Mr. Bonehead with the Ball Cap

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2018: Mr. Bonehead with the Ball Cap
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Bourgeois on Saturday, January 20, 2018 - 06:43 pm:

While trying to fix an oil leak. It seems that I just can't do it on the first try.
Here is the ball cap.
The question is replace it with the bearing type that I pulled out. Or try to replace it with the stock type?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Bourgeois on Saturday, January 20, 2018 - 07:53 pm:

one more question.
Is the one I broke this one from Langs?

Ball Bearing Universal ball cap, Must machine transmission


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kenneth W DeLong on Sunday, January 21, 2018 - 09:34 am:

After breaking a crankshaft a bad unsealed ball bearing was found.In truth i can't say it broke my crankshaft or not but i'm very sure it did not help anything.The rods and mains were all good except for the 4'th ball bearing !! Oil is cheap.Bud.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Williams, Humboldt TN on Sunday, January 21, 2018 - 09:55 am:

I am currently replacing my bearing type 4th main with a newly rebuilt Babbitt 4th main from Gene French. Can't keep the tail shaft from spinning in the bearing type. Had 0.010 clearance.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting, Clare, Iowa on Monday, January 22, 2018 - 10:15 pm:

Somebody fit it wrong, what ever they used for clearance, I bet it was wrong. A ball cap bearing fit should be about .000-50. Any bigger, it will wallow.

Steve, that ball cap has to large of steel holding the ball bearing in. Your Picture,the right side looking at it was the side that was pointed down. It also looks like the drive shaft tube ball did not have any clearance to clear the bearing holder. When the outer edge came in contact with the end, no room to pass, and the drive shaft tube pried against the bearing holder, and split the ball cap.

Compare your bearing holder, to mine.

Herm.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Tuesday, January 23, 2018 - 04:37 am:

Herm - I guess I shouldn't be ashamed to show my ignorance,.....so I have to ask,.....what does .000-50 mean? Is that 5 thousandths?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A. Golden on Tuesday, January 23, 2018 - 08:01 am:

I just sold a correct original rebabbitted ball cap to a guy that had one like that one, with a good ball bearing yet, but a broken aluminum ball cap case assembly.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith, Lomita, California on Tuesday, January 23, 2018 - 09:41 am:

When I restored my '25, I installed a NOS ball cap.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting, Clare, Iowa on Tuesday, January 23, 2018 - 12:27 pm:

Mr. Harold, that would be 1/2 Thousandths.

That's alright Harold, contrary to belief, when I was born, I didn't know S*%$.

I done 3 engines where the owners bought, and brought the parts, and each of those got the Aluminum ball bearing ball cap. This was all in a years time. You could see the ball bearing was not seated all the way down on one side, so I put them on a expanding mandrel. with the bearing running true, the ball cap flange had a 1/4 wobble in it. The next two also had the same thing, they were junk. Aluminum is just to soft to do that job.

But, the reason for the wobble is when they pressed in the bearing, it sheared off the soft Aluminum ahead of the bearing, so it could not seat properly.

There is always a reason for a failure, and in this case the reason seams to be the ball bearing ball cap quality. But you can't say bearing ball caps won't work, any more then you can say that Babbitt is no good, from a bad Babbitt job. We have been making these since the early 70's, and haven't had a bad one yet. We only sell to the machine shop list we have now, and have had for years.

Herm.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Tuesday, January 23, 2018 - 03:21 pm:

Ahh,.....half a thousandth! Thank you for the clarification,....harold.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Bourgeois on Tuesday, January 23, 2018 - 03:44 pm:

I will provide better pictures tonight.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Pat Kelly Montana on Tuesday, January 23, 2018 - 07:15 pm:

Steve, just a dumb question. Has the ball on the drive line been cut? I've put two of these in and both required the ball be cut. Mine are running real good.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Bourgeois on Tuesday, January 23, 2018 - 07:38 pm:

Pat, I confused. What is the ball you’re talking about?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Bourgeois on Tuesday, January 23, 2018 - 09:22 pm:

I measured the ID of the bearing, exactly 1.5 in.
Here is the ball cap before I removed it. Notice the crack before I did any work. Now I am wondering when it cracked?

Here is another shot closer to the bearing.

Another from the other side.


It looks like the bearing is a little off center.
Could be just my eyes.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Tuesday, January 23, 2018 - 09:32 pm:

As suggested earlier, get an original type babbited unit from Gene French. Turn the oil hole to the side so it will get oil but not too much.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Tuesday, January 23, 2018 - 09:38 pm:

Steve, it could be bit off centre in the casting and still be OK, as long as the machining has been properly done.

It is good practice when installing bushings/bearings to stop pressing them home just a tad short of their final resting place. Then you can blow out any swarf created as the bearing is being pushed in. Once that has been done the bush/bearing can be properly pressed home. This applies to T's when seating kingpin and triple gear bushes.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Pat Kelly Montana on Tuesday, January 23, 2018 - 11:02 pm:

Steve, here are the instructions for the one I used.

http://www.texastparts.com/mm5/manuals/T3369-BB.pdf


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Bourgeois on Thursday, January 25, 2018 - 07:50 am:

Pat, Thank you for the instructions.
Here are a couple of pictures of the shaft.
I bought my self a post Christmas present.
These where taken with the endoscope.
They show a definite shoulder of how the shaft was milled.
Am I forced into getting another Ball bearing ball cap?



Here is the second one.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Thursday, January 25, 2018 - 10:43 am:

Either that or replace the shaft.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem S.E. Michigan on Thursday, January 25, 2018 - 10:45 am:

Steve,

I would absolutely NOT use another one like that. Fit an original style, sized for your output shaft, or get one of Herm's, as he understands what's important as far as clearance and alignment.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem S.E. Michigan on Thursday, January 25, 2018 - 10:47 am:

By the way, here is the real "Mr. Bonehead with the ball cap"


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