I will have to replace the muffler on the pickup project and it has not been run or used much. Not rusted,just falling apart. what is with these things? And also,it has a weird oval like exit. How do you put a tail pipe on it? I don't want exhaust going up or onto the body after I go thru all this trouble to make it nice.
i am honestly thinking of putting a different type muffler on the thing.Something like a small tractor muffler. My TT is on it's 4th muffler since I finished it in 05. They just fall apart.
Tractor Supply has a muffler that works fine, with a tail pipe.
Seems like it is a AC-1 for about $35, but you will have to measure to be sure.
AutoZone also has one, probably not in their store, but on their website.
I had a J. C. Whitney glasspack straight through on my T for quite a while.
The mufflers supplied by the vendors are bolted together with a threaded rod at the rear. I like to put a few tack welds around the edges and they won't fall apart. I don't notice exhaust inside, but all my T's are open cars so get plenty of ventilation.
Model T's didn't have a tail pipe from about 1915 or so on.
I will check out the tractor supply locally.thanks!
Look into an Ford 8 N tractor exhaust. Looks to me you could switch it around end to end and have a nice tail pipe. TS has those also.
Some T parts suppliers carry a muffler with tail pipe to replace that style. They even have a built in hanger.
Are the tractor mufflers at TS quieter than the stock T take apart or replacement sealed muffler sold today?
I like the idea of a tail pipe to get the heat and smoke away from the wood body.I am doing something also that some may not think is good but I am putting exhaust wrap on the pipe,at least the front couple feet to keep heat off the floor boards and fuel line and such.
Back firing is causing my muffler to come apart, so I will address that before I put a new muffler of any kind on it. I know I was wrestling with a issue on my F350 once and blew out both brand new mufflers. My ears rang for a couple days. I got phone calls from the neighbors asking if I was ok.
Mack -- The Ford tractor muffler which works well is part no. FO-11. They cost around $20. You'll want to have someone who can bend exhaust tubing make you a short tail pipe so the exhaust doesn't come out right at the spring.
Bough 6 dia can muffler 1.5 in and outlets
Just weld a tab to bolt it to the frame
It was around $22 all welded and galvanised
I have original Ford mufflers on all of my T's. I never have problems with any of them.
A tip for keeping your muffler round, and together... never switch from BAT to MAG at high RPM. I know from experience.
Ha .... yes, I've always used a take-apart type muffler on my 2 model T Fords over the years. They work fine. Though I have exploded two in 37 years of driving a T. The first time was because my foot happened to catch the key on a coil box mounted switch and turn off the ignition while I was driving. When I reached down to turn it back on again .. kaboom!
I learned to keep the key in the switch upside down to keep it out of the way after that. I wonder how many T drivers back in the era did that. Was it ever suggested in the period literature or is it a modern technique for idiots with big feet like me?
I never thought about inverting the key when I had that style switch - but I'll bet someone was clever enough to figure it out pretty early on. The design wasn't intended to do that, since the "bat/mag" inscription is at the bottom, and it's not an option on earlier switches.
I cut a section out of a tail pipe from a Mack truck to replace the stove pipe in my muffler, no problems since. As far as exhaust gas getting into vehicles, the US Army found it was a problem in 1918 when the assumed it was caused by carbon monoxide seeping through the hot steel of the exhaust heaters. It was actually caused by the exhaust moving up through the wood slatted floor into the back of the M1917 ambulances, resulting in a few deaths. The solution was to drill 13 one inch diameter holes in the front of the body and in the tail gate.