Looking forward to continued progress as I try to get this old touring car back on the road after a nearly 50 year slumber.
Here's the link to the 2017 thread if you want to go back to the beginning of my project.
I built a new barn on the back of my property to house the car and will soon be pulling the rear axle for a rebuild. After that, I'll pull the engine and give it a diagnosis and probably take it on a trip to see Ross Lilleker.
I've made a deal on a set of wheels that I'll pick up at Chickasha....so hopefully after that, we'll be getting close to a first drive.
(Message edited by rustyfords on January 02, 2018)
(Message edited by rustyfords on January 02, 2018)
Glad you continued this thread You have an exciting Summer lined up and look forward to your progress!
Ok now ... get to work! I bought my unrestored '23 runabout in November 2016. Had it apart by late December, rebuilt all the mechanicals, stabilized the sheet metal and had it inspected for the road by August 2017. And that was mostly in my unheated garage during the winter here in Rochester. You can do it in warm sunny Texas! :-)
I love your runabout Mark...everything about it is just perfect.
Thanks Don. Let me know if you need help, encouragement or parts. I might have extras.
Don - I need to do the rear at some point. Have not had the courage yet! Interested in how it goes!
I've dived into the rebuilding of the rear axle on my car. Here's a link to the thread where I'm documenting the rebuild.
I continue to be delighted at the ancient farm repairs I find on the car. The forensic evidence points to most of the repairs being done sometime in the second world war. I like to imagine rural farmer in west Texas, with rationing and scarce resources...doing what he had to do to get by. I may be off the mark. I'll probably never know. But this is part of the joy of bringing something this primitive back to life.
Here's my latest find. A nail being used as a cotter pin on a rear axle nut.
I would say a perfect replacement looking at the bent portion.
As a 5 year old Grandpa kept me busy during visits by straightening nails salvvaged from farm buildings torn down. He would place me on a stool near his anvil, give me a small claw hammer and a bucket of mangled nail to straighten. After all nails were expensive!
I'm a naughty naughty boy...
As of last year, I was still using a nail or a piece of wire if I didn't have a correct key. :-/
I bought a pack of cotter keys since.
Push Truck, I've done that for me. Oof.
This weekend I cut down the original 1924 spare tire carrier to accept a 21" split rim.
I cut the main cross beam, made it fit the rim, then welded it together, then did the same for the bottom hoop.
I still need to use the heat wrench to make the bottom hoop fit the shape of the rim a little bit better. Then I'll clean up the welds, sand the whole thing down and put a coat of flat black on it.
While I'm saving up for parts for my rear axle rebuild, I'm tackling the floorboards.
I bought a beautiful set at Chickasha from Jon Anderson and am staining them and installing a set of metal trim pieces and a heat shield that I removed from an original set of floorboards that looked ok but were falling apart.
My only issue is that it looks like they're going to turn out way too nice and look to new for my weathered car. But I'm sure enough time and miles will give a more worn look.
Looks good. Better than Flintstoning it if the others fall apart.
Yeah Dallas, once I took the metal trim pieces off, the old floorboards fell apart.
Plus, they were too narrow for my car. Was there a narrower floorboard size for an older series Model T?
Don, I had a '65 Custom Cab Ford. I see you have a '66 F100 hauler behind your T....as a Native Texan I know how the old trucks down there survive compared to here in the East. Nice T!
I had a 65 ford pickup with a wood flat bed and holes in the floor your feet would fit through. It had barn door hinges on the hood as the hinge mounts were rusted away. That was 30 years ago. I paid a $100 for it. They dont last long around here either.
Don: Are those rivets holding on the draft deflector?
Yes Larry...they are rivets.
Gary and Dallas...this 66 is the most exceptional one I've owned.
It's a completely rust-free truck from Oklahoma, wearing original factory paint. It's been a long time since I've come across one this clean and unmolested.
This morning I installed a set of original pedal hole cover thingamabobs (donít know what their real name is) and a baffle thingamabob on the set of Anderson floorboards I bought at Chickasha.
I stained them last week and they were dry enough to work with today.
Theyíre WAY too nice for my car but hey...you canít always get what you want but if you try sometimes, you get what you need.
The only slotted screws I could find in my stash that were the right size, were brass.
So Iím proud to join the ranks of brass Model T owners.
I have the only known 24 T with brass floorboard screw known to exist.
Hehehe! I caught those quips. That Stones line is actually quite fitting. Kinda goes along with the "Just get 'er done" thread.
Those JV Anderson floor boards ARE nice! Don, does your 24 have the steel or wood risers for the front boards?
Maybe the narrow floor boards were from a different mfgr?
My tight front boards that came with my 18 are gonna stay out for a couple years until I can perhaps stand the body on end and fix my wood risers as they're splitting where the boards lay and there's ONE screw that's covered by the body so they can't come out for repair easily. Don't like 'em anyhow. Never had such niceties as full floor boards.
Get in and out of your car a few times to start the scratching (weathering) process. :-)
Hehe...glad you caught that Duey. 😁
My front risers are metal.
