the cuttings to drop out of the saw teeth.
Everyone needs at least one friend with a mill.
When you reduce the speed a lot, you usually end up with one pulley so small that it doesn't have enough surface area to grip the belt. Maybe try some belt dressing to get a better grip?
The sun came out and the temperature got above 20 degrees F, so I went for my first drive of 2018 in Betsy today, one of my standard 16 mile loops. A gentleman in a late model red pickup truck followed me home to look over the car close-up and take some pictures with his cell phone. He told me that Betsy was holding 30 mph on the climb up the hill into town, so that made me feel pretty good.
Got the 4th wheel done and installed! Now all 4 match again for the first time since I’ve owned it! Also, since the weather was crappy, finally installed the ‘claw’ latches on the tailgate that I bought maybe 7 years ago
Betsy has those same latches on her tailgate. I also installed chains and covers originally listed for a Model A.
Setting up my friend's magnets:
I was thinking today about belt dressing. It's the bigger pulley on the spindle that the belt is slipping on, not the small one. Part of the problem is the motor is on the light side so may not be putting enough tension on the belt but when I pulled on the motor to increase, it vibrates more then is good. It's a fan motor, 1/4 HP. Need something with a little more oomph and weight.
Took my head to the machine shop to get it resurfaced. Hope to get it back and back on the car Saturday.
Finished up and painted my headlights for my speedster I Will get them put together in a couple of days
The only fragment of pinion tooth that was identifiable. The rest was a fine powder. Notice how it looks like it was cracked a long time, the tooth rocking each time, widening the crack until it couldn't take any more repeated stress.
Just in case anyone was interested in the 4th main being poured.
Pushed into clay with a stick in the middle. Someone kindly bored it for me.
Didn't have anything to tin it with but normal soldering flux so naturally it hasn't tinned in some places.
I would not run that 4th main, it needs to be 100%. This is the jig I've had good luck with.
Made a few strangling tubes.
Wow Andre, very nice!
Beautiful work Andre.
I started building a simple side mount package for my '22. This is the lower bracket which will bolt down on spacers using existing running board holes. So far everything is made from 3/16" x 1-1/2" flat stock. The upper will use the windshield base bolts so that no additional holes will be added. It's been too far below zero to do much else.
Dave, your spare mount looks a lot like the one that Jack Daron used to make and sell. I have one of his on Betsy and it works great.
Not a darn thing. I need to pull the starter out and get a rebuilt one from Glen but I’m still fighting the damn cold. Man this one hit me like a truck. A TT truck. dropped from an airplane. A ford airplane.
Mark, that side mount does look pretty similar to mine. By the look of your picture, it seems that another hole would have to be drilled in the fake door panel to mount the upper piece. I'm trying to avoid that. Time will tell if I'm successful! Does your lower piece attach to the running board through existing holes or did you have to drill new ones?
I picked up my head after it was resurfaced. I have a Victor copper gasket for it. I will wait for warmer temps to put it back together. Hopefully next week.
Ouch! That must have hurt. Hope your head heals up soon!
Dave, I did have to drill one new hole in the running board and a small hole in the false driver's door.
Nothing really but I just came off 12 weeks of 75+ hour weeks. I did clean up a nice core 26 NH carb and tested some coils and added antifreeze to my 26 rpu new years eve. Nothing sense but am fix the emergency brake on my newest 26coupe.
New to me 26.
Got the block of aluminum so I can start making the adapter for my Winfield carb to mate up to the manifold.
It was in the twenty' today so I started my 26 ForDor sedan and took her for 20 mile drive. It is still on 6 volt but it starts good. I have to leave it in the trailer so will try to get some work done on it before we leave for the Florida tour. Have a good day enjoy your T as We do ours. Clyde.
Hate admitting this, I've been really remiss, but I found someone who will rebabbitt my mains and rods etc... have to deal with rental unit issues, but it's time to pull the motor and get it re-done.
The mag started going, but only when I put the car in gear and pulled off (or tried to). Told me the thrust surface was cooked.
Felt bad putting it off, but I was really not sure if anyone still did this. So spent yesterday clearing space in the garage, need to get a puller and the eyes to yank the motor... pull it apart, and off she'll go.
I just finished up my headlights got them put back together for my speedster project thanks bill
Began stripping down my old top getting it ready to put on new one.
Even in North FL its cold in the garage, so all I have done is little assemblies, like the horn button on the '24 project.
