Does anybody have the dimensions between the bows for a 1923 Runabout? Trying to erect the bow so I can start installing the pads, webbing and fabric. Covered them in drill and vinyl (front one) today, now just need to know the distances between the bows. Cant find any info or pictures with dimensions on it.
Hi Martin, I just finished adding new side tack strips to my 24 Roadster top irons so I'm a few steps behind you. I have a post I had marked in my book marks that has good pictures but not sure of the distance. Here is the link,
Found elsewhere on the forum:
/This is the only thing I have, hope it helps
Mark, great info, I'll have to measure the bows and make sure we're dealing with a 23's bows. Also your windshield looks taller than mine does too...I wonder if the one on this car is for a 26 or 27.
The other thing I need is the distance between the bows once they're up like in you photo...setting the correct distance betwixt them I think is crucial to having a good result. The overhang distance I think is supposed to be 1.25 or so.
First off this kit came with the car and it was made by Cartouch...the instructions are a bit vague too, but I suppose that Classtique or Cartouch both install about the same and look pretty much the same when done.
Also did you put in the strain relief webbing from the rear bow to the seat back? Didn't see it in any of your photos. My 22 has a 1 inch wide web strap that has a friction buckle on it...this car didn't have anything like that, but I've noticed that Lang's sells them also for the 23 as well (hope they're not on a bloody "D" ring, there's no place to hook one of those on this car...also makes the strap too short..I had to replace the lower strap for just that reason). This kit came with 4 sets of strap...2 longer for the front, center and rear bows and 2 shorter for the rear bow to the seat back. But good thing you mention all that stretching of the top deck to meet the rear curtain...I wouldn't of thought of that. Your top looks really good too...not sure I'll go for side curtains though, they seem more of a hassle than they're worth.
John, the drawing you posted is for a 2 man top...this car has a 1 man top, their geometry isn't the same. Wish I could find a drawing like that one but for the 1 man top, that would solve everything...seems to me I had one, but then it was on that drive that went kaput.
Martin, if you have a one man top, the front bow attaches to the tops of the windshield posts, so the only variable is the angle of the rear bow.
I set mine so that a plumb bob hung from the top of the rear bow fell 1 inch behind the back of the body. Then I checked the total height of the car to make sure that I could drive it in and out of the garage with the top up!
Play around with the position of the rear bow and pin some material in place of the rear curtain to find a rear curtain angle that pleases you.
Check to be sure that your top kit has enough material to fit the bows in their final position!
Yes, I installed the kit strain relief webbing, the proper side to side position of the webbing is important and will be called out in the top kit instructions.
Please take some pictures of your top in the mockup stage so that we can see it.
One other thing - when you attach the rear curtain, be mindful of how high or low you position it so that the back corners of the main top line up with the notches of the rear curtain.
In retrospect, I hung my rear curtain a bit too low, which required a lot of stretching of the rear of the top to get the corners to line up with the rear curtain notches.
At the time of that top installation post, I thought that my car was a '23 because that's what it said on the title. I found out later that it is a '24 model, built in January 1924.