Yeah...the surefire way to ďageĒ the floorboards is to use them. Iíve also been sort of carelessly sitting them down, etc while working on them and fitting them to the car.
The brass slotted screws look nice, but Larry Smith told me that the floorboard trim and draft deflector were originally fastened with semi-hollow rivets:
Mark, Don had posted that they were held by rivets. As in keeping with the theme, he used what he had on hand
Oops, my bad, thanks for the correction!
Yep...trying to fix the old girl with what would've been available pre-1945.
If it's already in my parts and fastener bins and has some nice weathering, even better. That's not always possible though.
I'm not a fan of faked patina. It always seem to be really visible and takes away from old cars rather than adding to them. So...sometimes I just have to apply a matte finish and let the item age naturally. And sometimes, depending on the item, I can speed up the aging process by placing an item on my P.A.S.T (Patina Acceleration Semi-Transmogrifcation) device....aka, the roof of my shed.
Finally have the $$$ to order the parts to finish my rear end rebuild.
I'd have it done by now but life gets in the way sometimes. My wife had two unexpected surgeries, had to buy new car for her as well (she's expensive). Throw in my daughter's college expenses and sheesh!
Aw well...I'm grateful to have the super family to spend the money on.
I'll place a couple parts orders this week, then shipping time, then I should have the rebuilt axle back under the 24. Then it's on the engine.
Hehehe! Ain't it amazing how expensive rear axles and families can be? :-)
Fun updates Don!
Last weekend I bought a 1925 chassis that a hotrodder was getting rid of when he pulled a coupe body off of it.
I paid very little for it ($300) but it supposedly has an engine that ran when it was taken apart. The plan is to get this new engine running and plant in my 24. The engine's serial number makes it a 1925 model. It has a 4 dip pan...which is kind of cool.
It's also sporting an accessory engine support (I've heard they're called "belly bands") that I'll be moving over to my 24.
I'll also do a really quick and dirty check up on the rear axle from the donor that will involve me cracking open the housing, replacing the thrust washers and sealing it back up with new seals and gaskets. Then I'll install that and the rear spring on my 24.
That will give me a running/driving car while I finish the more careful axle rebuild that I'm doing and will send my old engine out for a professional rebuild.
And...in case you're wondering...yes, I do plan to paint the engine (probably flat black) before I install it. I claim no responsibility for the hideous color choices or the gooping of RTV all over the gaskets. This is how it came. I know...it's ugly.
Oh goll, even the head gasket got the goop!
3 hundred bucks? :-p I wish there was a better way to stick my tongue out at you Don. Hehehe!
Good for you and hoping that 25 engine is quiet as a mouse. You deserve it. :-)
Thanks Duey. I have no illusions of it being quiet. I just want it to be something thatíll run for a year or so.
I pulled two of the four connecting rod caps from my 1925 temp engine and I think I'm in good shape....maybe some of yall with more experience can tell me if I'm correct in my assessment or not.
The caps both look like this one (from #3). It has a matte appearance and when I run my finger over it with my eyes closed, I can't discern any flaws.
There seems to be a fair amount of babbitt left in place and it was still using a shim.
Here's the crankshaft surface.
Nice and shiny...and again, nothing that my fingers can feel as a flaw.
So...my amateurish questions:
- Should I polish these caps a little bit?
- The caps were pretty loose. There was fore and aft play and also some vertical play. The shims seem to have about 4 or 5 layers left on them. Should I remove a layer?
I would pull shims to get the clearance tightened up and run it. From a couple used motors I have dealt with, that looks real good. Wish I had babbit in that condition on mine. Good score on that chassis.
Front to back movement on the rod journals not so much a big deal. Obviously the crankshaft you want a minimal amount of fore-aft movement. You need about .0015-.00175" clearance on the main / rod journals. Plastigauge is an easy way to check it.
That matte finish on the bearing is telling me one thing, it's more than likely lead based babbitt, not something you really wont. Lead babbitt is used for low speed aplications and will not give you a long life engine.
Frank...thanks for the input.
If that is the case (and I'm certainly not going to test the chemical composition), it'll be perfect for my application.
This engine is a stop-gap measure who's purpose is to get my T running again, mainly as a glorified golf cart around the neighborhood while the "real" engine is waiting its turn for a professional rebuild.
It need only last a year or two.
You watch though...the thing will probably be running fine ten years from now.
Expecting big rains in the Houston area over the next several days. So...the spare T chassis is up on jack stands.
Itíll also make it easier to disassemble.
Just put in an order with Langs for all the misc bits, bearings, seals, etc that I'll need to swap this engine and rear end into my car and hopefully make it a runner.
My wife and one kid are headed to her sisters for the 4th of July week and my older kids will be out of town as well. So, it'll just be me and the dogs for a few days and my goal is to swap engines then.
Here's the smaller of my two mutts with the T's shelter in the background.
Until then my T waits patiently in its temporary home on the back acre. (Note one of my "new" wheels at the bottom right of the photo...it'll be installed at the same time.)