Wire up the switch contacts after lacing the wires up the column.
Slip the housing over the column and feed the switch and wires into it.
Now add the button and align, using a small tool to keep the holes in the switch and housing in the right place, squeeze together, remove the tool and insert the thin long bolt and secure the tiny hex nut underside. Easy even with cold fingers
All done, run the wires out to the engine compartment, twisting them is factory to neat look, and attached the ends, one to the terminal block, (yellow/black tracer) gen/ammeter. The other wire to the horn. Test. Yes. Nice loud 'sick cow' bellowing blat from the Ford!
Rolled the 26 out of the garage to work on the radiator, removed the old hoses pulled the radiator only to find lots of rust. Ended up ordering replacement parts for inlet and outlet to the engine. The hose replacement will have to wait in till another day. Has anyone installed the 160 degree thermostat in the outlet? If so did it work well.
I actually got something done today. Installed new bushings and brake cams and painted the housings.
Which car will be getting the Ruckstell, Steve?
It's for the 1923 touring, which will also get AC brakes. I intend to do some touring.
Going with a 'Standard' gear ratio ??? Steve ??
Good question. I hadn't thought about it. Guess I'd better look into that.
Here's today. Sanded spokes and gave them a second shot of primer. I hope that's all they need.
Making progress on my Winfield carb adapter job. Will finish up the lathe work tomorrow and then back to the mill.
Just finished two carburetors. Hope they will work well.
Just about finished with the manifold adapter. Need to drill six holes and finish up some cosmetic work.
Milling the last flat.
Fit up, this thing might even work!
Continued on straightening my frame. Felt good to get back in the garage after being shut out by the extreme cold for two weeks.
I sanded the second coat of primer, declared that good enough, and painted the spokes.
Chad, is it taking a lot of pressure to straighten that frame? I haven't done that job yet.
Yesterday I removed Henrietta's handbrake cross shaft to fix the loose handle. There was little wear at the frame mountings, but the lever required an oversize hole/rivet, which I made. All was cleaned back to bare metal so I could bronze weld the handle to the shaft to make it more secure. I used some special bronze alloy used to sweat bicycle tubing into close tolerance fittings. It all went well. After dinner I went down to the workshop to tidy up, inspected my handiwork and then noticed the frame mounting I had neglected to put back on the shaft!
Allan from down under.
With the 20 ton bottle jack, I don't even feel resistance. It really moves quite easily. I had to jack it in a couple spots to get it even along the whole way. I am not sure if a short piece tubing between the jack and frame would move more evenly or not.
As you can see, I ran a string along the rail. What is a pain is that the chains sit on top of the string---you really have to undo the chains so you can recheck. But none the less it is a good indicator on just how far to jack it.
I also did it several times in each spot rather than trying to push it all at one time.
What was much more of a pain was getting it back in square when measuring diagonally across the top of the frame. That took quite a bit of force--as in I really thought I was going to break my come-along. My frame was badly out of square (I think it got hit on the front right rail). I thought about removing the front crossmember to relieve some of the pressure to make it easier, I was told by someone else that is what they had to do. I eventually got it back to square though.
It has been said it it best to reheat and rebuck the rivets to tighten it all back up. I can certainly understand why after watching it all move now. I probably should have looked for another frame in reality, however, this is for a Gow Job I am building and I will be welding new crossmembers in for the springs so that will keep it all square once done and I didn't hack up a better frame that someone with an original car might have needed. You could alternatively weld the seems on the crossmembers but that does detract from the original appearance.
Chad, it helps to put a block of wood that just fits tight in the frame rail, a foot or so long inside where the jack is placed. Helps to keep the jack from distorting the bottom flange so both the top and bottom flanges are bent at the same time. That's how in a past life, we straightened bent truck frames, but with a bit more persuasion, 20 ton jacks. . JMHO Dave
Good tip Dave. I didn't notice any distortion, but will check again to be sure.
Nice work Chad- I've got a frame I should run up to you..
Why not use 3 equally high wood blocks for the string? Two to lift the string front and back. The third for measure above where you put the jack. Then the chains won't be a problem.
Great tip also Rolf. Actually on the driver's side, I was using some large nuts I had to set the string on as the running board brackets we're in the way. But the blocks of wood would accomplish exactly whats needed.
Tim, I'm usually around on the weekends.
