What I've done so far: ground off the heads; drilled in about 1/8"; turned the rivets and lever orange and let them cool. So far no amount of pounding with a heavy hammer has moved a thing. Any ideas?
Drill some of it out then you can punch out the rest.
If you don't have a press, just keep drilling (line up the drill carefully to be sure that you're just drilling the pin!) until there's so little pin left that the remains can be driven / picked out.
hit'em while they're hot!
Some times theyll only move when they are semi- molten, but you may have to place a socket or other support under the assembly to keep from bending the brake shaft while pounding on it while it is in a bendable state.
OR you could--
Fashion a mini press out of a "C" clamp, a small socket on the bottom to allow the pin to drop into and a hardened bolt to push it through the shaft.
And after trying that, just drill it the rest of the way out
As others posted, drill some more.
For driving out rivets, normally drill a minimum of 1/2 the depth of the diameter of the riveted part.
These small rivets on the lever arms can be tough, but drill in 1/2 way and they will punch out!
Forgot to say, use a drill just under the diameter of the rivet, and use a punch the same size as the hole you drilled. Larger punch face gives more impact to the stuck remaining part of the rivet! Your punch shown in that nice photo is a tad small to do the job
Steve, heating them up will only serve to expand them thus making them tighter. I would try heating the end of the cam to expand it away from the pin.
I just did some last month, I drilled a hole almost the size of the pin better then half way, heated it up a little, fit a punch in and several good whacks and the pin came out
I think the idea of a socket, or peice of pipe under the arm will help.Your hammer shock is being lost to vibration or shaft flex and not moving anything.
I've had some success in similar situations where I heat up the part and then put a small drop or two of oil in the hole you drilled in the pin, maybe doing it a coupe of times. I guess my logic is to expand everything up and then try to cool the pin (as best you can anyway) hoping it will contract and break open the interface enough to either loosen it and/or let some oil down into it. The oil will smoke and maybe flame up so be aware of that. Don't want you to singe the beard!
Over the years these pins become dog legged
And the arms rust to the shafts
Drill in past the arm
Heat arm red and pound out if not
Cut and drill out from the end
Usualy tthe cams are bad anyway
Steve, I drill 3/4 of the way through the rivet, leaving the bottom of the hole to take the hammering on the punch. It helps if the drill is not perfectly centred on the rivet. Just upsize the drill bit until the hole cuts the side out of the rivet. Then you have a split rivet, hanging on with just a small portion at the bottom of the hole. Usually easy from there. No heat, no lubricant. It would help on this occasion if you can support the cam when hammering.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Drill it as mentioned many times here. I drilled half way through one side, flipped it over and drilled a little bit on the other side of the cam lever too. By not drilling all the way through you can hit the remainder of the pin with a punch as others have said.
I had one that was super stubborn, I had to drill all of the way through. Started on each side until it met in the middle so I wouldn't damage the hole in the lever (The cam I was replacing anyhow).
Is it a tapered pin? They can be a real SOB, even if you do drive on the small end!
No, straight pins.
I went to town and bought a bigger punch pin to fit the drilled holes. The third hit with a hammer did this to it.
Two choices: buy worthless crap locally or go online and gamble that what you buy there is better, and wait for it to arrive, and pay shipping that doubles the price.
I am having that same luck with punches lately ,anything under a 1/4 inch will bend at the least little strain.
Steve, straighten out the new punch. Then grind the end till the "chip" is removed. Then heat the end of the punch up to the area where the fluting starts till it is a "dull" red. Hold your heat near the fluting so as not to get the tip of the punch too hot before the rest gets hot. Do this in a shaded space with "low lighting" so you can see the "dull red" as soon as it is visable. Do not overheat. You want to just barely see the dull red form. Then quench in oil. If there is enough carbon in the steel (no good way to know for sure) you may end up with a good punch. If the steel is poor then it will not help, but you have nothing to lose at this point ...
Look close just above the blue, it's starting to fracture.
Yep, it's beyond straightening.
When you figure this out let me know. I have a friend that I need to help with this issue
I tried to remove it by just grinding the top... Perhaps cut the cam off. Put it in the drill press and drill the cam axle out. Then deal with the rivet.
Yup, That is what happen on the one that got real stubborn form me. That is when it drilled from both sides carefully until the rivet was drilled out. At that point, a small two jaw (maybe you can fit a three jaw in there) can be used to push the cam from the lever.
Steve and others !
I had the same problem removing my pins so i used a heavy piece of bar stock and drilled a hole about one inch deep in the center and used it like a dolley on the bottom of the arm . my wife held the dolley so i could get a good strike on the punch. worked good for me . also i ground the top of the pin so i could find the center. hope this helps Ken
sorry Dale !
I should have read all your post a little better . your idea of a weight under the arm is the key.
All good advise. Great forum.
All good advise. Great forum.
Starrett Drive Pin Punches tend not to give up the ghost quite so easily.
When the brake cam is worn out I cut the cam off, chuck the stub in the lathe and bore most of it out of the lever.
There is a reason good punches are expensive.