This is the original link to this project..
This is the 2017 link to this never ending project...
and the saga continues...May there be light at the end of this tunnel.
Finally getting some paint on some things. The winter has been so cold and with zero humidity. The past two days it warmed up and I was able to do some spraying.
looks good Don what color is the body
You're one step closer Don.
Looking very nice Don. That will make a happy customer
Spencer, the owner wants it maroon or as close to the original "red" he can get. I'm stepping back when it comes to choosing the paint. The stuff he's looking at is in the $800.00 per gallon range. Its hard to be comfortable dealing with expensive paint...
Don what type of paint do you normally use.
I can't wait to see all three of our Fordors parked in a row. Black, Green, Maroon.
Bill, the black on this car is said to be the "blackest" paint you can get. Its DelFleet polyurethane code base 9000 single stage. I like it for sanding and cut and polish. It REALLY is a pitch black color. I also like how it covers and lays down, makes for a little easier job. But, I'm no expert on paint or painting cars. I'm sure others will have a different opinion, and that's ok.
I have always used PPG single stage paints. Base coat clear coat hasn't come to be with me yet.
I'd be willing to add a fourth car to the line up. Four Fordors has a nice ring to it, doesn't it?
Eric, What color is your Fordor? Just wondering as I have a '27 Fordor that is a light colored maroon, kind of a wine color. I don't like it and think the paint supplier mixed it wrong, but I'm stuck with it now.
We're in the process of installing a rebuilt engine and new upholstery on it now. You can see a picture of our Fordor on my profile picture.
Eric, do you think our forefathers would have foreseen four Fordor Fords at the forthcoming festival?
Don that is looking great. Looking forward to more photos.
I used the color code in the encyclopedia for Windsor Maroon. http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/P-R.htm Yes the PPG paint does run about $800.00 per gallon but it is single stage. You can see the color on my profile page.
John Z, that color is Fantastic! I had a difficult time deciding between maroon and green for ours.
I should clarify that I'm using the Delfleet black on the interior trim pieces and other smalls. The body will be painted with PPG Concept DCC 51068 Windsor Maroon. The fenders and splash aprons will be Concept DCC 9300. Both single stage acrylic urethane.
John Zibell, can you confirm the paint code number that you used? I'm assuming the PPG 51068 is the same color. I would appreciate any help you can give me on it. Thx.
With the paint still wet, this is what we got...
What a beauty.
Doing some wet sanding and buffing. This color is weird and changes with the amount of light on it.
The body is beauTiful but I don't think the doors and windows will hold up very well in bad weather.
Denny welcome back!! I missed your critiquing. This setup is perfect for winter drives. It gives one the full experience of Michigan in the winter time.
Color/finish looks great Don !!
Looks very nice. Several Concept colors seems to suffer from dramatic color shift. Some dark blues can look purple in different lighting conditions. I did a fender respray on a very old medium blue job that was probably synthetic enamel and while the Concept could be made to match in one lighting scenario, it couldn't be made to match every scenario.
Nobody makes a blacker black, though. Most other blacks look brown when put up next to it.
Thx for the kind words guys. Walter I agree completely on the Concept paint. It really can be deceiving from any angle. I used a black epoxy primer before laying down the maroon and I actually have to take a bright light to every square centimeter to see if I missed a spot. But this paint is so much easier to work with than any others I've tried. It wet sands in less than 1/4 the time of others and buffs out to a deep rich luster. So far I'm sold on it but I guess that's why it costs so much.
That's just beautiful Don!
And people might wonder why I'd like to paint my 18 Runabout maroon. :-)
Final fitting of the doors...so far so good. Knock-knock on the wood.
Looking very nice!
Ny dad's car is a black sedan with yellow wheels and the car gas been around since 1952. Dad bought the car in pieces for the princely sum oc $50. He painted it black with yellow wheels. The interior is largely original though it is pretty tacky now. Lets try to get the Fordors together for a photo.
Oh, one other thing. My dads car originality was dark green with a straw stripe.
I will try to get better quality pictures of this beast. Eric a few years ago I was told by a knowledgeable source that there were only about 6 or 7 Fordors in Michigan in various condition. There seems to be a bit of a surge of Fordors lately. It would be neat to see as many as we can muster in one spot. I have also been told by those that know that they are the most difficult to restore. I agree that they can be a bit of a challenge but I feel its just part of the game. The fact that you just don't see many says its important to keep them alive for the historical value. There is a guy in Grayling Mi with the identical story as yours. His Dad rides with him every time he takes it out.