Steve Jelf : i didnt think you could paint the spokes before mounting ? But it only make sense .
Thats the first time i see that and always wanted to do that way to protect .
Haven't done a darn T related thing. Too cold (unheated garage) and snowy here in the Detroit area. Anyway, this is the time of year to get work done on our nearly 100 year old house and work on the phonographs.
I envy you guys with heated garages and (maybe) newer houses.
New cabinet in the back room. 1924 version.
I poured another set of Babbitt bearings today. I have been doing it for many years but each time I get a good feeling by getting another T engine road ready.
Prepped and painted a set of wheel bolts & nuts...
... and blasted more nuts & bolts and most of a spare tire carrier. The warm weather (53º) is going south and we're plunging back into the freezer, so more blasting is at least a week away.
Painted those nuts & bolts.
Tore down my 1926 SR Frontenac motor for upgrades. The head needs 3 valves and all 8 guides. Ordered a Scat stroked crank and 4 new insert bearings.
I have the head and starter back on my car. I drained the oil yesterday and left the drain plug out so anything and everything that would can drain out. Tomorrow I will, God willing, put the plug back, pour in the fresh oil, top off the coolant, install my brake light switch, and give it a try.
Painted the front spring assembly for a 26/27 RPU refurbish. Picked up 3, 10"×96", 1" thick roughsawn white oak for the wooden bed. $2 a board ft. Going to work great for a bed and for $40 for everything minus the floor, couldn't be happier.
This weekend I managed to move the speedster project down the the shed I have been keeping the pickup project in.Switched them out. So the chassis can sit and look at it's body and I can be working on both parts of the project.Spent the better part of the day messing with switches only to find all the 1's I have are sloppy in the same spot and cause the engine to spit and sometimes backfire.
I hope to get back on the project full speed this week. Have 1 zero turn to do a full service on as in change hyrdolic filters and fluid and so forth. I took the wheels off and cleaned them up yesterday. Storage is hard on stuff. Paint is failing a little so they will probably get a repaint. At least the second time they get painted my left arm aint in a sling!
I needed to do this....
to look like this.....
Them cylinders are ready to go! Nice...
Chris - That last photo you posted could/should be in the textbook! Beautiful crosshatch pattern that looks perfect for breaking-in new piston rings! You do nice work and take nice photos,.....harold
Today I finished the spare clock. After the cleaning and oiling of the clock works,it ran for 8.75 days. The next step was polish the case and rim,this clock was nickel plated and in bad shape the lower case was painted over the nickel,half hour on the buffing wheel. This clock would be late 1910 early 1911 as the pat.dates run from feb 07 to aug 1910
Head and starter back on and running again.
Not nearly as much as some of you folks! I got my new starter in and had to re-install the manifold before I could get it to start. Today I made a choke linkage so I could operate it inside the car with the carb adjustment knob.
Made custom cover a cost of $20.00.
1) Rebuilt my L-4 carburetor.
2) Replaced the head gasket.
3) Switched out the timer and coils for a distributor (a temporary measure so I can drive a bit, whilst I get the coils set up and or replaced).
4) Readjusted the Rockies.
5) Changed the oil and pretty much did the general maintenance thing.
6) Then washed the car for the event this Saturday in El Segundo.
Last night's piddling little snowfall (less than half an inch) may be all we get for the season, so I got the runabout out in front of the house to sit for its winter portrait.
I think the amount of snow is perfect for the composition. Well done, Steve!
Steve, does driving in snow, if you avoid mud, get white tires clean? I remember riding my bicycle in the snow, as a kid (long, long ago) and the tires were clean as new afterward.
Colin, Nice job of nickel plating the bezel and case of your Stewart and Clark clock. Did you use the Caswell Plating kit or did you simply buff the existing nickel?
Tommy, I don't know, and I'm too much of a cold weather sissy to find out. I drove just a few hundred feet, from the shop you see beyond the house and back. If we have some snow during warmer weather, up in the twenties, maybe I'll drive a little farther.
Hello Bob the nickel was bad what you see is the brass.It took about 1/2 a hour to buff and polish, the clock that is in the 12 is also a brass case and matches the speedometer. I'm going to guess that nickel plated units are for the more pricey cars of the day. Cheers Colin
I'm not sure why but all the brass on our 1912 when freshly polished will look almost white, it takes about a week to go back to gold which is why I polish every week. All the brass is original and that may be why. I picked up a repro motor meter in brass and it will not polish up like the original brass. Cheers Colin
Colin, The polished brass certainly has a “white” element to it. Possibly a brass alloy with higher zinc content.
