Yep,I have spent purty much all day trying to fix the ignition switch on my pickup project. i think part of the muffler problem is when the t is running the vibration is shaking the switch and making it backfire. So I had a kit that would not fit the 1 in the TT but i could put it in this switch. So I took everything apart, polished the brass,nickle gone, and put all this stuff together and wired it up. Still slop in the Key portion of the thing. The part the key fits in moves side to side alot as in it can switch it off and on nearly.This aint right of course. The parts all look nice, no cracks,no signs I can see of wear but it is shakey and while the thing is running you can take your finger and wiggle the key and SPUT SPIT SPUT KAPLOOY.
So is it breaking down to I need to get a new assembly instead of trying to repair older switches?
Mack - Your other thread,...."Mufflers, what is it with these things?
I think THIS thread pretty well answers why your muffler is falling apart! It's not "falling apart"! You're blowing it apart every time the faulty ignition switch looses contact by the vibration! You'd do well to avoid replacing the muffler until you get the ignition switch problem solved, but then you know that, right?
Mack, I had the very same thing with my tab mounted switch. When I turned the key from Battery to Magneto it could catch causing a momentary pause in current .... and once it caused the muffler to explode.
I took everything in the switch apart and rebuilt both the fiber disc (replaced the worn brass contacts with screw-in inserts) ... and rebuilt the key way including replacing the four small “wafers” and finding a less worn #68 key. I flattened the fiber disc and coated it with polyurethane and when I reclamped it with the four housing tabs I gave those a good wrap with a small hammer. The switch works great now ... no hesitation.
Harold,it came to me today for sure as it went kaplooy,not long after I posted the question
Mark, I had that issue with the switch on the TT being loose. This problem is the actual piece of pot metal that has the tumblers in it. It is loose both side to side and in and out.And this is on 2 switches,not just 1.I had a second 1 that I had a key for thanks to a club member and it does the same thing.
I found 4 tiny tabs down inside that seemed to be part of a metal trim ring around the pot metal piece with the tumblers in it, and I taped them with a punch and hammer but that didn't help. In other words,the little round thing that has 55 or 70 on it is really loose.
That is what I am looking to understand.I messed for a good while today and got it back together only to have it do the same thing.
Sounds like you may need a new tumbler assembly. See page 138 in Lang's catalogue. Or maybe you just need to pry out the contacts on the back of the small rotating disk so they make better contact with the backing plate. And speaking of the backing plate, is it flat? Sometimes they warp and you need to sand them flat.
(Message edited by steve_jelf_parkerfield_ks on January 15, 2018)
Some people sand the back plate to remove any warp.
That plate has dimples on the inside to hold the switch position and they just about disappear from the sanding operation.
I use a small rounded ball carbide Dremel tool in my drill press to put them back and hold the selected switch position.
The drill press table also allows the switch back to lay flat for even dimples, when I set the lock that limits the travel of the drill.
I hydrated the disc and clamped it between two steel plates until flat. Posted the pictures in December. The top plate was filed to allow relief areas where the brass contacts are on the disc. This procedure reformed the fiber disc to be flat and maintained the original dimples. Once flat and dry, I sealed the disc with sanding sealer then polyurethane.
ok tumbler assembly,now it makes sense,thanks Steve.
I put a new kit in the switch.But I did sand the other 1 that I used to assemble a another spare switch.I can see how the dimples would get gone.Thanks folks.
Now to deal with the nice big blow out on my 12.4 x 24 kubota tractor tire! 300 dollar problem.
probably have to buy 2 tires to keep the tractor level.
There are switch assemblies on ebay all the time. Why not just get another? I prefer the pin type switch backs, so it is unnecessary to bend the tabs to get them apart.
There's one on e-bay now for $680, heck of a deal! jb
New switch ordered from Langs. I was going to get a tumbler assembly but they are on back order.So I will get the new switch in this pickup project and later get the tumbler and repair this old switch for the speedster project. I just don't want a simple switch to beat me!
Well new switch is in and working. It can go past "on" in battery position but once "On" it does not shake around and cut the engine off. Hopefully this will fix the issue for a while.
I did learn something. I bought a new amp meter and put it in the old switch assembly monday.Took it back out when I ordered the new switch. Well, be careful, those tabs don't seem to be good but for 1 install. a couple broke off.
The 12 volt electronic regulator is installed and working correctly.So for the first time in my life I have a T that can keep it's own little battery charged.
Mack, a small layer of 5 Minute epoxy glue around the inside edge will hold that ammeter in place for years.
You can add a small O ring first and glue everything together.
You may want to check the accuracy of the meter first, by reversing the leads and then noting an equal needle swing in both directions when turning on the head lights.
look on ebay for the tumbler and 2 keys. Bob has them listed;
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MODEL-T-FORD-IGNITION-SWITCH-TUMBLER-AND-KEY-SET-CHRIST MAS-SALE/152867459134?epid=26009452825&hash=item23979c503e:g:WY4AAOSwdJ9aNC1n&vx p=mtr
I had it backards the first time i hooked it up and when i got it right I could tell it went the same amount both ways.
Just glad to get it back together.