I suspect there may be more than that Don. I know someone in Big Rapids who owns two, one being a Canadian car. He is often a volunteer at Gilmore and could probably be persuaded to bring one or both cars down there. I like the idea of getting a bunch of them together. Personally, while my Touring cars are both great Ts, the Fordors are better from an ergonomic perspective and are more formal looking.
I have to say your paint work looks really excellent on this car. I see what Kieth means. I think darker is better.
Darker is better...yeah to look at. But its a real bugger to wet sand and cut and polish. It seems to change shades with different angles of light. I agree that there are most likely many Fordors hidden away.
With 5 Fordors at Gilmore, we should have T-shirts made.
Well, if you get bored now that the body's nearing completion, I have a fordor in pieces that needs assembly! Come out to Massachusetts and relive your history!!!
Seeing how this is my third Fordor revival, I feel I'm reliving my history in a time loop...but thanks anyway Chris.
I was at Gilmore last evening and think I may have gotten a commitment from a 6th car! I like the T shirt idea.
A little better camera...
Making some progress on this ole gal. Interior is in and this morning the top went on her. Going good so far. Have to wait for the rain gutters to arrive.
Get'n the seats done. This is one of the fun things to do.
What a neat idea a built in potty chair so you don't have to stop .
Yeah Denny just don't tailgate...
That talent of yours turns many of us 'green with envy'.... Lookin' real nice!
Take Care; Behave; Stay Warm (and)
Thank you Marv, how is the rehabilitation coming along? Got the rear backrest finished today.
And the "Love sofa" is done...
Thanks for asking, Don. It's probably gonna be another few months before 'feeling safe' about testing my limits.... I've resorted to a maintenance of "practicing my putz" in the meantime.
Take Care; Behave; Stay Warm (and)
-BTW- "Keep Breathing" too!
Thank you Keith, its in the fun stage when its actually showing some progress.
Marv, we know winter has a long way to go yet. Stay the course. Be glad it didn't effect the warm months. Stay safe my friend !!
Forecasters just raised tomorrow night's snow forecast from 3"...., now moved to 5"; wind gusts of 28 MPH. Have no worry - We'll be sending it over by you! Isn't it nice to be such a sharing soul?
Take Care; Behave; Stay Warm (and)
That should make for some nice drifting Marv. However, for reasons unknown to me we get the least amount of snowfall in the state. Which can be a bummer, I enjoy a good blizzard and also enjoy plowing the snow with my Cub Cadet. Besides, how can you truly appreciate the seasons if they didn't give you a challenge now and then. Its kinda like standing on the edge of Lake Michigan (in Menominee)feeling the summer breeze and taking in that gorgeous turquoise Green Bay waters. Life has its rewards...
Take some time to stop up in Mackinac! (Just listen to the non-native pronunciations!)
BTW - Before the Fordor's upholstery - Is that the silver RustBullet as an interior sealer?
Lookin Great on that interior.. JD
Gotta add my "Looking great!" also.
Yeah, Marv, take advantage of the weather, and give that healing the time it needs.
As for the weather? Here on the Western slopes in the lower foothills of the Sierra Mountains? Just a week ago (last Monday in fact), we had about two inches of snow! Basically shut down the whole town. I live amongst wimps.
Got the rain gutters installed. Those things are always fun...NOT !
Long time lurker first time poster, testing on your thread, looking great Don
Well, welcome to the forum Mr Newman!! The credit is yours on this one. I'm painting the hood today and then the fenders and such next week. Should be ready to assemble very soon.
Sealing the rain gutters and the welting on the top. This is using the Loctite PL-S30 Roof and flashing sealant. I feel its a perfect polyurethane to use for this purpose. It dries to a almost identical look as the cobra grain and welt. It will stick to pretty much anything. It also cleans up with Mineral Spirits. I love it !!
Time to wet sand the hood....
Wonderful to see.
Ooo La La. Car porn! I love it.
Hi Don, well now that is great progress and looking gooood! Iíll have to get over and check it out in person. Keep having FUN. Joe
Looks beautiful, but I have a question on the closed car roofs; Was hide-em welt originally used, or was "fold-over" welt used? My original rain gutters on my '26 Tudor fit against fold-down much better than hide-em, and I think the fold over provides better protection from water getting into the welting.
I researched this same question nearly 30 years ago when I restored our Canadian built Fordor and came up with ( WIRE WELT ) as the correct trim for the front and rear. It blends with the rain gutter insert that covers the fixings on the gutter.