This afternoon I finished and tested my home build carburetor test rig.
Liquid used is distillated water, the level difference between the top of the bottle and the carburetor is 60cm (about 2 feet).
By blowing compressed air in the tube an air flow is created and make the carburetor work (if it is OK)That way I can see the gas flow by idle, full throttle and all between.
Andre, That is a clever test apparatus you have there. Since you are using distilled water, one can use it indoors being free from combustible and noxious vapors.
Finished assembly of 5 Ideal Timers
Installed and wired spotlights on TT truck
I wired up my brake light and it works. I connected to the bat+ side of the starter switch. I wondered if the light would come on when the hand brake lever was pulled back. It does not. I was prepared to connect to ign+ somewhere if it did. Good as is.
Installed and finished a friends upholstery in his 23 Runabout.
Nice day today and took the Good Ol' Girl for a trip to WallyWorld. Not's so good , car was flooding. Discovered the choke was closing on it's own. Need to replace choke spring and check float needle. Tapped on Carp and raw fuel was squirting out.
OH !! and good job Martynn. Did you get your car on the road for El Segundo Show ??
Gave the 09 a rest this week and changed the oil and a lub job on both the 14 Touring and the speedster.
A few months ago I installed friction shocks on the rear of the speedster and I found some small ones for the front but I never got around to installing them. They are not really necessary on the front, but I have seen severe axle tram on the rear of the speedster when I followed it over a dirt road. The front will be set very light, more for looks than any necessity.
Building a front axle in preparation for the next T build.
Had a nice visit with Dallas Landers and his buddy Friday. Found him some more parts for his TT project. Dave
Stripped a Frontenac model t motor last week, then started looking for new valves for the SO Fronty head. Found valves very close to what I needed. Just had to cut 1/2" off the stem and cut a grove for the keepers. That done, then started on the rest of the head reconditioning.
Ordered a new stroker Scat crank with model a size journals, plus a set of Scat insert rods. Soon will order the new drum set and shaft for the transmission restoration.
Will balance everything and start reassembly in the next month, or as soon as the crank and rods show up.
Yanked the carb, removed choke arm (it was practically falling off, reoriented the choke spring, installed arm and staked it down. Hope it stays put for awhile, not much materiel left. Rechecked float level. Since the arm was almost odd and the spring had slipped out of the little hole it was causing the choke to pull itself on and flooding the carb as it was running down the road. Installed carb and hook up linkages tomorrow.
There was a 3/8" hole in the left side of the dashboard on my '23 runabout. I don't know what was originally there but didn't like the hole and didn't wan't to screw up the paint on the dashboard welding it up. So, I found a nice vintage Westclox dashboard clock and made a special bracket that used the existing hole rather than two bolts that would have been used. It still allows tilting back the clock to allow winding and setting the time.
It was a nice day here today so took the 26 out for a spin. Had a wonderful time and got quite a few waves
Yeah, I think I’ll leave my upholstery to the professionals!
I want my running board space for other things, so I'm putting a rear spare carrier on my touring, and I worked on that today.
My cousin Wally came over and applied heat to the rivets, and I did the mashing.
I haven't done enough riveting to be good at it. They aren't pretty, but they'll hold it together.
Good for another 90+ years.
After riveting, next was bending it into shape to fit. That involved a great big wrench...
...and a great big hammer. It was handy having a spare frame to make it fit.
I got it properly shaped for a rim to fit.
Very cool Steve, why is it whenever I see a picture of Wally he's holding a torch. Are you not allowed to play with fire? LOL
Hey, he had adult supervision. It's OK. Good work Steve.
Steve can play with fire BUT Wally is NOT allowed to play with a hammer. ;^}
My compliments to you, Steve and Wally, for a job well done. Looks GREAT!
Cool garage today so made it warmer using the hot air gun to shape the plastic tack strip around the body of the '24 project.
Start by fixing one end fast, so you have a fulcrum to pull and bend the strip as you heat it.
Have your clamps handy to secure the strip as it 'melts' into place.
The heat gun is placed near the strip for max heat.
Then drill and countersink holes and add the stove bolts and nuts to pull the plastic strip in place. Do this as you go around the body tub, that anchors the strip for the next 'heat' bend.
