I am going through a 25 depot hack I bought and the generator isnít charging. A little background. The man I bought it from inherited the truck and didnít know how to drive it or anything about a Model T. He installed a 12 V battery and connected it negative ground. He claims when he inherited it, it had an 8 volt battery connected negative to ground but the 12 V rolled the starter over much better. Iíve installed 6 V battery connected positive to ground and now back to negative to ground. Either way the generator across the cut out is dancing between zero and 6V, I deliberately shorted momentarily across the cut out. Now I still get dancing between zero and 6 V, but if I reverse my digital voltmeter leads I get -10 to -17V. All the connections between the generator and battery are good. My amp meter seems to not function although electricity can flow through it.
FYI on another note my starter seems incredibly weak at 6 V barely rolls the engine over on the 12 V battery when I purchased it it rolled over great. I am not sure where to go from here. Advice is appreciated I am not a great mechanic! Right now the generator is my concern starter will come down the road. Thanks Tom.
Your car should operate flawlessly with 6 volts. If it doesn't you have parts that are worn out.
What's the condition of the harness and battery cables? Perhaps your starter and generator need a rebuild?
Adding more voltage won't solve anything...
I agree with you my other model T works great on 6 volts. I donít know if there is something I am able to do to repair my generator or if I need to send it somewhere for repair? The strange voltages I am getting, clearly something is wrong with it.
Get in touch with Ron Patterson. He will gladly and accurately trouble shoot with you over the phone. I don't feel comfortable giving you his contact info but I bet he chimes in...
First off - ditch the digital meter. Using a digital meter around a Model T Ford will have you spinning around and around in ever increasingly larger circles. Too much interference from the electrical system to use any digital meter. I have laboratory grade digital meters and Harbor Freight ones too and they all read nonsense once there is a T motor in the vicinity that is running. Trust me on this.
Start with a KNOWN GOOD 6V battery and give it a full charge. Hook it up negative ground and see if when you step on the starter button the starter spins faster than you can hand crank the thing. If not then fix the cables, starter and starter switch and then report back. Until you can turn the motor over with a fully charged good 6V battery there is no point in trying to figure out why the battery isn't charging. The basic portion of your battery system isn't working right and that consists of battery, 3 cables, starter switch, and starter motor.
And clean all the grounding points on the frame and starter switch, as well as inside the cable ends and battery terminals! Poor grounds are a real menace with our 6 volt systems and syphon off a lot of juice that shows up in the starter's operation. Make those contact points shiny metal!
On a bench test my generator motors fine. Chucked in my drill press at 2250 RPM I get approximately 30 V. My cut out seems to do nothing. I have read many threads on this website I find comments very helpful. I just sent a message to Ron Patterson through this forum. I hope to hear from him or anyone else that can help. Thanks Tom.
Ron Patterson called me today, amazing patient man. He walked me through several tests. I learned so much. Even if my generator isnt repairable thank you Ron.
I have not completed a detailed search for this product or any like it, on this forum. I believe, with the problems we have with poor grounding on our Ts, this would be a great help.
Copper Shield is a copper conductive compound for improving electric connections. I have used this extensively and recommend it highly.
This link is to the product but it can be found many places. I am not connected to this product in any way other than I use it and think it's well worth the price.
About how fast would one say the generator should motor on the bench, connected to 6 volts?
Check your 3rd brush, see if it's loose and may have moved in the direction of the spin...mine did that and showed no charge, I barely made it home (I was running on a distributor at night with the head lights on at the time). I've since readjusted the 3rd brush and now it charges correctly (also went back to coils and timer).
It sounds like a stupid thing, but it's the easiest thing to check and I always start with the easy stuff first, then work my way to the harder and or more serious things. The other thing I did was dump the voltage regulator and went back to a cut out...they worked well enough for Henry, they work fine now too...if you let them.
Moving the third brush in the DIRECTION of the SPIN will INCREASE the output so you must have either not moved it that way or there is something else that happened. Since you then removed the VR it is entirely possible that moving the third brush in the direction of the SPIN set the generator output too high and the VR gave up its life to save the windings in your generator. It would have forced the output of your generator to zero with its last dying breath. It may be repairable. It is in fact designed to fail that way if the generator is set way too high since generator is more valuable than the VR. If you have not tampered with it or tossed it away I would take a look at it for you if you want me to.