Best regards, John Page, Australia.
David, both the gutter and welting have no real sealing capability as far as I'm concerned. The method I've been using is to run a bead of sealant under the cobra grain. I then stretch and staple the cobra grain (SS staples) down. This hopefully keeps the water from wicking up the backside of the cobra grain and causing the wood to get and remain wet. I then run a bead of sealant over the tacks and mount the gutter base to the rails. Then after snapping on the gutter I run a bead of sealant along the top of the gutter to prevent water from getting trapped behind the gutter. I do this procedure for the welting also. The welting is a bit of a bugger to do because it tends to press against the top while you are running the sealant along it. So I end up scraping the excess and forcing it down the backside of the welting. Then with some Mineral Spirits I clean it up. This makes for a messy and somewhat miserable job so its best to tape off along the bottom of the top to keep the mess off the body. The result is the top is stretched tight and its held by both the staples and the adhesive sealant. The welting is floating between the sealant and the cobra grain and the cobra grain is floating between the sealant and the wood. Its just my way of doing it and others may have a better way, and are welcome to express their method.
(Message edited by dbooth on March 13, 2018)
Don, where do you get the stainless steel staples? Thanks, Dave
Dave, Home Depot has them in stock normally. They ain't cheap tho..
The more I see of this thread the more eager I get to see this car in person.
Well come on up for a visit Eric. I should have it for another month anyway. After that it will be gone down the road. The owner does plan to do many tours with it and may eventually do the Gilmore thing.
Great work on this beauty, I can't wait to see it when it's finished.
Thanks Don. Dave
Don, what size staples do you use? I'm looking at 5/8"L. x 1/4" W. stainless steel staples for a small air nailer, those are the shortest that I can find. Seems to me those may be a bit long. What do you think? Should I go with shorter T-50 type? Thanks, Dave
Dave I have always used the T-50's. The best length for fresh Ash is 3/8". I also regulate the air pressure to the staple gun so the staples sit tight on the cobra grain but don't cut right thru it. Any longer than 3/8" seems to be difficult to sink in to the wood. But it all depends on the hardness of the wood itself. You may want to do some testing on that. I have used the 1/4" T-50's also along the sides. The 3/8" for the corners for added hold. But keep in mind the way I do the tops using the adhesive all around under the cobra grain gives a much broader hold to material, its not just the staples keeping it in place.
(Message edited by dbooth on March 14, 2018)
Did some painting today...
Beautiful! I think it's the only thing that has more shine then my head
Thanks again Don. I appreciate the information. Dave
Don, I have followed your threads for 2013 rebuild of 1927 Fordor. Nice work. I am beginning to restore a 26 doorposts and top. I am a newbie at this. Bought a top kit from Utah. Can I tack the top together using the door old posts as a guide before I actually do the door posts?
Hank thank you. I can tell you how I do things. When working with a top kit it must be realized that it is a close but no cigar. The top begins at the front windshield header. The header has the width that will allow you to work off from. Then you can work your way back from there. Using clamps is the best way to go. The A pillars are connected to the header. The B pillars have a tenons that fits into the top side rails. The female hole (mortise) may or may not need to be enlarged or moved in some way in order to get the B pillar positioned correctly. Once the top rail is sitting down on the B pillar then the C and D pillar can be positioned and clamped. This will give you the ability to temp mount the doors and check the fit for the B pillar. Now its a whole different ballgame if you have new un-drilled wood. The hinges would have to be positioned correctly at the same time. The tenon and mortise would need to be located correctly. Also you need to do both sides fitting the doors, pillars and top rail. Everything must be fitted correctly and marked to your satisfaction before any permanent fixing goes on. It requires a whole lot of clamps and a balance act to get it right. Once you feel the doors are correct and pillars are where you want them the task of putting them together all at the same time. The A, B, C and D pillars all have tenons that the top rails sit down on. NOW, once you work your way back to the C and D pillars you may have to pull them inward to get the shape of the rear of the body right. I hope this makes sense because it really is a complicated thing to try to explain. You can always PM me and we will exchange phone numbers and have a talk.
Keep up the good work.
Wish I had the time and money to do that.
I would love to fully restore my t.
Thanks Christian, I appreciate it. And yes it is all time and money.
It was so nice of you to take that car all apart again just to show them how to do the roof.
Well Denny, its really all I have to do. Its getting to be a looonnnggg winter~