Pretty easy way to do it.
Hooked up carb, linkage , Tightened up batt cable to starter, she cranks now. Started up engine, runs well but the choke linkage turns around on the link and partially holds choke closed. Sitting here trying to figure out a solution. Any suggestions out there ???
Pulled the wheels to clean the wires on both sides. Parked it in the carport and covered it in September. Put the wheels back on and started it so it could warm up. I changed the oil and covered it up till spring.
How did you heat the strip without blistering the paint around it?
Replaced the valves on the 25, adjusted, ran. Had to take coil box off to remove coils, boy were they stuck! Today I readjust #1 intake and installed different coil box. Took for drive around the block. Motor sounds ok for what it is. Got to find the bugs and I found another, the bottom tank on radiator leaks. Seems to go between gears ok, the U-joint sound worn but could be rear end, got to pull it any way to check thrust washers.
That's why I coat the wide sides of the vibrator coil units with Johnson's Paste Wax. Good for floors and Ford T coils!
The hot air gun is applied to the strip, the strip gets rather warm to the touch, that's all it takes to allow the bending. Never close enough to or hot enough to burn paint. You could if you wanted
Maybe you need to reduce the length of the pull rod for the choke sleeve on your '26.
I like to put long 'L' shaped ends on that pull rod, then mount it by grasping the middle, bending slightly, and fitting each L in opposite directions. That makes for a taunt fit. Of course the carb choke butterfly needs a strong spring to return the butterfly to full open.
Did a little doodlebuging in the snow before it melted this weekend. My postman was delivering as I was riding, I told him to hop in....he totally didn't expect that and had a blast making a lap with me in my neighbors backyard and around my house.
I got out my welder and repaired some of the improvements made by the previous owner when he started fitting a Model A engine into my Runabout. My son and a friend helped me remove the body and turn it upside down.
The hole for the wiring harness appears to be miss punched from the factory so that is staying as is.
In addition to Model A radiator support rod brackets and new holes by the choke rod, the PO removed a 3/4"x 5" piece of metal that had the square holes for the firewall bracket. A drill and a half hour with a square file fixed that.
As I get older, I find it's easier to take advantage of gravity instead of trying to weld by laying underneath.
(Message edited by tmiller6 on January 22, 2018)
Got my engine back in. Roughly five weeks from pulling it to setting it back in. Adjusted all the bearings, pulled, lapped and reset the valves,. Stripped, cleaned, repaired the block, pan and accessories.
Dan re wax, came to mind to do same thing. The coil box needs attention as it is. The wood needs replacing as it is coming apart and warped. The coils were a VERY tight fit going in. They go in and out of the other coil box just fine. Going to make another space age material wood replacement for this one.
Just got back from a 14 mile drive in Betsy. It rained last night, so all the salt was washed off the roads. Temperature was in the mid 50s, so I was able to take the side curtains off, but it was pretty windy.
I didn’t use the speedster last year with all the family problems, so last weekend I woke it up with an oil change. Then I did a general lube job and checked timing, wheel bearings, rear wheel nuts etc etc. Eventually I added some new gas and got it started. The generator doesn’t put any current. Of course I had to remove the generator which disturbs the distributor :-(
I put the gennie on the fixture and nothing doing. The commutator looked dirty so I pulled it apart and cleared the commutator and noticed the inner insulation washers on the output terminal. Problem found.
Later today I’ll put it back together again with a new insulation washer inside and the custom plastic grommet on the outside. :-)
First I pulled the motor to fix the magnet clamp that I found missing and found these
Ruh roh 3 clamps in the oil pan not 1. then I took a general look see
This one is a real head scratcher! Even with the skill to do this why would anyone braise a piston?
My inner Technical inspector was miffed at this horrible Safety wire job but this is even worse no safety wire at all!
This is the most significant damage to the coil ring looks like someone tried to get the starter out without removing the Bendix
and even with the braised piston the cylinder bores looked good.
Last week, I received a set of front floor boards for my 1925 Touring body from Jon Anderson. They fit perfectly, so I sealed/stained them and gave them two coats of polyurethane (yes, I know they should just have a coat of black preservative, but I couldn't resist).
They were finally dry today, so I installed the pedal and brake lever trim and dropped the boards into place.
Earlier this month, I ordered an "untrimmed" front floor mat from Snyder's. This evening I made a pattern for the front floor mat using poster paper. Tomorrow, I'll trim the mat using the poster paper pattern.
