I just got my last new enclosed trailer a 8.5 x20ft. Does anyone know how the harbor freight winches are or if they last. I will only be loading model As and Ts. Also any size recommendations? Thanks
I bought a 2,500lb winch from HF last year with remote for my enclosed trailer. Seems to work very well, so far so good.
The Badland series winches work very well! As someone who has always used Superwinch for 30 years. Frankly they priced themselves out of the market. I used the Badlands 9000 lbs on both my enclosed trailer & my open trailer. You d not really need one that big, but if you want to have one that is plenty enough for all vehicles, they also have a 5000lb version of mine. I also use the wireless remote control for an extra $39.95 (sometimes on sale for $29.95) Keep the wired remote under the seat though as the wireless controllers don't last forever. I have had one wireless controller go bad on each trailer over the last 5 years, so I keep an extra one in the shop because they are so cheap. Never had a problem with the winches though & I use them Hundreds of times per year!
God Bless & Happy New Year
Bill's Auto Works
I have had a Harbor Freight winch for many years and it works just fine for Model T's and other objects. I bought the 2000lb model.
I have the 3000 pound with remote and the only wrong with it is I waited 20 years to get 1. I do not have it in a enclosed trailer but honestly I think if I were to load cars,I would go with a 5000 pound unit. Flat tires or other problems may not let the car roll freely, a stouter winch will allow you to get it on in there.
My HF $49.95 2500lb winch with remote is 3 years old, works like a champ.
I have the bottom of the line HF winch in both my trailers for many years and they are still going strong. I use them for everything including moving heavy equipment and so far no problem
The only factor that would limit the operation is the slope of the ramp. Every trailer I've seen has about the same length ramp, and depending on the slope of the ground it's parked on, pulling a Model T or A up one should be relatively easy.
The Model T weighs under just 2000 pounds (or at least my Touring does). A 2000 lb winch could presumably lift it straight up, so rolling it up a ramp should not over-tax it.
I'd go with a 2000 or 2500 lb. and be sure (1) the cable is long enough to reach the car before it starts up the ramp, and (2) you have the correct equipment to attach the cable to the car. The common thought described on the Forum is to connect to the front axle right at the spring perches, or the frame if you can figure out how.
One other consideration - if the winch is mounted on the floor in the front of the trailer, pulling the cable out and attaching it to a car on the ground will make the cable grind over the rear threshold of the trailer, removing paint and leaving scars that can rust. I'd suggest a roller, which could be a rubber one sold for boat trailers, or a metal one used for rolling stock through a saw or planer. The car will pass over it with no problem, but be sure it doesn't interfere with the closing of the ramp (don't ask how I know). Look around Harbor Freight, and you'll find what you need.
Please keep in mind the load rating on the winches are for a multiple part line, usually 2 parts with a snatch block/hook, AND the winch drum with only one layer of cable on it.
The 2500 lb winch will only pull 1250 lb on a single cable and that has to be with most of the cable pulled out. As the cable fills the drum, the leverage the drum has, is reduced and thus reduces the capacity.
For a simple recommendation, I would say the 5000 lb winch would be better. I have a HF 2500 lb remote control winch. It does a good job but does lug down,thus reducing the "cycle" time due to heating. Read the operating instructions for the particulars of each size, and brand.
A good idea/suggestion: Place a large rag/cloth/coat on the winch cable somewhere about the middle of the distance between the winch and hook. If the cable should break, the rag will slow the cable down as it flies where ever it goes.
seen too meany winches run the battery down, so I hooked a electric motor that will run both ways wired a 30 foot extension cord to the motor and a toggle switch in a electric box at the other end, plug it into my generator. you can let the cable out hook it to whatever , thumb the switch and walk in with what eve you are loading. You have to have a reduction gear box between motor and winch. This is all on a frame with a trailer hitch so I can hook it to a ball in the nose of trailer. It can be removed and used else where as long as the generator goes with it. Strong enough to pull stumps.
Peter - In the event that one has any difficulty in winching the vehicle up a steep ramp, there is a little "trick" I use that works well. I also successfully use a $49.95 (on sale) 2500# HF winch, and Harbor Freight sells a "snatch block" that opens up and allows insertion of the snatch block into the cable in such a manner as to allow you to hook the snatch block to the car, and double the hook end of the cable back to an anchor point on or near the winch, which effectively cuts the pulling speed in half, but doubles the power.
Also, it's worth keeping in mind that as the cable winds up on the drum (or spool) of the winch, the effective diameter of the "spool" increases, which gradually decreases the "pulling power" of the winch as the diameter increases,.....FWIW,.....harold
Terry - Oops! I answered Peter before carefully reading your post,.....sorry for the "repetition",.....harold
I am going to buy the bad land 9000lb at HF and give it a try. Everyone seems to have good luck with them and why pay $800 on the warn winch if this works. Thanks
Winches are a bit like a lathe, you can do small jobs on a big lathe but you can't do big jobs on a small lathe.
So I have a 12000lb on my trailer.
Harbor Freight Badland Electric Winches ....
Cheap - Hard Working - Dependable - Long Lasting ....
You need a length of winch line to extend the length
of your trailer interior floor & down your ramp door or ramps
to your Model T or other load - the less line wraps on the winch - the less pulling strength at the attachment point.
My enclosed car hauler trailer setup has a separate 12VDC deep cycle marine battery adjacent to the winch in my enclosed trailer - charged off the fused 30 amp factory 12VDC connection at the 7 way plug.
I have been using the 12,000 pound Harbor Freight Badlands 12VDC electric winch since it came out because motor speed is slow & steady and it has a drum tensionser to help limit winch line tangling - wireless remote control because I load and unload vehicle by winch.
