Howdy, Today, I drained the oil from the '11. As far as I know, it has been quite a while since this car was last run. I have had it for a year, and am only now able to spend time going through it before a first start.
When the oil came out, it was very thick, black, and had a texture to it but did not feel gritty or like it had flakes. The best way I can describe it is that when it flowed down the bottom of the catch pan when I poured it into the recycle bottle, it looked like thin cottage cheese or like ricotta. But maybe not as appetizing.
Next, I removed the inspection cover on the bottom of the crank case, and the oil was beautiful, like natural maple syrup! Clean and clear.
There is an external oil line that runs from the transmission cover and goes to a connection on the front rail of the inspection cover. Haven't checked yet to see if it is open. I don't know if this line has an effect on all this, but there it is.
Now, what would cause the oil in the tranny to be thick black goo and the oil in the pan to be perfect? Is there a connection between the tranny and crankcase that is plugged? Any ideas?
PS. I will be cleaning the crankcase out as much as possible and getting a plastigauge reading on the connecting rod bearings before I button it up.
Probably using non-detergent oil. That lubricant allows all the nasty stuff to accumulate in the lowest reaches of the oil pan and settle out. Detergent oil seems to keep it in suspension better. Just be happy the glop came out willingly.
Flush it with kerosene a time or three.
skip the plastigauge and use news paper or aluminum foil. Yes both work. Plasigauge, it inbeds in the babbitt and does not give a true reading.
Mark, why would plastigauge imbed in the babbitt and paper wouldn't? I have never heard that about plastigauge before, interesting. Dave
Surface area the material lies on. The plastigauge only cover a very small area and babbitt is soft enough it does not spread. In an engine with very thin babbitt lined bearings like most modern cars, the steel shell prevents the issues. This has been talked about here often and on other sites dealing with pored babbitt bearings.
For those that may not know the newspaper or foil strip does not spread out to then be measured like Plasti-gauge. Hopefully Mark will explain further. I have a appointment soon and am walking out the door presently.
Mark, thanks for the lead. Am now looking at forum threads and the engine book.
Back to oiling: I am confused. I thought the engine and tyranny shared oil, so why would the oil in those two areas be so different? The area under the crank had zero glop, and 4 quarts of glop was under the tranny. I do not think the outside oiler was doing anything at all, but appears to be open. What do you guys think of the double internal oil pipe set up with the funnels near the mag?
The internal oil line was doing its job if there was oil in the dipper pan recesses. The glop in the bottom of the trans housing was all the stuff (band material, etc.) and contaminants that the moving oil washed out of the inspection pan into sump. My experience is that non-detergent oil doesn't look as dirty after its been used a while. Probably because it doesn't hold contaminants in suspension like detergent oil. That being said, I always use detergent oil just because I think it keeps the engine internals cleaner between changes.
Kevin, I found a good cutaway drawing, and your comment makes good sense. I am thinking the oil just never got changed enough, and I am probably lucky the former owner didn't just run it dry!
It's probably because before you got it somebody pulled the cover, wiped it out, and then you or the seller dumped in a fresh quart of oil at the front filler without running it.
Dang, the old wipe it out and put in a fresh quart trick!
Is there a way to see if the factory internal oil line is clogged?
At idle, remove one of the bolts on the front of the dipper tray. If you get a steady stream of oil there, your oil line is working.