Mark, Those look great! Nice Job and nice to see a quality product.
G.R. A braised piston is likely to be more tender and tastier.
Allan from down under.
I drove the 1915 runabout a couple of miles to take some misaddressed mail to a neighbor. That brought the odometer up to 2000 miles, time for maintenance, so I drained the oil. Whoopee.
Completed the floorboard install on my ’26 runabout.
Installed my new Brassworks radiator......
2000 miles on the oil ??????????
Did a head bolt thread repair today. Tried a new set up I've never used before. It's an EZ Lok thread insert. I like it.
Steve T: Yep, that's on the odometer. I change every 500. On the stuff the chart calls for at 200 miles, I do at 250. Makes it easier to keep track of things.
On modern roads these bearings probably don't need grease very 500 miles, but I do it anyway.
Made some mirrors
O.K. Steve !
I trimmed my "untrimmed" front floor mat from Snyder's to fit my 1925 Touring body.
I trimmed it to cover the entire floor area, looks nice but probably not correct, I have seen mention elsewhere on the forum that the mat should be trimmed smaller to only cover the floor boards.
Larry Smith, can you comment on the correct trimming dimensions for a 1925?
OK. Finally getting over this 3 week flu thing. Just got back from Chaffins with a new starter having lunch and then outside in the freezing 53 degree weather to put it in. Should be done and driving in less than an hour.😎
Fixed the missing clamps on the magneto.
then fixed the horrible safety wiring on the transmission
That safety wiring looks A OK!
Original mats have a rectangular trim at the lower firewall, so that the mat will lay flat.
Original front mat, 1924 touring.
So I use that pattern to trim the reproduction mats, here is one just done on the '24 project.
Trimmed at the firewall, and at the edge of the rear heel panel, curved up the sides to cover the risers, just as you have done.
And....finished off the '24 project so one can ride around now, Mexican blanket over padded seat spring, and mating blanket over foam fitted backrest of padded button vinyl job, not done too well by a shop I guess, it didn't fit good, but the blanket over cover works
Well, a repeat performance for me. Last year we put new brake shoes (the standard Ford rear 'emergency' or 'parking' brake that operates in the rear drums) on a friend's T. Today we did my project car.
New 'one piece' shoes with bonded linings were ordered and delivered - they still look nice.
However, they are still just wrong and need the same fiddling to get them to work properly as last year.
Now some T'ers prefer the shoes in one piece, - if that works for you, then it works and you don't need to read further :-)
As for me, I believe that brake efficiency is greatly improved when you do not have to fight the casting to pull the brakes on nor should you have to 'adjust up' the brake rods by much when the linings are brand new. (A Test: hold the one piece casting at the top end in each hand and see what force is needed to spread it even a little!). In two pieces they pivot nicely on the pivot bolt and need no wasted effort fighting the casting.
That being so the process is:
1) I cut them in half at the pivot bolt hole.
2) grind back the cuts a little for clearance (because the hole does not fit snugly on new pivot bolts, so the shoes can rock against each other where you cut them instead of on the pivot bolt).
3) file the bolt hole to make it 'square' to the pivot bolt. (I find they have a 'lip' on one end of the hole (the inside end of the hole on my shoes). You can feel it with your finger running along the hole when the shoes are split apart. This edge can cause the shoe to 'rock' on the pivot bolt and not fit snugly at right angles to the pivot. Not all holes are properly at right angles to the shoes either....
If not fixed the shoes sit 'out' from the backing plate and not parallel to it all the way around and so not parallel with the drum either.
You should now have 2 shoes fitting neatly on the pivot bolt.
The shoes do not match the diameter of the hub - they are quite a bit smaller. For me that affects brake efficiency as you have to pull the lever quite a ways before the cams engage OR you have to adjust the cam lever quite a lot. If the shoes are in one piece that also puts a loading on all the shoes and cam = not good.
4) place shoes in a vice and 'stretch' them a bit at a time by closing the vice up and then checking to the drum for good fit. Not hard to do and you can get quite accurate with this.
You should now have 2 shoes fitting neatly on the pivot bolt AND are the same diameter as the inside of the drums.
That brings up another issue, the gap between the flat ends of the shoes and the brake cam is now a little bit too large. This means you must adjust the cam even further before it engages so that now the cam is already over 2/3rds up the ramp BEFORE you even put the brakes on...
