Ok, This may be a stupid question that has been answered before...but hey I'm lazy and thought if you guys could tell me, I'd be miles ahead.
Right now I've torqued the head bolts to 45 ftlbs (did it in 3 steps and yes I used Copper Coat on the gasket)...so is 45 the right torque or should I go higher like 50 ftlbs? Keep in mind my head is a 1914 low head.
I'd appreciate an answer, so I can button my car up and get her on the road...there's a car show on Saturday at the Automobile Driving Museum in El Segundo, they're celebrating 110th Anniversary of the Model T Ford and have asked local clubs to bring their cars and attend. I missed out on the HME for the reasons that I've now fixed (hopefully) and I don't want to miss this.
45 should be good enough esp the softer early blocks. This is a low compression engine, even if you factor the little tiny increase in compression ratio from the low head and runs mostly under 1500 rpm more like in the 1400 rpm tops.
Remember ! head and other bolts should be oiled in the threads BEFORE you torque them down. Otherwise you can get friction in the threads giving you a falsely high reading.
Run the engine for a couple heat cycles (short runs) then re-torque. I usually back off each head bolt 1/8 turn then reset to the desired torque. You will find that more than 1/8th turn is required to get there. The reason for backing off is that sometimes the initial friction resistance is such that you don't get any rotation if you just set your wrench and attempt to torque.
Mark, I should've mentioned that my engine is a 1924, in a 1922 car and the head is 1914 low head...sooo, is 45 good enough or should I pull to 50?
Did the lubrication thing to the threads, in that the threads of the bolts were coated with grease, hope that works as well as oil in the holes.
John, hadn't thought of that, but that's a good idea, thanks.
I NEVER torque T head bolts to more than 45.
I have stripped the thread out of the block at 50.
Just re-torque after running and cooling. Repeat until the bolts won't turn to reach 45 anymore.
No no no! Don't do it to 50 unless you're really really sure the block will handle it or you might just find the bolts will spin freely in the holes. Trust me. I've helicoiled or thread inserted every block I've run, after torquing...
Best bet is to use the wrench sold with the car, it give just enough leverage. It's the only one I use on the head. 45 is enough for any stock engine.
Don't the book say "the strength of 1 arm"?
Depends on who's arm I would think.And in my case which arm.
Since when did this repeated torquing become a thing? You want to tell someone to strip out head bolts? Do it to your own car.. Torque to 45 when installing the gasket. Run the engine until it heats up to normal temp then turn it off and when it's stone cold re-torque to 45 and leave it alone !! You keep pulling those bolts down you'll be sorry. It's not done in the industry so don't push it here because it's wrong.
I do as Charlie says -- re-torque once, then leave it alone. I've never had a problem with a head gasket done that way.
Are you using stainless steel head bolts?
I always heard that oiling/lubing threads was a big NoNo. I agree with Aaron on 45 lb torque. Re torque with hot engine w/iron head. Another thing I read here was 50lbs with dry bolts , 45 if lubed.
Along with good surface preparation, and new gasket coated with CopperKote, I have always used high temp anti-seize compound on had bolt threads. Cast iron I would retorque 3 times and aluminum 4. I always use new head bolts along with chasing an cleaning the threads in the block first. Never had an issue or a leak.