I have a $60 2000 pound winch I bought at the local farm store. I have no battery itís wired direct to the power prong on the seven prong trailer plug that has a 40 amp fuse it works great. If I would ever need more power I could double the winch up but it is not necessary. I am very happy with it it pulls my model tís or Polaris ranger in without any problem.
Like a few others, I bought the 12,000 unit from them. I have loaded a Chevy suburban, two Ford Explorers, and an 8N tractor with it. I never worry about how steep the ramp is. I also used it to pull a tree for a buddy of mine that was about to fall on his house. It pulled my truck and trailer back so we blocked the wheels better, pulled it over, then cut it up. Zero risk of hitting his house.
Another HF winch customer here. I believe mine is the 2500 lb. model. Here are a couple of lessons learned:
1. If you power your winch off of the tow vehicle battery, you will find the winch pulls much more easily if you run the engine on the tow vehicle. I don't bother to start the engine for letting the car down the ramps, but always do so when pulling up the ramps.
2. I had hoped to be able to sit in the seat of my T and steer it up the ramps while operating the wireless remote. Unfortunately the remote has very limited range. So I have to stand at one of the front wheels and bump the wheels to steer it up the ramps.
3. Be sure to keep some tension on the cable while rewinding the winch. If you don't, the cable will tend to bunch up and will eventually snarl on the guard that is trying to hold the cable down against the drum. This bends the guard. HF doesn't stock spare parts, so you'll be stuck trying to straighten the bent spring steel guard. Don't ask me how I know !
Other than that, I think the winch is a great improvement over trying to drive up the ramps under T power. Looking back now, I cringe at the abuse I put on my low speed drum trying to drive up the ramps.
Dick Fischer, The wireless remote control has a 50 ft range. If you cannot sit in your "T" while letting the winch out, something is wrong (remote battery needs replaced, unit needs to be mounted higher, etc) I have sat in many vehicles while unloading & have walked next to most of them while winching into the trailer from more than 50 feet away
Both my transport trucks have dual batteries so running the truck or having an extra heavy battery in the trailer is completely unnecessary!
Bill's Auto Works
If you are serious about only loading Ts and As, a 2,000-lb winch will be more then enough, you could get by with half of that capacity. Think about it - I'll bet that you have pushed a T on to a trailer with only one helper; do you think that two average men could generate 1,000 lbs of force?
I have a new enclosed trailer on order. I'm picking it up next month. I specified a winch plate installed.
I have had good luck with most of my Harbor Freight purchases.
My heaviest car (at the moment) is my 1932 Franklin (which usually runs and is driven into a trailer) at 4.250 lbs. I doubt I'll ever own anything much bigger. Am I safe with the Badlands 9,000 lb. winch?
You are MORE than safe with the 9000 lb Badlands winch. As I stated earlier in this thread; I have the 9000lb winch for both of my trailer & I transport every type of vehicle imaginable. I have winched many that were around or north of 6000lbs with NO issues what so ever. The reasons I did not purchase the 12,000 lb one was the added weight & the added price. Basically there is NO ONE who uses them more than I do as I have averaged above 130,000 miles each year for the last 11 years.
I need to clarify something I said in an earlier post on this thread. The reason I do not have to run my trucks or have an extra battery in the trailer is because I ran #1 battery cable from the batteries of the truck back to a NASCAR type plug at the rear bumper & the trailers also have the opposite ends of those plugs. If you do it this way you need to use the relay pack supplied with the winch. Mine are mounted in the engine compartments inside small plastic boxes so as to keep them clean.
Bills Auto Works
(Message edited by Bills Auto Works on January 06, 2018)
Please keep in mind the following:
1. The rating of the winch is NOT the weight it can pull on a single cable running from the winch to the load. MOST often, this rating is double what a single cable will pull safely.
2. The weight of your vehicle is always greater than the ROLLING weight or force needed to roll the vehicle. The rolling weight has a lot of contributing factors such as angle of incline/decline, tire pressure, and type of surface the vehicle is on, to name a few.
3. Dick is absolutely correct. KEEP the winch cable straight on the drum. If it gets crossed up, cable damage can/will occur. Damaged cable does NOT pull the specified weight and can fail without warning.
4. The more cable on the drum, the less the winch can pull due to the leverage of the winch motor on the effective size of the drum.
5. To achieve the rated pull weight of a winch, a snatch block is required. In most cases, this is the proper way to reach the rating. In some cases, a double sheave snatch block is required. This allows you to triple (or more) the times the cable runs to and from the towed vehicle. Doing this will allow for more winching capacity.
Bill S., Thank you for your comment on the seemingly limited range of my wireless remote. I replaced the battery in the remote, but that didn't change anything.
I had wondered whether my unit was sub par or if they were all that way. Probably mine is simply not up to snuff.
Bill's set up look's nice and i wonder if that is a invertor on the front wall to supply 110 volt power? Years ago i installed a hevy duty switch,huge welding cables,and a invertor.I could run a 1/2" drill,a 9 inch grinder,and watch TV from my tailgate.Everything worked well untill i used a flouresent shop light a it burned up about 3 invertors!! After getting the 3,000 watt Honda we never looked back! Bud.PS,What is a Nascar type plug? Bud.
When I got the same 12,000 lb winch with wireless remote a few years ago I set out to test the range in an open area and got 75' away pointing the remote in any direction and it still worked. I think it would have worked further yet but I was running out of room. I did the same inside the shop with obstructions line-of-sight and still pointing the remote away from it and it still worked. Pretty fantastic for the money. Using it from the drivers seat of the car being loaded has never been a problem.