OR you have to add a spacer between the cam and the shoe end (one solution).
5) fit the shoes, place the cam in the 'off' position. Put the drum on about 1/2 way so you can see the cam and shoe ends. Pull the brake cam 'on' gently and measure the amount of movement needed to engage the shoes.
6) make up two shims - one for each shoe end - and slide them between the cam and shoe. It may take trial and error to find the thickness needed for each shim (they must be the same thickness). I found I needed 2 shims of about 7/64" each in thickness!! Now that would mean Excessive adjustment if you try to use the shoes 'as delivered' to you.
7) When satisfied, fit them to the shoe . We did a bit of 'dab' welding with correct rods for the shoe material, one each side of the shoe. Brazing is not recommended as the heat can affect the bonded linings.
Nicely fitting shoes snug (but not dragging) in the drum and a positive engagement action when you pull on the brake lever with minimal movement or adjustment needed on the cam. You can save adjustment now for when the linings wear!
Hope that helps you in yours :-)
Note: we used new replacement cams and put new bushes in as well..
I took the RPU to the bank and feed mill this morning. 46 degrees with on and off rain. Had to stop and tarp load on the way home. Stopped to check out a 300 acre farm to call coyotes on. 20 mile round trip. Last time out was December 24th. Needed a T fix and today that new top and wiper paid off.
Set up for directional signal ,almost there
January has been a busy month for my T project.
1926 Model T Coupe original. Hasn't been ran in about 10 years.
Started this year by emptying the gas tank and rebuilding the NH carb. Then I replaced the door straps and tore out the interior door panels and such while I was waiting on parts from Langs.
Next step was to test both the coil boxes and spark plugs to make sure they were firing properly.
Then I took off the commutator timer and cleaned it up. That is when I found the issue that kept me from running the T..... the timer pin fell out probably in Dec 2013. Model T would not fire up for the past 5 years because it was not grounding the coils. Dang. Something that simple, but before I took it apart I didn't even know it existed.
I removed the rust from the Anco Manifold/Intake. Looks like a million bucks. Put it back on with new copper and rings seals.
I adjusted the low gear and the finger things. Setting the break correctly in the process.
I replaced all the hoses on the water pump to be the original red hoses with the pipe. Looks much better now.
Drained the radiator, replaced the hoses, repainted the shroud and base plat, and installed new mounting bolts for the radiator. I also replaced the valve on the bottom of the radiator while I had it out. Strange thing was, the original plug was wood?? Who knew.
After I put everything back together, the T cranked up on the first turn. Ran it around town. Found a pretty good size oil leak at the spindex? ordered a new seal for it. Water pump started leaking at the packing nut also. Ordered new packing for it as well.
Next order of business, adjust the brake peddle because I could not get the car to slow down while driving. Had to pull the hand break a couple of times. I would like to charge the magneto, because my car shuts off every time I switch over, but I am going to try cleaning the mag post first. My only issue is, a compass does not move when I turn the engine over so I think they are completely dead.
I also added a transmission cover lint catcher.
The model t ran pretty good around town though. Got to get the water and major oil leak corrected prior to taking it on the road again. The mag would be a huge plus if I can get it working.
Leak free. Used "Seal All." This stuff really works.
This project started last October when the tranmission failed on the way home from a friends home. This weekend we pulled the motor and tore it apart. We found that the rivets failed on the drive plate. Now looking to replace valves, new fourth main,check the union joint and ......
I've spent most of two days on new tires. That means removing the old ones, mounting the new ones, and cleaning the wheels.
Step 1 is removing the rubber stem.
Then smooth the stump.
Slather some contact cement on the base of the stem, spread the hole, and stick in the stem.
Stem is in.
Use an original bridge washer that has a bead to clamp down on the tube.
Tighten the nut.
Wash off the talcum and road dirt...
The front wheels and one rear were no trouble. The other rear wheel gave me fits. I mounted the thing, had a leak, dismounted it and patched the tube, and remounted it. I did that five times before I finally gave up and got another tube. If it holds air overnight I'll declare victory and put the wheel back on the car.
Sorry that the white tire experiment didn't work out for you Steve, they did look nice. I guess they just wear out too fast for daily drivers, making them a show car only item.
I believe their advanced age hastened their demise. They looked perfect coming out of those original wrappers, but they sure didn't last long.